Dont want to ruin benns thread but dont put a f28 on a xe even at your power it wont suit it
Printable View
Dont want to ruin benns thread but dont put a f28 on a xe even at your power it wont suit it
Yeah sorry Benn, cheers for the heads up Mr Stee!!Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_stee
What's the weight difference?
F20 to F28??Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
Quote:
Originally Posted by House1983
Glad you've had a read, Thank you, that is very nice to hear that my ocd and getting annoyed with the car are worth it. As alot of the time it doesn't feel worth it.
F28 wise, i wouldn't fit one, if i could go back i wouldn't of fitted one!
Cv wise was down to the box being to low and to far forward. Hence all the messing with mounts and bits. Keep your F20. Fit a diff in it. It will be much much better.
You arnt and i fully agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_stee
Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
F28 is 57.9kg. F20 is about 20-25kg.Quote:
Originally Posted by House1983
If i could go back, i would use a F20 with a lower 5th gear fitted for a WR F18, to give nice low reves when cruising on the motorway and fit a Quaife or someones diff to that. That way you have the best of both worlds.
I agree with Ben f20 with a dif with a 5th gear change
this is what I have done , some people say that they let go but the previous let ran well at pod an track use
My first let nova had a f28 and wen a fitted a let in my next nova a thought a defantly dont want a f28. But do need to do 5th gear mod
Can't wait to have a little look at PVS mate!! Be good to see it in person.
It's made me want to be a bit more particular with mine and ensure things are done right!!
I've got a spare F20 that's just had a new gear set in it, 5th gear swap it is, just need to find a 5th gear from an F18!!!
I used my F20 on my let for 4 years... never had a prob.Quote:
Originally Posted by kevster
My mates F20 with WR 5th gear does 2.7k reves at 70.. My F28 in 6th does 3.5k at 70...Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_stee
If i hadn't just fixed my F28 i'd look at going back...
Please do, i'll be on the Mig stand. Come and find me we'll have a good chat.Quote:
Originally Posted by House1983
I try and look at it, do it right first time, then you wont re do it... I've redone many things due to being unhappy and thinking it was sh*ttley done the first time.
Easy, lots of cavs would of had them...
Car wise. Last 3 days have been a night mare!
Back on topic then mate, what's occurring??Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
I'll do a full update tonight with pics...
Updates.... Good and bad.
Monday.
Gear box looks like this... Pretty enough.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psayttfgz1.jpg
De masked, new drive shaft seals fitted Chrome clutch arm fitted.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psttlsjs51.jpg
With a jack under the engine i lower it to kinda point the engine down to make fitting easier i hoped. Gear box on other jack..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psfouubwkp.jpg
This is where i needed two hands, top and bottom to shuffle the box in to place...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psevfti8cp.jpg
As i got to this point, Dan and Petor turned up...
The box almost fell in to place, like amazingly easy.. Just pushed on and bolted up. Dan said we should buy a lotto ticket as we must of had good luck that day.....
Sadly that's where the luck stopped. Front mount was easy enough to fit. The rear mount? Oh no!
I had bought a new rubber bit as mine was knackered and painted the metal mount bit..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psyg9sdk5c.jpg
Bolt the mount to the box... Then it was miles off the floor holes... Fit it to the floor and its miles off the box... Over an hour later of pushing, pulling, giggling, swearing, adjusting it was finally bolted up.
I re fitted hub and shaft and arm and tie bar. The steering arms were fitted to get the tracking looking roughly right, to get the car out of the garage to be able to track it. gear linkage fitted and set up in 2 goes. Perfect change.
Then we messed about with my brake caliper, has they are spaced and i've never liked it, Dan thought i maybe had the brakes on the caliper on around the wrong way.. As they have offset holes. Strip down, re fit.. Doesn't fit the other way.. The holes are too offset. I'd like to know how others have done it. Refit it all. Very dirty arches there. I must clean them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psxkt38hqz.jpg
Get car out side, jack back up, start trying to set the tracking.. As Dan turned the steering there was a huge clonk... Turned a bit more.. Another big clonk. We 3 of us thought "oh"
Looking down at the rack where it enters the car, it looks like its all moved. Hhhmm odd.
Queue me getting very stressed, Rack has to be removed to see what's going on... Normally not to hard, but the pinion? Bi that connects rack to column has slide out. So i couldn't get it out of the bulkhead...
More anger! Finally got it all out, looks like either the circlip has either popped out for not being sat in the cut out. Or it was bent and popped it out as the rack was turned.
So i beat the pinion back in... Then beat my bench to de stress. Find circlip from old rack and refit it making sure it's seated.
Refit the rack getting more angry as i marked one of the steering arms and scratched the chrome too (luckily i found out after its on the bottom where it can't be seen)
Gave up there. Had had enough.
Tue after work, i need a hand to line the rack to column up so Dan gave me a hand again. Got that in easier with two people. Fit nice chromed rack mounts too...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psfp5i3c9d.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...pskip2h1di.jpg
Chromed Clutch bracket back in, and cable on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psaus1eoyw.jpg
Refit gear linkage and spend a few mins setting it up as this time it's an **** to set up nicely.
Rack ends back on and set up tracking.. Get it looking straight so i can test drive it.. Drop car on ground.. One wheel has a little toe out. Other is almost straight.
Test drive down road... Christ it's hard to drive and steer! As i tun around Dan is waving like mad at me.
Back story here.. When i put the car in the garage as it was right over to the left i took the mirror off so while jacking up it wouldn't be near the wall. While walking past the car i think while carrying a F28 a chest hight i knocked the pass mirror knocking the glass out... So i hadn't spotted Dan waving...
Pull back on to drive way Dan is videoing me by this point... The wheel that was toeing out a little? It now just turning to turn left... So much so the tyre is really under strain... Now i see why it was hard to drive EEK!
Adjust tracking again, Dan thought if we measure the threads either side and set them the same then it would be straight... But no. One side seems to need to be longer...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...pssoqvzfdm.jpg
Both wheels looking straight, test drive again.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psnm9lppue.jpg
Reverse off drive, turn and drive away.. Feels much better. Notice my water temp gauge is sticking, flick dash and it pops up. As it does the oil prerssure drops off and the light comes on.. Funk! Switch off.
Turn using momentum, Where i have just driven is in a deep dip... Coast down. Have to push up other side... not easy. People on my road park like **** holes. (back ground info, all house have big drives, but people still park on the road, but people will only park outside their houses, no matter what the other cars are parked like.
Even a nova is hard to push up a steep hill. Nice man i think from next door helps.. As i notice i've left a line of oil all the way down the road....
Get car on drive, oil pouring from by oil filter... When i pulled off the drive i must of clipped the oil line with the tyre and pulled it off the cooler feeds. Ol everywhere!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps2x3wk8ip.jpg
Then noticed water leaking too, pipe ripped, turbo has hit and finished a fin in the rad off too! I guess from giggling the engine to get the rear mount on! GREAT.
Push car in garage. Need to get the wheel of and start cleaning oil off and work out a better oil line.
On a good note, these is the angle of my steering arm now. That is much much better than before with the hub mods to invert the track rod ends..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psppnzjq8z.jpg
Think that's it... Sorry it's a long read. Huge huge thanks to Dan for all his help. And to Peter... For falling asleep on my drive... haha
Hope you get it all sorted Ben , I feel your pain , I've has nothing but grief with mine , box looks the nuts ,!!!
Me too. I'm thinking many chromed copper pipe work with just silicone joiners for the oil line. That way i can hang it better and if the tyre touches it should be a prob....
Unreal attention to detail mate, makes the difference!!
Are you not able to go with some AN fittings and some SS braided rubber hose for the cooler?? Would be flexible enough to clip it up out the way, you could even go up into the chasis leg with them on your way to the cooler??
I could, but i last run with braided cost me a lot for not alot of gain... So i've not gone back for the mo.
The video i spoke of, not as good as i had hoped tho. But you can see the wheels pointing the wrong way.
http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/...psuxtlrrwq.mp4
I can understand that mate, I've probably spent near on £1000 on braided lines and various fittings and I'm still not happy with how it all looks!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
As for the vid, looks fine to me, bit of toe in, help it turn in!!!!!!
hahaha it was turning in so much the tyre was trying to pop off... and it was bloody hot for a 2min drive down and up the road.
See the hill we had to push the car up...lol
Pushing novas up hill is like character building!! Makes you hate it a bit more!!!
Hahaha it did piss me off alot. Still car jacked up and arch all washed clean. Still unsure what to do with the cooler lines tho.
Other than the SS braided AN-8 stuff I'm not sure what else you can do. It's such a difficult route and I think any solid pipe would be inflexible and standard rubber too vulnerable!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Yeah, i really dont know what to do.
Benn, just read your tales of woe and I am gutted for you mate. *mutters something about Murphy rearing its ugly face* Hang in there buddy.
I forget what your lines look like but maybe want to do something like I've been running for ages... Stubby filter and oil lines go directly underneath it and under sump
Cheers Niek and who?Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_niek
I have a normal filter and takes offs. I think my take off fittings are very large tho as they stick out very far. Mine then run down the bottom of the chassis/inner wing. Which is right where my tyre sits. Any pics of yours?Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain
Changed what i was doing, took the car back out side, wheel off and started de greasing the arch and everything to get the oil off... It was everywhere. (Iain you can see my lines there)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps9rxxjva1.jpg
My wheel and tyre where covered, inc all the treads... All have to be de greased and scrubbed clean.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps7rpq4hvq.jpg
Found oil was dripping from the bumper so took it off and found two thing.
1, my air filter has been quite badly squashed by the bumper.
B, my air "box" is good at collecting oil...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psaeshzi3j.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psxym0nf2g.jpg
Removed it and its been fully cleaned.
Arched were then dried as best i could and re waxed and sealed, then look better now as they needed a good clean anyway.
As i've lost alot of oil i thought i might as well do a oil change while in there. So got a filter out of stock and painted it.... You know. Cause i had too really.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps2hra1xz6.jpg
Oil change and tracking tomoz. Then drive it.
Looking at your cooler take offs mate, the radius of the 90 is quite big, your route is similar to mine but i dive left across the car to my cooler where you go right.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...D076F5B1D1.png
These would keep the hose tighter to the engine, you could then double clip it to the inderside of the chassis leg on the engine bay side of the lip so they're protected from the tyre?? Can use them with rubber hose similar in coiloir and style to what you have now (from the pics)
You should avoid using forged fittings on oil. Swept every time.
Mine are mine longer, tighter smaller ones would be good, can you link me too them?Quote:
Originally Posted by House1983
Yea they are better as above really. Mine are much longer, i'll get a pic. ** Also is that a crack by the nut from the sus arm on the chassis??Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain
Which are forged? Mine came from a hydro place so he knew mine where for oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8valve-craig
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...psl6ml1bgw.jpg
Just remember seeing this on SBD's instruction sheets when plumbing in mine, that's all.
I'd reinforce Craig's opinion on this, definitely avoid the square bends that cast fittings tend to make. Interestingly when you look at the details of the 'Torques' Cast Fittings on their eBay site, when you scroll down to read the details is shows proper radiused fittings which you should use.
Basically swept fittings result in smooth oil flow, whereas cast fitting result in a disrupted oil flow...
Froth on beer = good, froth in oil = bad!
Just grubby in a seam I think! Shorten yours and run them below, it sits there lovelyQuote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Sorry chaps, my bad, I've got the wrong picture!!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...A70421BCC8.png
These are the ones I used, they also do one that uses push on rubber hose.
Dreadful pic but you can see they turn a lot closer,
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...F1126F171E.jpg
Search AN8 90 on eBay and buy from "torqes" you can buy the bends and all the adapters you need, the sandwich plate is m16x1.5 to AN8 that's the adapter I used.
Any questions just shout mate.
At the risk of sounding like an asshole I would disagree with that too. AN10 minimum on a pressure line, and the ULTRAFLOW fittings tend to be more compact.
I have these on all of my pressure lines.
http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...psp6ib03jf.jpg
Mate, you won't sound like an asshole if what you're saying is right and I'm almost certain you are right cos I know *u*k all!!!!! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 8valve-craig
I said to the guy at Torques what I was doing with the fittings and he sent me the right ones, now I know he messaged me and said I'd selected the wrong fittings for my SS braided hose so it's possible that the ones I pictured aren't the right ones and I'm 300 miles from the car so can't get any pics and don't have my laptop to see what the eBay message says!!
My mocal cooler has AN8 fittings welded into it so I just assumed it would be AN8 and carried on.
Actually, thinking about it this is just a cooler isn't it. -8 may well be fine, I'm comparing it to mine which is in the return to tank line in -12.
Going back to Ben's car, maybe just re-do it how it is and fit some steering lock stops
Like the idea with the air filter Ben ! What's the benefit of running a cooler anyways ?? , I'm not running one on mine I've got a cosworth oil separator .. Or have I maded a boo boo
Steering rack limit would work, I had this on my MI16 pug 205 to stop the wheel touching the gearbox casing!!