Well, good Saturday afternoon to everyone!!!
Few bits of action today.
Split pins replaced with an idea most shamelessly stolen from Dar!!
So off to the local 4 wheel alignment place SE Tyres in Tunbridge Wells, up on the ramps, we all know the drill!!
All setup, calibrated then caster, balls bags too low, quick fix
I knew that the removable front bumper would come in useful and after everyone said it was pointless!!!!!
WOW, we've got issues!!!!!!
Alas, it was the left rear wheel sensor, it had dropped off the wheel, cos I took it with the 888's on it wasn't easy for the clamps to hold on, next time I'll need to take it on the rainsports, it'll help the clamps grip.
With some cable ties helping the clamps hold the gauge on, BOOM, we had some figures to work with
Quite pleased with the camber and castor, I simply set the bottom arms and tie bars to exactly the same length when I fitted, shell must be reasonably straight!!
Rather happy with the results, I know I could get more, I know it's not the best setup ever, but it feels really good and the max adjustment possible, whilst for some is amazing it possibly isn't the best set-up for me so, we're gonna see how this gets on!!
When I got home I had a look at the rear camber.
It's quite easy to fit the spacers, you look at the chart and see what you want to do.
in my case, rear left needed 0°.33' of camber and 0° toe in adjustment, found that on the chart and set the disc accordingly, punched the holes out, Robert's your fathers uncle.
Rear right needed a little more thinking about to try and match it to the rear left.
I needed to get camber from -0°.37' to -1°.45' or as close as possible, an addition of 1°.08' of negative camber.
Toe needed to go from 0°.15 to 0°.12 or as close as possible, a subtraction of 0°.03' of positive toe/toe in.
So looking at the sheet, I could add 1°.06 of negative camber getting me to 1°.43' of negative camber and I could add 0°.04' of negative toe which should get me to 0°.11' of poositive toe/toe in.
All bolted in, bolts torqued to 15% over specs as per Haynes manual and instructions from the spacers.
There we have it, just need to pop back to get it on the machine again to check we've gone the right way
Sure looks better, next up, secondary rear ARB and some rear beam bracing to prevent un-wanted toe.
Bedford Monday!!!!!
Edit to add
Had fun on the 888's in a torrential downpour, biblical downpour!!
Last edited by House; 30-07-16 at 09:24 PM.
So.................
Today we went to Bedford Autodrome GT Circuit. Massive track 3.8 miles!!!
Busy 88 cars signed on!!
Lots of road cars out for a fun day
Slicks were awesome, suspension settings near perfect, tyre temps were good, camber was near perfect, brake were crap.
Alcons maybe...................
That is all.
Happy for you, any Nova being used in anger is fine by me. My geo is quite different to your's but it's all personal preference.
What callipers, discs and pads are you using?
Thanks Craig, I was having a lot of problems getting the power down out of the low speed corner, especially when turning left, not sure why, Iain reported the same. So I don't know if that's a setup issue or the slicks being off.
As for brakes, hi-spec show calipers!! From their billet 4 range, with some sort of re-drilled ford cossie disc and CL RC6 pads.
what specifically about the brakes was "crap"?
RC6's are epic so thats not the problem
They worked early on, pedal travel got progressively more the hotter they got, at high speed the wheel wobble when braking was atrocious, when looking closer at the calipers, the pads have again worn at the top more than the bottom so they're now heavily angled almost like the top piston pushes more than the bottom.
The passenger side when looked at with the wheels off and the pedal pumped was flexing the disc and pushing it out, so it's almost like the outside set of Pistons weren't applying pressure to the disc, this would explain the wobble.
The passenger side is also the caliper that took all the heat when the wheel failed at Mallory so that may have knackered it.
Bottom line is I'm discovering that Hi-Spec for show, Alcon/AP for go, or stop in this case!!
Lo-Spec calipers are most definately NOT for use, at all
What may have happened is the fluid boiled (RC6's do dump heat into the caliper savagely) and either nailed the seals or caused a localised bubbly area so the inner pistons did their job and the outers didnt.
Also sounds like the discs may have uneven transfer layer now
for the "cheaps" test (becuase you spend too much ) you could lob on some 288's or something similar with RC5 or 6 pads (or even Mintex 1155's) then try again.