Maybe something i would like to adress is what a lot of builds seem to ignore or just live with the drawbacks when it comes to suspension.
Using an existing suspension from a donor car, or in your case single seater, is a nice and easy way to make progress without inventing a whole new suspension design for ones application. In some cases this can work very well altough done without any knowledge and using the wrong type of suspension it can lead to all sorts of handling problems. In the end it comes down to the correlation between the front and the rear suspension which has to be setup differently for which layout one is going for.
Going for a double wishbone suspension is a very good move as it brings a lot of adjustability in case something isn't quiet as it should be. Cutting out a FWD suspension from a car and using it for RWD may work for daily and bit of sporty driving, but may be a huge gamble to work well for a track car that is being driven on the limit.
To avoid a lot of issues there is one key factor. The corrolation between the front and the rear roll center of the suspension which mostly is determined by the pickup points of the whishbones, outer ball joints and, also by the strut tower position for mcpherson type suspension.
A stock nova, as most FWD cars, has a higher roll center at the front and a lower roll center at the back. This helps to correctly shift weight when cornering. For a mid engine or rear engine car it should be the other way round, higher roll center at the back, lower at the front. In my case the weight distribution is 46/54, which fits nicely with a higher roll center for the heavier rear. Your rear roll center could possibly be just slightly above the front roll center as your weight distribution with a lighter motorcycle engine could be nearly 50/50 when finished.
I've gone through the pain of measuring all the pickup points on my car prior to start cutting up the chassis in order to find the front roll center and work out where the rear pickup point should in order to determine the correct location of the rear roll center
Here you can see what this looks like for my car. The blue line represents the connection between the two roll centers and the axis, around which, the car will try to rotate when cornering.
My advise here would be to measure the pickup points relative to each other and to the ground (the car needs to be on its own wheels for this) so you can weld in the rear suspension at the correct height for your application.
If you're willing to go through all this and have an analysis PM me.