Just want to double check that this is the correct way to wire in a kill switch to a car running carbs and no engine management? I have no idea when it comes to electrics so any help appreciated
Just want to double check that this is the correct way to wire in a kill switch to a car running carbs and no engine management? I have no idea when it comes to electrics so any help appreciated
are you running a car with radio & clock functions?
if so, then it needs wiring in with a few alterations to the loom to keep working memory.
the whole concept of competition type kill switches is to completely kill off engine function. so you could take the battery wire to the starter, & the coil wire, and any fuel pump wires & run them thru the switch thus it is also a useful immobiliser, & you keep the rest of the loom intact.
Thanks for the info, yes I want the switch to kill everything. I have nothing in the car the requires power when it's off and do intend on using the car for competition in the future so want it wiring in so it would pass scrutenering test.
i've just had a look at it on the holden website, yes, it is pretty much a correct wiring diagram, because it will kill off all the main circuits. it does look like you may need the services of an auto electrician to help you sort it out in a tidy & safe manner, because it will entail altering the fuse box wiring too.
Not to "overcomplicate things"
But, whenever I have fitted/seen fitted
They always kill the neutral, as no earth = no damage etc.
this one has 4 extra points on it. it is to ensure everything gets turned off....
think crash damage, heat, fire, this switch is a proper one, not something to stop pikeys nicking a dumper
Im sure the propper one is a remote cut off.Originally Posted by mowgli
One one the bonnet.
The new ones are done with a remote relay, and they knock everything off when the car is parked up, £240, but worth it
they have one inside to be operated by driver/co-driver and one on the scuttle panel to be operated by safety marshals. They are usually linked by a cableOriginally Posted by MattBrown
You should't be wiring anything else through the 4 spade connectors other than what is on the diagram. The switch is designed to not only cut off the coil feed but it also bleeds the residual current from the alternator through the resistor when you kill the switch (cheaper switches that just kill the battery will not kill the engine if you switch them off)
So long as you run the main +ve wire from the battery straight to the switch then it will cut off all other circuits anyway, once the resistor has done the job of shutting the engine down properly, and you shouldnt need to go near the fusebox eiter.
And to be fair, its a useless immobiliser as you can switch them on with a screwdriver, and the whole point of it is that its in plain view and easy to get at.
Oh yeah, and dont do what i did and wire the resistor back to front, it smokes like feck
I think you're thinkng of the onboard fire extinguisher.Originally Posted by mk1nova_rich