What's the pipe diameter on that exhaust?
Good work btw this is gonna be nice when done!
What's the pipe diameter on that exhaust?
Good work btw this is gonna be nice when done!
Cheers. As mentioned in my post, the exhaust system is 64mm (or 2.5").Originally Posted by Rob H
Okay, so time for a quick update, as some progress was made today. Engine is now finally in after a 7 hour stint, albeit not without some problems along the way which I'm optimistic about solving. This, it should be mentioned, was after a lot of f*#king around with various problems the weeks previous, namely redoing the timing belt due to a major cock-up by the person who found TDC and retarded the vernier pulley, and retarding the pulley 3.5 degrees on the Cam as opposed to the 7 degrees that it was set to.
The alternator was just fractionally touching the chassis leg recess, so have a couple of possible approaches to circumnavigate this, i.e., try fractionally adjusting the alternator bracket itself towards the block to bring the pulley away from the leg (and therefore finding a shorter belt); or have the pulley itself machined, effectively reducing its size. The other alternative would be to fit a Mk2 Astra GTE alternator, though this all depends on the difference in size between mine and the Mk2 pulley - I have a feeling there isn't much difference, but I'll see. Sorry I don't have pictures of the alternator issue - the two of us fitting it really were more concerned with getting on with it.
The other problem is the anti-roll bar touching the gearbox, which I had thought might be overcome by having some aluminium billet blocks machined as spacers and attaching them between the suspension arm and anti-roll bar, except fitting the anti-roll bar on the bottom of the suspension arm as opposed to the top of it. i fitted a HH tie-bar lowering kit on the cross-member, but feel there needs to be an equal drop (or slightly less) on the suspension arm. Any help/advice welcome if anyone has reason why this shouldn't be done!
Last edited by HouseAtreides; 14-11-15 at 04:16 PM.
Looks like the tiebars touching not just the arb. On an f28 I'm sure you space the back of the bar down on the arm too by spacer blocks. All looking minty mint under there.
Looking sweet. My xe inlet pulley is retarded 7', I thought that was the norm?
Cheers Scott. I was of the mind that, from everything I've read online, you retard the XE inlet pulley on a vernier Cam by 7 degrees, but that refers to crank degrees, not cam degrees. Therefore, 7 degrees on the crank would be 3.5 on the cam. Don't get me wrong, nothing touched when I turned the engine over by hand after being retarded 7 degrees on the cam, which is more or less equivalent to a full tooth; but you don't need to adjust it that much; only by about half a tooth. At least that was my understanding anyway. Pretty sure there is a Total Vauxhall article on this, and that was part of their conclusion.
Here's the TV link: http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk/files...OV76.tech_.pdf
Above all else, there is a certain logic to why you retard the inlet by 7 crank degrees and not cam degrees, simply because there would be almost no point to fitting a vernier pulley and then retarding it by a full tooth when you could do that on a standard pulley. The point of an adjustable vernier pulley is surely to enable thousandth of inches of adjustment.
Iain, you're spot on. I definitely need to space the back too, as you say, at the suspension arm, effectively switching the way the anti-roll bar mounts to the arm from the top to the bottom with some aluminium billet spacer blocks in between. I could only get one bolt in the front gearbox mount due to the anti-roll and tie bar being in the way, so still needs to come down a bit before both the holes on the gearbox mount line up with the rubber mount.
I've yet to fit the rear gearbox mount too, which, once I do, may or may not bring it up a bit at the rear once fixed in situ and off the anti-roll bar, as well as down and in-line with the front gearbox rubber mount. Though I will need to wait until I get aluminium spacer blocks, which should be within the week. This may also be what is causing a tiny bit of chaff of the alternator pulley on the chassis ... Well, at least that's what I'm hoping anyway.
And cheersSlowly getting there.
Tony
Last edited by HouseAtreides; 24-10-15 at 08:46 AM.
Manny things i like.
Love the you dropped the engine and box in from the top.
The Astra alt will be the same size. I machined my pulleys down on mine to give better clearance.
Tie bar wise, you want a spacer of about 25mm (atleast) on the arm end, to space them down.
Cars looking fantastic too.
All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one PepsiFar from suicidalStill I get them tendenciesBringing back them memories
That I really miss when I reminisce
yeah that makes sense nowI've retarded mine 3.5 marks on the cam pulley and it says on it each mark is equivalent to 2 degrees at the crank
I like that you like many things about it, Benn
Would be interesting to see how much you milled off the alternator pulley if you have any photos or can recall measurements etc,?
Re: the 25mm (minimum) tie bar spacers for the suspension arms - can you buy these ready made or is it just a case of buying aluminium block and making them up yourself?
I used these.
Which where made for spacing down ARB. I just had to redrill them. But they arnt off the shelf items.
*edit. Sadly i can't find any photos from when my alt was done. But both pulleys where shorten till they had maybe 1mm above the level of the belt and the main shaft was cut down by at least 5+mm.
All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one PepsiFar from suicidalStill I get them tendenciesBringing back them memories
That I really miss when I reminisce
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