Iain's 20XE Trackday Nova

[scott.parker]

Luke it quite clearly Say's on the box camber/or Caster.

[AlexW]

Depends what the setup is on the car. Novas, and infact most vauxhalls it will adjust the camber.

[Iain]

Okay my confusion about the bolts is no more. Instruction video on the bolts here helps: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4Rf0szJEj4 I thought the tabbed washer was supposed to be turned to adjust the camber, but you actually adjust the bolt head, doh!

Here's some pics of how they affect the hub-to-strut angle for those interested in the bolts.

Tab outwards for positive camber:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/641.JPG

Tab inwards for negative camber (well, as inwards as I can set it without hitting that lump on the shock). See how the bolt head is sitting much further inwards now?

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/642.JPG

Here is the angle of the hub to the strut when it is full positive camber:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/643.JPG

And at full negative camber, you can clearly see the top of the hub is angled further in to the strut:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/644.JPG

[scott.parker]

I believe my Leda coilovers have these on the front, i think i should investigate, as one of my wheels (cant remember the side) is slightly more on the piss then they other.

[Benn]

Looks like the work quite well.

[djbrowney]

where did you get the bolts from buddy ??? :thumb:

[Iain]

They're from LMF Vauxhall: http://www.lmfvauxhall.co.uk/

[djbrowney]

cheers buddy

[Iain]

Topmounts were looking a bit sorry for themselves so they're now bling and polished lol Before on right, during on left:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/645.JPG

Done:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/646.JPG

Wire brushed and sanded down the front coilover:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/647.JPG

A few coats of Hammerite black smooth and they look nice:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/648.JPG

Rears were in a similar state. They have rusted, but most of the brown you see is copper grease (I thought it would be a good idea to spray this over the threads, but it just seemed to catch muck and make them go manky!

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/649.JPG

So these were stripped down and sanded back also:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/650.JPG

Having trouble getting paint to stay on these, seems to flake/scratch off easily. Must be something to do with them being zinc plated from the factory. Is there a special zinc-plated metal primer I can use?

[Benn]

Christ tops mounts have come up great, really good job.

Using a etch primer should help the paint stick.

[Adam]

Benn... I mean Iain, the polished top mounts are a bit Blingy!!! :cool:

[novalovingned]

Nice work :)

[Iain]

Thanks all.

More painting and getting parts ready the last few nights. Front coilovers came out very well:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/651.JPG

Rear coilover is having the same Hammerite smooth black treatment:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/652.JPG

Ran out of space so made a DIY vice with some molegrips lol Rear strut body needed etch primer for the Hammerite to bond:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/653.JPG

Also figured the backing plates to my drums should get the powdercoat treatment. So a quick guide to stripping down a drum!

Start with drum, pop off centre cap and undo bearing nut in the middle:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/654.JPG

Prise off drum to leave this (minus stub axle that simply comes out once the 4 bolts are undone):

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/655.JPG

Two of these to twist free to remove the shoes. On:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/656.JPG

Twisted off:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/657.JPG

Prise this spring from under the retaining bit:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/658.JPG

And off comes the rear shoes complete with sawn off handbrake cable:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/659.JPG

10mm bolt on the rear to remove the brake cylinder:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/660.JPG

Remains of 2 drums:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/661.JPG

The backing plate on it's own ready for cleaning and painting/powdercoating:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/662.JPG

[Benn]

Hope you'll remember how they go back together...lol

knew Etch primer would help.



Benn... I mean Iain, the polished top mounts are a bit Blingy!!! :cool:

Hahaha he asked me how to do i tho...lol

[Iain]

Yeah etch sticks on nice so hopefully the Hammerite won't flake! Pics are mainly for my reference for rebuilding them tbh! They're not too complicated though.

It's true I asked for polishing tips, Benn is the bling guru lol

[Benn]

*Does a lil wave*

[Spudly]

Will the paint on the body/threads of the coilovers not hinder the adjustment and be scraped off as you assemble them?

[MK999]

Will the paint on the body/threads of the coilovers not hinder the adjustment and be scraped off as you assemble them?

1. yes
2. That'd fix the first problem lol

[AlexW]

Depends how tight the threads are.

Looking good as per usual iain.

[jbird2009]

can anybody tell me if the dash out of this car would fit in a sr? cheers

[L14MNP]

Yep. Any Nova dash will fit any Nova.

[Iain]

It's just a mk2 dash, so would be a straight swap for a mk2 or a small conversion for a mk1.

Yeah the paint may come off when adjusting the height, I plan to set the correct height and give them a blow over with some more paint to stop them rusting. Many other coilovers (Spax RSX?) come painted down the threads anyway as far as I know.

[AlexW]

That is indeed true iain, my RSX's are painted on the threads, id suggest putting copper grease roughly where you want the ride height, might stop it from seizing.

[Iain]

Well the coilovers are finished, just need to remember to copper grease the adjusters before refitting.

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/663.JPG

Back to the engine for now while I find some grease for the steering rack. Cleaning up the block with engine degreaser and wire wheel on a drill:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/664.JPG

And clean!

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/665.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/666.JPG

Engine is an early 20XE which should hopefully make it easier to MOT without a cat:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/667.JPG

Cleaned behind the belt cover and inside the waterpump hole:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/668.JPG

Damage from my heavy handed approach at removing the waterpump :( Shouldn't affect the seal of the pump though:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/669.JPG

Also dropped off my internals off at Autosprint. Having the flywheel lightened, bottom end balanced and the rod caps modified for ARP bolts:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/670.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/671.JPG

[General Baxter]

oi come say hi, when you pick them up seeing as you have to drive past you hobo lol

[MK999]

I'd just run some copper slip over them to stop the rust.

[Iain]

Ok Mr Baxter I'll shout when I'm picking them up, you'd better be no more than a 0.5 mile detour though!

I'll copper slip the final resting place of the mounts when I know the ride height, I applied it to the whole shock last time and if anything it helped them gather dirt and go horrible quicker!

[scott.parker]

So how early dose the engine have to be to have no number part to the code? as mines from an 89 mk2 Astra 16v and has full code?

Progress looks good, and good choice on using auto sprint.

Scott

[Iain]

Was told mine is out of an '89 mk2 Astra GTE too.

[scott.parker]

Odd... as i know mine came from the car..

When i acquired the car..
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/3527/ashtray1bp0.jpg

4 years later! lol (was last year?)

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/990/20032008223smallqj7.jpg

[Adam]

Blocks cleaned up well.

[Benn]

Should still have a engine number tho...

Anless its a replacement engine...

[Adam]

It has got a engine number, pretty sure i can see the start of it in the corner of the pic. A '1' or 'I'

[scott.parker]

Ah i see more of the code in this pic, though mines laid out different to it, mine is all close together etc.

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/664.JPG

[Iain]

Sorry thought you were referring to the C in front of 20XE Scott! Yeah there's an engine number after the 20XE stamps, didn't really fancy putting the numbers up though!

There's also something stamped where you'd find the code/number on a smallblock, not sure what that is!

[Benn]

Why? no one can steal your numberz..lol

[The Simps]

Good to see its all moving along at a good pace.

[Iain]

Finished installing my Quickrack internals today (started on the rack in posts here (http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1357001&postcount=734) and here (http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1359080&postcount=743), pretty easy when following Haynes.

Rack casing all clean inside from the old grease:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/672.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/673.JPG

Rang Quaife and they recommended lithium based grease like you'd use for CV joints etc, so armed with this:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/674.JPG

I greased the inside of the casing and the rack teeth and slotted it in:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/675.JPG

Then tapped in the (new) bearing with the pinion in place (note, as per Haynes, the slotted side needs to face this way):

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/676.JPG

Seal back in place:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/677.JPG

Two new tie rods to go on:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/678.JPG

All getting the Hammerite black treatment:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/679.JPG

Also got a tin of Smooth Red!

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/680.JPG

Which I'll be applying to the block as follows. Just half of the back done for now to make sure it goes on ok and that it's clean enough:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/681.JPG

[Paul]

its all a bit 'pretty'

[General Baxter]

all that weight saving your doing, then you go and paint the block lol

[Iain]

Yeah cos a 20XE block is gonna be a featherweight without paint isn't it lol

[AlexW]

its all a bit 'pretty'

Makes up for the driver :p

Good as always iain, I presume the hammerite will take the heat?

[Iain]

Everywhere I've read says Hammerite is fine to paint the block, yep.

[AlexW]

Cool, Il be doing mine in white.

[brucer]

good work iain, will be a top car when done.

and yeah AW06 it will take the heat, think white will get a bit grubby if you dont clean it daily!!

[scott.parker]

Nice update mate.

[peester]

wow all going well so far.. on a roll.

[Iain]

Rod ends fitted to my quickrack using the world's biggest 32mm spanner:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/682.JPG

And tapped down over the flat part to stop them unscrewing (also used some threadlock as I'm paranoid). The eagle eyed among you will notice I forgot the plastic piece that fits before this, so I had to take both off and redo them :cry:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/683.JPG

Next issue, my new gators are utter crap. They screw up when the rod is fully 'in':

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/684.JPG

And crease inwards when they're fully 'out'.

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/685.JPG

So they must be the wrong size or something?! Blah.

[bmw156]

nice work there mate.

i cheated on my quick rack and bought one already done lol

[AlexW]

Rack gators arnt GM? Common problem.

[Adam]

Mine aint GM, but mine are fine.

[AlexW]

I certainly know a lot of them aint good, most are too rubbery lol.

[Benn]

Mine arnt either and are fine..

[scott.parker]

Yeah the gaiters and CV boots are hit and miss, as some none GM work, others are just utter ****! as i found out when after PV and Billing i had to change the CV boot, in total it was change three times, the last one was for a Cav SRi, it's sorted now..

Still good progress mate, keep going.

Scott

[Spudly]

Would that boot problem not be due to the same problem you had with the rack when your were building it up, should it not go that far when its actually on the car or should i just hush as i know less than nothing?

[Benn]

No Spud, i'd say where its a soft rubber one it doesn't fold up (like a spring) as it should do when closed/open.

[Spudly]

Furry muff just thought id suggest that as i know he was confuddled whilst building it up lol


Im sure he will devise a way of sorting it in a simple yet clever way as he does with all the other problems that arise:thumb:

[AlexW]

Furry muff just thought id suggest that as i know he was confuddled whilst building it up lol


Im sure he will devise a way of sorting it in a simple yet clever way as he does with all the other problems that arise:thumb:

Yer changing them lol

[Iain]

Im sure he will devise a way of sorting it in a simple yet clever way as he does with all the other problems that arise:thumb:

Gonna fit the ones that were originally fitted to the rack lol It was a new/refurb rack a couple of months before stripping the car down anyway so they're not that old!

[craig green]

Nice build. Looking forward to seeing more.

[Iain]

Rack gator problems are because on fully out there's a vacuum (well, not enough air) and on fully in there's trapped air causing it to bend outwards. I assume air should be able to pass between both ends, which means I've put too much grease in to the rack and it'll be getting stripped down fully and rebuilt - may need new arms too as they've been hammered over the flat part of the rack a couple of times now...

Also the engine block wasn't clean enough for the Hammerite so all that has been removed.

[Benn]

Dont think air should be able to move thru it, as i filled mine with a grease gun.

[brucer]

some rack gaitors have a vent hole. before you clip the gaitors down it might be woth lifting up the small end to let any vacuum/pressure out. if that fails im out of answers as it obviously shouldnt be doing that.

[Iain]

Cheers brucer, maybe that's why my previous racks were fine then as they all had a slight slit in the gator! Looked like a cut/hole but maybe the rack fitter did it to fix the problems I was having.

See here for the thread about the problem: http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133728

Aaaanyway, that problem is fixed now. I have rebuilt my rack in to a spare housing I have and all is well, it's currently getting a lick of paint and then it's done! No pics as it looks exactly the same. lol

I have wasted the weekend fixing my Volvo but did manage to pop to Autosprint to collect my parts:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/686.JPG

Lightened flywheel:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/687.JPG

Lots of material has been removed from the back, looking at my 'before' pic a few pages earlier:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/688.JPG

Crank has had some material taken off to balance up:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/689.JPG

Clutch cover plate has had some holes drilled to also balance up:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/690.JPG

And has been stamped '1 4':

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/691.JPG

To match up with the markings on the flywheel:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/692.JPG

He also modified my conrods as requested so I can fit these:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/693.JPG

[Benn]

What's the flywheel weigh?

[Iain]

Not had it off the crank to weigh it yet, will let you know.

[Benn]

Just to made sure its not tolight..

[scott.parker]

Benjamin the guy knows his stuff, dont worry. :-)

[peester]

looks pretty handy, this mr autosprint.

[Iain]

Yeah he's very helpful and keen to offer advice so the engine is built properly.

The flywheel weighs just over 5kg by the way Benn. Can't be more accurate on my bathroom scales, sorry!

[Benn]

Ah cool cool, its all good then. Was just the pic looks like alots been taken off the front that's all...

[Al3x]

very impressive build there matey, has given me a kick up the bum to get mine under way.
stripping my shell ready for welding but quick question... once seams are stitched, how do you go about protecting?
seam sealer then hammerite then stonechip then hammerite again?

top job on yours though :)

[Iain]

Cheers Al3x, I'm not sure if I'm in the best position to recommend protection as I haven't seen if mine stands up to stones/road use yet tbh!

Here's a thread where I asked about underbody protection stuff where I got a few recommendations: http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119668

What I did though... After welding the seams underneath (and grinding down to look a bit nicer) I applied UPOL Etch primer, then UPOL seam sealer, then Hammerite grey Anti-rust primer, then quite a few coats of Hammerite White Stone Chip Shield and finally a few coats of Hammerite White Smooth. Pics for this are here: http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114446&page=57

[Al3x]

think that will be a good solid coating lol
im not up to date on body and protection work... sbut what is Etch primer, i kept reading in the thread and sounds good shiz.

[Iain]

From what I was told... You apply it to bare metal and apparently it "etches" in to the metal instead of just sitting on the surface. I guess it helps protect better and forms a better surface for the other layers.

[Al3x]

hmmmm learn summin new everyday lol

[Iain]

Just to prove I haven't been sitting around doing nothing!

Have been cleaning down the insides of my engine block

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/694.JPG

Looking a bit better, there was lots of solid grime in the corners here:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/695.JPG

Pistons and stuff soaking in paraffin to help them clean up easier:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/696.JPG

Still struggling to get this oil gallery plug out after snapping a screw extractor in it, I think it'll end up getting drilled and tapped but going to seek professional advice. (Thread on issue: http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133945 )

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/697.JPG

Quickrack finally finished, see how perfect those gators are now!

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/698.JPG

And prepping for when I get the car painted, fuel tank has been paint strippered:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/699.JPG

And taken back to bare metal/surface rust:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/700.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/701.JPG

I think I'm going to paint it and the fuel filler neck red to add a splash of colour to the underside! lol

[novalovingned]

Nice work. love reading this thread as it inspires me to run out to the garage and work on mine :)

[Adam]

Good work.

Did you drill right through that gallery bolt????

[draper]

good mincing lionel

[Iain]

Yeah went through the bolt to get a good grip with the screw extractor, so it definitely needs coming out. I'll sort it one way or another...

[Benn]

You and them damn bolts.

[Al3x]

any updates fella? ive started on mine now. reading through your wip thread gives me the push to do mine and im really enjoying it :D

[Iain]

Sorry not really any picture-worthy updates at the moment. Been painting the fuel tank, stripping down some driveshafts, boring stuff like that.

I have ordered some new polycarb windows from ACW Motorsport Plastics (http://acwmotorsportplastics.co.uk), with 'road-safe' front sliders like this:
http://acwmotorsportplastics.co.uk/images/DSC00058-web.jpg

Talked to my painter today who will hopefully be free end of next week to take the shell for a glacier white respray in engine bay, interior and exterior.

[draper]

is kev doing the paint lionel ?

[Iain]

Yep.

[Benn]

Road safe sliders? What makes then unsafe?

[Iain]

The 4 small holes instead of one large one means you can't put your arm through. Bit safer if you're leaving it ungaraged hopefully!

[scott.parker]

Fact normal one you get your arm in!

lol as he said!

[peester]

top stuff, as usual iain.. no let-up yet.

[scott.parker]

top stuff, as usual iain.. no let-up yet.

You keep saying this....is there something Mr Iain is keeping secret?? lol

[The Simps]

Good ole vauxhall 10L mate?

[Iain]

No LETs planned yet lol Yeah nice and simple white, how boring.

[The Simps]

white is :cool:

[Spudly]

white is :cool:



+Rep:thumb:

[burgo]

sheep - white!!!!

[Iain]

Poor progress as of late.

+10bhp fuel tank

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/702.JPG

Fuel filler neck off my old car was better condition than my current one:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/703.JPG

Cleaned:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/704.JPG

Also badass red:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/705.JPG

Started modding my rear mount for the F20, following THIS (http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90103), cut it out like this:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/706.JPG

However the top seems to sit 'out' so it won't bolt up nicely... Has anybody had this problem before? Is it maybe touching the 'flick out' strengthening to stop it sitting flat?

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/707.JPG

Also planning my braided brake lines. So far I have this planned, check the awesome diagram out lol Planning a T-piece on the rear beam so I only need one bulkhead fitting through the boot floor, a rear bias valve inside the car and possibly Goodridge flexis on the fronts, unless anybody can think of a good way to secure the brake line in to the original car bracket.

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/708.JPG

[Iain]

Two parcels arrived today. Got my new windows through, very good quality, placed the fronts against the fronts and they match for size perfectly. I went for split front windows in case I don't like the sliders and want to revert to glass:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/709.JPG

Also got some new bottom arms, supposedly genuine Vauxhall ones from VauxhallCarParts (http://www.vauxhall-car-parts.co.uk/), but there's nothing on them to say that's true.

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/710.JPG

In two minds whether I should plate the bottom of them or not. In my mind I can't see how they'd twist during use as the tiebar will keep them a set distance away from the crossmember?

[Spudly]

Good stuff as always Iain, i would definately box the bottom arms as it wont take you long, wont add much extra weight and although the tiebars should hold it in place there will always be chassis and rubber bush flexing so boxing them will go a way towards minimising this:thumb:

[scott.parker]

Good progress mate.

[Adam]

Dont bother plating them imo.


Looking good, I would just have another play with the grinder to get those spacer plates sitting flatter if you aint happy with them.

[Iain]

Rear mount is sorted, it seems to straighten itself properly when bolted to the box. Don't want to start grinding various bits off in the hope they sit flatter in case I weaken it too much.

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/711.JPG

Spuddy, still not convinced the arms need boxing out, I'll do some more research.

[Benn]

Rear mounts fine as i've been saying on msn.

I dont like plated lower arms.

[deanwilko]

good progress looks like the same person will be painting both our cars lol

[Adam]

Bottom arms are meant to bend for a reason....
To save your chassis.....

[Iain]

good progress looks like the same person will be painting both our cars lol

Yeah? Cool. I'm hoping to take mine down in the next week or two but depends how busy he is.

[The Simps]

Was gonna say mate - nowt wrong with my guide! lol

Adam, corsa's are plated as standard.

Iainel - if there's any possiility you might fit a let or f28 to this car in the future you may aswell paint them now.

[deanwilko]

Yeah? Cool. I'm hoping to take mine down in the next week or two but depends how busy he is.

same here lol

[Iain]

Yeah in your guide it all looked like it lined up perfectly off the gearbox.

I was talking to Phil from JNC who worked with a lot of Novas and Corsas, and he said he had seen a lot of Corsas written off because of the plated lower arm. Kinda puts me off as I don't want to be scared to drive it fast.

What am I painting in preparation for a LET? lol


same here lol

Ahh! Me first please? :cry:

[Adam]

Yup, the now strong bottom arm bends the next weakest thing should you have a date with a kerb........ (i.e. the chassis/arm mount)

[Benn]

Adam, corsa's are plated as standard.


But not fully, they have cut out bits where they crumple...

[Mike]

But not fully, they have cut out bits where they crumple...

Aye, 3 big cirlces in the plate on them.

[The Simps]

I meant plate! lol

tbh, if your going to crash a nova, with all the stitch welding and the cage you'e done something is gonna have to crumple and it'll probably be the tree.

[Iain]

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/708.JPG

Here's how this pans out in parts! Most of the part numbers are correct on that diagram, except I needed two 1/8 to M10x1 converters for the bias valve.

How it'll all be laid out:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/712.JPG

This t-piece will be mounted on the rear beam:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/713.JPG

Wilwood bias valve to fit in the rear line, to hopefully improve front/rear biasing as I'm not sure what using the Corsa setup will do to it:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/714.JPG

[Benn]

Should have said, bar the little bends i have all that. Will be interested to see if your bias leeks like mine did...

[Mazz]

That little lot looks very cool and very expensive!

[brucer]

this is a stupid question, but as i dont know i best ask...

on the flexy braided brake hose, do you have to make up the ends so you can have the correct cut lengths or are they all pre-made??

[Iain]

Yep they are cool, although I'm going to have to change the rear drum connections for banjos for coilover clearance I think...

The short flexis you get from Goodridge (seen at the top of my first pic) are pre-made to fit straight on. The rest of the brake lines you make yourself, you can see the brake line next to the fittings.

Found this guide for cutting them and fitting the ends: http://www.oldbritts.com/brake_line.html

[brucer]

top man. +rep

[Adam]

Theres a lot of connections to leak!!! :p lol lol

[Iain]

Shut up Adam, always the pessimist. It's the bare minimum amount of connections I could use since I needed bulkhead fittings for running it internally.

Here's the plan for the brake lines routes, shout now if there's a problem before I make them up!

Enters the cabin through the battery tray, with the bias valve tucked out of the way here:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/715.JPG

Then across the floor to the rear "bulkhead" fitting like this:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/716.JPG

Or like this (although prefer the above):

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/717.JPG

Found the Corsa servo sits better rotated like this:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/718.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/719.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/720.JPG

Should be enough room for a reservoir cap without needing to raise the bonnet:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/721.JPG

Flexi can go to here to meet the internal line:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/722.JPG

[scott.parker]

Just a quick Q, what you doing with Fuel lines? internal also? as if so thats allot of lines all on the one side.

My brake lines are on the left (as sat in car) and fuel on right

Scott

[Iain]

Nope just going for rubber hose under the car I think - don't fancy fuel lines internal.

Wiring loom runs down the left from what I remember? There's holes for the sill plate screws that I can use to p-clip the brake lines down so it should be tidy.

[burgo]

if you like a minimalist look then the sills are hollow ;)

[Mike]

Id run them central up the trans tunnel if it were me Ian.

For a couple of reason infact.

[MK999]

For a couple of reason infact.

The suspense is killing me! lol

[Prey]

Sorry dude but - lol! - I now just have an image of you crouched in the engine bay, lowering the bonnet down onto yourself so you could take that master cylinder picture!

[Iain]

lol I put the bonnet on and crawled under the crossmember to take a look/get a picture.

Come on then Mike, explain yourself! The exhaust tunnel has various obstacles to route around - shifter, handbrake, harness eyebolts, extra wide bucket seats that sit very close to the tunnel. That + trying to find somewhere suitable for the bias valve is why I chose the drivers sill.

[Adam]

I love winding you up!! lol lol

Id run the brake lines as you are now, its the simplest route for where the MC is located etc.

[draper]

lol I put the bonnet on and crawled under the crossmember to take a look/get a picture.

Come on then Mike, explain yourself! The exhaust tunnel has various obstacles to route around - shifter, handbrake, harness eyebolts, extra wide bucket seats that sit very close to the tunnel. That + trying to find somewhere suitable for the bias valve is why I chose the drivers sill.

i know why ;)

[Iain]

You know nothing.

I realise that in a side impact there's a chance the brake line may split and leak, but as far I can see it's the best route for it to take where it won't get in the way.

[andrew1988]

You know nothing.

I realise that in a side impact there's a chance the brake line may split and leak, but as far I can see it's the best route for it to take where it won't get in the way.

To be fair if a side impact is hard enough to split the brake lines then i dont think you'd need the brakes from then on lol

[Mike]

You know nothing.

I realise that in a side impact there's a chance the brake line may split and leak, but as far I can see it's the best route for it to take where it won't get in the way.

They dont get in the way if you run them down the trans tunnel thought. And you can very easily add a fly off handbrake if you want, of if you ever sell it an the new owner wants too.

You see, your spending all this time doing things to your car, which with only a few more bolt on parts you could use for road rallying. So when you come to sell it (if ever) you coud potentially fetch a tidy sum for it if its done to a tidy standard :thumb:

[Iain]

Yes I wouldn't be concerned about the braking efficiency of my banana shaped Nova lol It's more the fluid leaking everywhere - I assume brake fluid is flammable?

Good call on the hydraulic handbrake, I was looking in to those actually. Exhaust tunnel it is! Will just have to route it down the passenger side of it and try and avoid everything on the way.

[Mike]

Yes I wouldn't be concerned about the braking efficiency of my banana shaped Nova lol It's more the fluid leaking everywhere - I assume brake fluid is flammable?

Correct. And corrosive, an can blind you. Tastes okish though.

[L14MNP]

i know why ;)
Do tell chap ;)

[vaughanmc]

Any more updates Iain ?

[Iain]

Nope :( Finding it hard to make progress in this cold.

[Prey]

Boo hoo its cold so I can't work on my car.....

..... Neither can I - you painted it yet?

[Iain]

Nope.

[burgo]

man up and get it done

[peester]

best to keep from getting ill this time of year..

[Benn]

best to keep from getting ill this time of year..

Why? And just cause your out in the cold doesn't mean you'll get ill.

[brucer]

i was out working on my nova on sat morn, was minus 3 when i got to the car, was 0.5deg c when i left just after lunch. you just got to climatise yourself to it. im not ill from it either...

[burgo]

it doesnt snow germs lol

[Iain]

Ok so I've started on my brake lines, cut down the braided hose to size with a hacksaw and tape to stop it fraying:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/723.JPG

Here's all the correct lengths for making up the rear line/s:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/724.JPG

Placed the nut on, frayed out the braid, and pushed on the olive until it's sitting flush on the end of the plastic hose:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/725.JPG

Here's where the problem occurs. When I tighten on the second end the whole line wants to twist with the nut...

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/726.JPG

...So I end up with this, when I need them both pointing the same direction.

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/727.JPG

Is there any fix for this or do I need to redesign my brake lines to so none have a 90 deg at either end?

[Iain]

The solution I came up with as to how to get the 90 degrees pointing in a direction of my choice...

Tightened the nut over the fitting and marked where the back of the 90 deg is on the nut. Marked where this should be on the brake line:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/728.JPG

Placed the nut over and frayed the end/fitted the olive:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/729.JPG

Brought the nut down over the hose and ensured the red marks lined up and clamped it in a vice:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/730.JPG

Then tightened the 90 deg fitting in to the nut - the nut and brake line didn't twist and it left me with it pointing the right direction.

Finished making the rest of the brake lines for the rear bar the bias valve:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/731.JPG

[Iain]

Still struggling to get this oil gallery plug out after snapping a screw extractor in it, I think it'll end up getting drilled and tapped but going to seek professional advice. (Thread on issue: http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133945 )

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/697.JPG
Sorted the oil gallery bolt now too. We tried welding a bolt to it but this ended up shearing off, so the hole has now been welded up completely. Maybe I should have listened to the "leave it alone" advice but meh, live and learn!

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/732.JPG

Cheers to Tom Reid off here for a hand with this.

[Benn]

At least its sorted.

[Adam]

How did he weld that??? Stick welder??

[Iain]

Just MIG...

[Benn]

Good work on the brake lines.

[Iain]

Sorted all my brake lines now, just need some banjos for the rear drums. Lots of pics as I appreciate feedback or concerns with how I've done it!

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/733.JPG

Replaced the shaped metal (originally for the brake pedal?) with a flat piece so the t-piece sits further back and so makes more room in the bay. Will make a tidy one before refitting:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/734.JPG

Each side coming off the t-piece utilise the standard bracket and mate to Goodridge flexis:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/735.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/736.JPG

Runs down the centre inside:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/737.JPG

And under the gear shifter (will make a small hole for it to pass through when fitting the shifter):

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/738.JPG

Single flexi to the rear beam:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/739.JPG

And uses the original tabs on the beam:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/740.JPG

Just not sure where to mount my bias valve now though. Thinking either here:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/741.JPG

Or here:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/742.JPG

Suggestions?

[Adam]

Looking good. Id mount it by the handbrake

[Mazz]

Yep, definately by the handbrake. Lines look good Iain..

[Iain]

Cheers, yeah they look nice, whether they work/leak is another matter though. lol

[Spudly]

Another vote of by the handbrake from me as you will want it accessible from your seat rather than having to test your bias amount then get out and lean in the back from the boot and adjust it, more good looking work as always lionel keep it up:thumb:

[Adam]

As said before, thats a LOT of joins to leak :p lol

Fingers crossed they'll be sound though :)

[MK999]

As spudly said :thumb: Lines look good, something I quite fancy doing on the yellow one as I want to go with corsa set up too...

[Joe Richardson]

Ive just looked at all 91 pages lol


Top work mate,honestly !!!!!!!!!!!! :thumb:

[peester]

91 pages :-o
quality rather than quantity an' all.

[Joe Richardson]

91 pages :-o

aye mate,was worth it though :thumb:

[Iain]

lol Cheers, yeah lots of pages and views! Trying to keep a detailed diary to look back on tho! Been off the road for about 10 months now, hopefully get it built before it's been off a year. :eek:

[scott.parker]

Another vote for by the hand brake mate, the lines look really good mate, but could you of had a them join straight to the connectors where they meet on the front good ridge, and at the rear beam, this would get rid of the 90 degree bends, and have far less joins to leak? or is there a reason for them? i just though you could put a connector strain to the line, no need for bends?? (hope you understand me?)

Scott

[scott.parker]

This pic shows the bends im on about, after the floor and just before the beam, are they really needed, has more joins that could leak etc..

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/739.JPG

Plus looking at that the wheels are on the ground there, you might want to add some more length in the line between the boot/bench floor and the beam as you might end up with it not having enough ply in it when jacking the car etc, just an idea?

Scott

[Iain]

You'd still need a fitting to join the brake line to the Goodridge pipe though? So there's no way of getting around one there? The 90 degree ends are one fitting but allow swivel so the line won't twist when tightening them up.

That rear flexi is getting remade anyway as I twisted the braid slightly - how long I remake it will depend on what the full droop length of the rear coilovers are as it's currently on standard suspension. Cheers for pointing it out though. :)

[scott.parker]

You'd still need a fitting to join the brake line to the Goodridge pipe though? So there's no way of getting around one there? The 90 degree ends are one fitting but allow swivel so the line won't twist when tightening them up.

That rear flexi is getting remade anyway as I twisted the braid slightly - how long I remake it will depend on what the full droop length of the rear coilovers are as it's currently on standard suspension. Cheers for pointing it out though. :)

Ah i see, makes more sense now mate.

Yeah i gathered you would be fitting coilovers meaning less drop etc, but if you need to take them off means you will have to keep the beam fully supported as well ;)

just thinking, not putting your efforts down at all, as you have done a cracking job mate.

Scott

[Benn]

By the handbrake. Then you can adjust while driving.

The rear line where it enters the car is right in the water channel tho, you might find it leeks in..

[Iain]

Yeah cheers Scott, appreciate your comments. I think the standard rubber flexis on the rear aren't long enough to let the beam drop fully with no shocks anyway - but I'll measure it up properly and tailor the line to the new rear shocks anyway.

Benn, a washer and some sealer should hopefully stop it from leaking - I'm more worried about the Corsa servo mount holding water and I've found it's quite a watertrap! See: http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=137032

[burgo]

so long as youve sealered it it will be fine.

[sparkie1401]

nice work Ian, had a good read from about page 50 tonight, love the work on the corsa servo/pedal set up

really should have done this on mine but cant be arsed now

vote for "by the handbrake", adjustable when driving and just looks right

Guin waddled

[Iain]

To overcome the water drainage issue with the Corsa servo plate I grinded down the lip:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/743.JPG

And seam sealered it until it was flat:
[/URL]
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/744.JPG

So it'll hopefully drain down this side:

(http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/744.JPG)http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/745.JPG

Having a massive tidy up at the mo and found my old engine loom lol What a mess:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/746.JPG

Ooh a fresh uncut one in my old car!

(http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/746.JPG)http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/747.JPG

Out it comes:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/748.JPG

And stored on my garage roof to stop it getting tangled up:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/749.JPG

What's left of my old motor, almost ready for scrapping:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/750.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/751.JPG
[URL="http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/751.JPG"] (http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/749.JPG)

[Joe Richardson]

nice work :thumb:

[Benn]

Does the old shell have the plastic seat running covers?

Will the ground off side not mean the water will just pool and sit in the front where the lip is...

[Iain]

Benn will talk on messenger about parts!

I've made 4 little U shaped drainage holes along the front and side so it can drain out of the tray :)

[Iain]

Welded both sides with 150a welder on full power:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/515.JPG

While tinkering with the Corsa setup I got paranoid about my cut-n-shut pedal so I've beefed it up with two 3mm plates either side. Bit happier with it now!

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/752.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/753.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/754.JPG

[Paul]

as said before iain, your skills have come along way in the time youve been building this car, nice welding, and god progress keep it...

[Iain]

Cheers Paul, getting stuck in there is the best way to learn!

[Benn]

I agree with Paul.

[Adam]

Those two 3mil plates look heavy

[Iain]

They are, I picked up the brake pedal afterwards and was angry how heavy it was. Made up for it today though by cutting some material out of my fibreglass bonnet to clear my coilovers so all is well lol

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/755.JPG

Lots of room for the movement now:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/756.JPG

[Prey]

Crouching in engine bays again?

[AlexW]

That or he was bending over like he does a lot :p

[Benn]

Crouching in engine bays again?

Or hiding a dragon?

[peester]

no he deffo a tiger

grrr

[Iain]

That was an arm through the front panel this time lol

[Iain]

Today's delivery, Protec rosejointed tiebar brackets, will lower the tiebar bracket by roughly 2cm. :)

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/757.JPG

[Mazz]

They look very posh! Going all out on it aren't you :)

[Benn]

Wow they are tastey. How are they rose jointed?

[Iain]

With rosejoints? lol

[Mike]

Wow they are tastey. How are they rose jointed?

By a spherical rose joint. Which IMO is a far better way of R/Jing a gear selector compared to other particular long winded rose jointed efforts....(as oppose to a common threaded rose joint)

[Benn]

Spherical rose joint.. I have no clue how it works.. Any gen?

[Mike]

http://en.lily-bearing.com/admin/uploadpic/2008102710482367275.jpg

The 3 biggest ones. There very useful things.

[Benn]

Ah so are they attached together like a gyroball? So the inner can move in a left to right spin and the outer in a north to south spin...

[Mike]

Ah so are they attached together like a gyroball? So the inner can move in a left to right spin and the outer in a north to south spin...

Both the inner & outer sections can rotate 360 degree in any direction around each other basically.

[Iain]

Interestingly these bearings only move vertically and not side to side/twist.

[Benn]

Both the inner & outer sections can rotate 360 degree in any direction around each other basically.

Oh i get it a bit more now. Thank you.

Cant see why they need to be like that for the tie bar mounts tho.. As they only really move up and down...

[Mike]

I dont think theres anything else on the market that you'd be able to use though Benn. Its basically a spherical bearing or standard bush setup.

EDIT: If they only move one direction so to speak Iain, theyve had a pin put im them to "lock" them.

[L14MNP]

Should have shopped at Chris Astley Iain, then we wouldn't be having this discussion as you would never receive them! lol

More shiny things FTW.

[Mike]

True Limp, very true.

On there own there just a run of the mill spherical bearing, but obivously in this instance it becomes part of a rose jointed setup, therefore a RJ'd bearing. I know them by both names but im sure some do gooder will appear an correct me by calling them bearings lol

BTW, there the exact same thing thats fitted into competition top mounts.

[Benn]

I guess a bearing moving is better than rubber flex.

Do you have bearings in them? Or is it just interference fit kinda job?

[Mike]

Do you have bearings in them? Or is it just interference fit kinda job?

In after market snazzy top mounts you mean?

[Benn]

Sorry just in the rose joints. I know about the top mounts as i have some here for sale...

[Iain]

Couple of progress pics.

Servo took back to bare metal, etch primered, high build primered and gloss black (to get rid of that weird army green colour that would have suited the Count's track car!):

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/758.JPG

Pedals and supports painted with black Hammerite spray:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/759.JPG

And tiebar mounts done too (was going to powdercoat but didn't want to remove the rosejoints):

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/760.JPG

Turned my attention to the oil pump. Gears look ok, some slight wear around the edge but I assume this is normal? Waiting to hear back about some uprated steel gears anyway:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/761.JPG

Cleaned it up inside and out:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/762.JPG

Rocker cover was disgusting inside so has been attacked with paraffin:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/763.JPG

Fancied tinkering with the head, so had a looksy in Haynes for the valve stem diamater:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/764.JPG

And gave them all a quick measure with a micrometer top, middle and bottom. I think a couple of inlet valves are below 6.955mm at the bottom measurement so may think about replacing them together with the pitted ones:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/765.JPG

All of them were cleaned and remarked with their location

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/766.JPG

Started to lap them in with paste, anybody got any tips for creating a good seal between the tool and the valve face?

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/767.JPG

Getting there but needs a bit more work before the valve is perfectly smooth:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/768.JPG

Got a mate with some fancy tools who I am hopefully meeting tomorrow to check the block for ovality and give me a hand measuring the crank journals so I can start to rebuild the block (after a bit more cleaning and a hone).

As always, if I'm doing something wrong, tell me. lol

[Benn]

Nice work, servo looks great as do the pedals and bits.

[The Simps]

Paint work looks good. I hape lapping valves. I normally bribe my old man to do them for me! lol

[Iain]

I've done 2 and a half so far, the suction thing keeps moving around and coming off, grrr.

[Mazz]

I feel your pain :( 14 bent

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/mrmazz/Nova/Pic431Small.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/mrmazz/Nova/Pic450Small.jpg

[scott.parker]

These are from my engine blow up in 2004/5 bent valves smashed guides.. whoops.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6747/picture733r.jpg

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/2451/picture732.jpg

[Iain]

Are you trying to prepare me for when I mash my engine or something? lol All my valves are perfectly straight.

[chrisnovaturbo]

lick the suction pad it sticks better. just make sure is clean first lol

[Iain]

The valve face is clean and I gave it a little lick but it just slides around till it hits the edge and comes off. Maybe my technique needs improving lol

[dontliftdrift]

ive just read the whole thread! your making a good job keep it up :)

[Connor]

Coming on nice mate
will have to come see this at some stage :thumb:

[Iain]

dontliftdrift, 97 pages? You nutter lol

Connor you're welcome to come and have a look at my bare shell and a big pile of unfinished engine/suspension. :thumb:

[Connor]

you're welcome to come and have a look at my bare shell and a big pile of unfinished engine/suspension. :thumb:

Well it beats looking at nothing, its not like i have a lot to do up north lol

[Iain]

You could think about doing some work, I know that's an odd concept when at Uni though.... :p

[Prey]

Well it beats looking at nothing, its not like i have a lot to do up north lol

Have to meet in the middle mate - I need to go over and convinced him to paint it (and pick up that engine if you still need rid lionel?) lol

[Connor]

You could think about doing some work, I know that's an odd concept when at Uni though.... :p

MEHHH actually, i am good when it comes to work
already done all my work :p
But seriously if you need a hand
(not going to be a good hand but still a hand)
as it would be interesting to learn :thumb:
plus i make a meeeaan cuppa

[draper]

id say your cuppa was average actually connor, always room for improvement

[Connor]

id say your cuppa was average actually connor, always room for improvement

meh :p

[Iain]

Borrowed a mate's piston ring pliers

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/769.JPG

And removed the rings, snapped one in half to clean all the grooves in the pistons, so they're all clean now:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/770.JPG

Took the engine block to be honed and the crank to be machined, it's likely it'll need a regrind on the main journals as a minimum, the big ends may polish up ok.

Started mocking up the polycarbs on the front, windows fit in snug and just need 2 bolts along the bottom to keep them in solid:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/771.JPG

Off to visit the painter Scott Parker used for his yellow mk1 tomorrow so may be taking the car for paint there. :)

[peester]

ah polycarbs keeping the quarter-window

[Iain]

Yep got a polycarb triangle window to go in the front too. Downside is you still have a steel bar in the door, but at least I can revert back to winders if I find the sliders too annoying.

More crap news about the engine, yay! So inspecting my freshly cleaned lovely looking sump:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/772.JPG

I notice it's been welded before. Doesn't look a bad job, so no biggie:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/773.JPG

But then I see this next to it! Another crack around the bolt hole. It's also warped from overtightening so it's fit for the bin:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/774.JPG

Cleaned up all my bottom end and head caps

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/775.JPG

But noticed most of the caps have slight scoring on and aren't perfectly smooth. Hard to get a picture but they look like this:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/776.JPG

Is this normal? Or are they knackered? Haynes says a new head if they're worn :( Will inspect and measure up the cams later too.

[Connor]

Ohh Bad luck on your sump mate,
and the head caps, i can see the scoring
but dont know what to suggest
Have you tried bolting it up and measuring
play?

[Benn]

Looks like normal wear to me. On the sump. You get a lot of cracks like them in them as its only soft ally. I'd fit it, as the oil level will be down under that anyway.

[Iain]

Not sure how I could measure the play Connor, however I've just measured the cams up with a micrometer and they appear ok so will probably end up using this head and caps - most of them you can't feel the marks with your nail.

Sump is defo getting replaced Benn!

[scott.parker]

Hows my car looking? lol

[Iain]

Shiny lol

[scott.parker]

Is the pin stripe on yet?

[MK999]

light scoring is fine and to be expected, if you can feel your nail catching on it, replace :)

[Iain]

My nail catches on a couple, but you can't just replace a couple of caps can you...

[MK999]

My nail catches on a couple, but you can't just replace a couple of caps can you...

well you could, if only one or 2 is a problem, it'll be no different to a set being within factory tolerances but veeery slightly different... but if you're going to replace them you may as well do the lot.

[Iain]

Which means buying a complete new head.

[MK999]

Which means buying a complete new head.

Is it really bad enough to warrant that? Does you fingernail properly catch in it, or can you just feel it as you run it over?

[Iain]

Didn't say the scoring was bad enough to warrant buying a new head, I don't think it's too bad so will probably end up using this head and caps, but according to Haynes the caps are machined with the head and so cannot be swapped on their own - so if I was to replace them it would be a complete new head.

[Adam]

Looks like normal wear to me. On the sump. You get a lot of cracks like them in them as its only soft ally. I'd fit it, as the oil level will be down under that anyway.
My old sump cracked in same place as Iains and it absolutely pissed oil out

[MK999]

Didn't say the scoring was bad enough to warrant buying a new head, I don't think it's too bad so will probably end up using this head and caps, but according to Haynes the caps are machined with the head and so cannot be swapped on their own - so if I was to replace them it would be a complete new head.

Sounds likely, they're probably made in a similar way to conrods, machined and then snapped a long weak point or finely cut etc etc I wouldn't worry about it too much unless it really is badly scored up.

[Benn]

Oh really? I've seen 1 or 2 with cracks on them and they haven't gone all the way thru..

Changing the caps will be honing/boring a long where the cams runs. As the caps have to match the head..

[Adam]

Yeah, alloy being soft means the crack expands/contracts quite a lot.

[tom reid]

Iaiiain, if your worried about the caps, they will take a polish, and as for the sump, bring it over , I'll get it welded and if you still don't want it, I'll have it.

[Iain]

Cheers for the info Tomomomoom. I'll bring the sump over next time I see you.

[C2VXL]

iainel - Thanks for the advice earlier. Had a look through your thread. After reading page after page, i'm more and more amazed. Good work mate.

[Iain]

Finished cleaning my hydraulic followers by taking them apart and washing in paraffin. All clean now, just gotta find a way of drying them thoroughly before oiling again:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/777.JPG

...and that's it regarding the engine. The place doing the hone and crank regrind is taking the p*ss and still haven't sorted them.

Now, change in plan. Was going to get the car painted ASAP (although I've been saying that for about 2 months now lol) but I'm going to extend the rollcage a little bit. So studying the build manual and discussing options in THIS thread (http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140445) I'm going to do something like this:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/BuildManualRollcage.JPG

Marked out the holes for it here (gotta get a decent 40mm holesaw to drill it):

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/778.JPG

And worked out how I wanted it with masking tape:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/779.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/780.JPG

Then got a bit carried away and pondered these modifications while I'm at it: lol

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/781.JPG

I estimate about 5 metres of CDS for the front triangulation and a strut brace, and another 2.5 metres for the rear. Heavy heavy. :(

[draper]

Doooooo it lol

one of those bars looks familiar aian ;)

[peester]

crickey :-o
i guess whilst youre there now, u might as well

[draper]

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/780.JPG





looking at it again, id tag the diagonal to the inner wheel well the triangulate to the A post leg

[Benn]

For the bit that's does to two legs, go down to the tunnel, see Dj brownies cage..

[Mike]

For the bit that's does to two legs, go down to the tunnel, see Dj brownies cage..

Aye, tag him into the tunnel in (almost) a V shape. Im sure Burgos is done like this to?

I got some pics from my 106 to illustrate if needed tho lol

[draper]

lionel knows - he's seen a local lads cage that does that ;)