My XE nova on throttle bodies (Project 275+bhp)

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Originally Posted by Jonlem

It was run on a bench dyno at Joe Stevens prior to being fitted in the car, this is why I think something has gone tits up as it made something like 260hp there then 197 @ RS Tuning, knowing who mapped it initially I would be very surprised if the map was a issue and even if it was to lose over 60hp from a atmo engine is outrageous

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The sheet I got was 244bhp but I can't get it fixed how a 3" exhaust fitted to the type c as spec by SBD would lose so much power but the fact it did 200ft lb of torque didn't get me to concerned as I didn't want Tje build to end up pub figures

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Originally Posted by Jonlem

As you say it was all very last minute for you but you certainly want to set those up for the next time out. On 2 of the runs I saw I'd say it wasn't wheel spinning after 1st as the gearing really does seems very tall, it wants a different cwp in there if your just using the one straight out of a F20

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Yes I'm using the STD f20 final drive, again it was suggested that was the more practical way of doing it

You'll be able to tell by looking at the rod bearings if they've spun, which could mean the bolts weren't stretched correctly when being assembled or not run in enough before given the abuse; assuming the oil pressure never failed. Good luck with sorting it. If it's you rebuilding, once it's all back together take the time to turn it over to get the pressure up before firing it.

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Originally Posted by BRoadGhost

You'll be able to tell by looking at the rod bearings if they've spun, which could mean the bolts weren't stretched correctly when being assembled or not run in enough before given the abuse; assuming the oil pressure never failed. Good luck with sorting it. If it's you rebuilding, once it's all back together take the time to turn it over to get the pressure up before firing it.

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The pipe split on the main oil line so the top layer of the bearing is non existent really mate

I'm quite sure Giles had either a 2.5 or 2.75" Simpson system on his nigh on 270hp xe, 3" is turbo territory or maybe the much bigger 300+ engines.

Final drive is a tricky one but the best of the stock ones would be a F20 4x4 FD iirc but really you want to look towards something much closer which will keep the engine in the power all the time, I can't remember if Ollys ( Trackdaynova ) was on a 4:1 or 5:1 but that pulled a 12 sec pass and the gearing was sweet for trackwork.

New Quaife FD is a lot of money though so its something you want to make sure is fit for purpose.

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Originally Posted by BRoadGhost

I really don't want to sound rude, but did you run all the new engine components in before even taking it on the rollers? Kid gloves, variable loads & speeds for the first 1000 miles then fresh oil & filter is in order, along with limited revs is best.

What was the oil pressure doing since the build? Where was the heat telling on the rods?

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There is a youtube video of the engine run on an engine dyno before it went in the car see http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthr...75-bhp)/page62 post #619

Steve

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Originally Posted by BRoadGhost

You'll be able to tell by looking at the rod bearings if they've spun, which could mean the bolts weren't stretched correctly when being assembled or not run in enough before given the abuse; assuming the oil pressure never failed. Good luck with sorting it. If it's you rebuilding, once it's all back together take the time to turn it over to get the pressure up before firing it.

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Bearings can spin even if the rod bolts are correctly stretched.

Steve

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Originally Posted by Jonlem

If its 3" its too big. Something has clearly gone wrong since the dyno as even if the figures were slightly out ( which I doubt ) its lost nearly 60hp hasn't it ?

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Just an update, I spoke to Craig from SBD this morning and the 3" exhaust they say is recommended for the xe using the type C manifold. He also said all the work that's needed is done by the manifold so the exhaust won't cause the issue. He also they tested type c on a engine dyno with a 3" exhaust fitted and then the manifold by itself and there was no power difference

Can't argue with that then, I am quite sure others don't use 3" systems though but if they work so be it.

All that said there must be a big problem somewhere on it to of lost that much power

He also said the power Los could be down to the fact of it being fitted into the car due to air restrictions etc but also maybe rs roller read lower Im not sure but with a torque figure Rhys 7ft lb up from the engine dyno session then tere must be something right in it. Issues will be fixed then I'll take it from there