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Thread: whats the right way to set up cam/and dizzy timing

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mowgli View Post
    the e16se was designed to run on 4star, but could be adapted to unleaded.

    as both fuels were readily available at the time, the factory figures were for leaded 4 star fuel.
    the c16se was obviously designed for unleaded, as it had a cat.
    typical, I never know which engine code is which engine!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nailen View Post
    am pals with iain he uses seditas cars. i only want to know if anyone knows how many degrees or after my dizzy timing should be i found out how to set up the cam there the now
    Seditas had 3 attempts at setting up my mates Webbers on his MK2 Golf before he gave up and went elsewhere.

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    optimising the ign timing properly (and to some extent the cam timing) should be done on a dyno. Timing is generally advanced until there is no further increase in torque at a given load/rpm. setting up base timing and book figure for lift at TDC is a great starting point and probably 98% there...but its often finding that 2% that is the difference between a good engine and a great engine. Anything else is just assembled.

    base ignition timing figures should be the same, as is the method of adjustment, regardless of cam position. after each adjustment of the cam, the base timing should be re-set...or you will never know what gain/loss is from the cam and what is from the knock on effect of timing change.

    im interested in how the timing is set on the 1.6 inj. is there a feature to lock the map (at say 10deg) so that the trigger can be aligned dynamically to the crank with a strobe?

    with a sharp increase in timing below idle speed and a lot of retard after means that there isnt really a point where the map is 'steady' perhaps these primitive GM ECUs dont really use 'maps' ? i have never bothered with them.

    for this reason, TPS and idle speed have to be as the book to give a decent figure..or it will give you a false reading.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mowgli View Post
    the e16se was designed to run on 4star, but could be adapted to unleaded....
    by 'adapted' did they mean "simply have the local dealer twist the distributor forward by a ball-hair?

    i take it they all have hardened valve seats as recession has never really been a problem on even high mileage engines...even the OHV

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    the ohv can be leaded only, but all ohc engines run on unleaded iirc. the trick is to look for an asterix on the engine no on the block.
    i used an X reg(81/82) donor engine for my 1.2+1.3=1.4 and it ran brilliantly on unleaded

    the std way to time the e16se is to unplug the tps & short out the connections with split pins, thentime it to the mark with a strobe thenretard it a couple of degrees & test it to see if it runs right.... seriously... the main issue is that the same trigger in the dizzy is also the trigger for the injection, so timing is rather important. i've often thought of rigging up a 2nd trigger so i can time the injection differently, cos it would definitely run better if they were separate

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    same could be said for the SPI Corsa. it porbably would run better, but not worth the effort. the easiest way would be to put a 2 point trigger on the crank for the injection, and use the distributer purely for ign trigger. If the std engine is batch fire the gains would be minimal as theyre not really syncd to the valve openeing anyway. With each adjustment you would be offsetting the whole 'map' by the same amount so where you might get a gain at peak HP, you will loose out mid range and vice a versa.

    anyone who is after such gains would fit standalone management or find gains elsewhere.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Archie View Post
    Seditas had 3 attempts at setting up my mates Webbers on his MK2 Golf before he gave up and went elsewhere.
    seditas are ****e!! couldna set up ryans mk2 ither
    think it turned out be a fooked head in storries golf

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