Benn your mount on your leg sits so much lower than mine and ive never done a cv joint, al get you a pic of mine for you
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Benn your mount on your leg sits so much lower than mine and ive never done a cv joint, al get you a pic of mine for you
Please, and see i've looked at Simps guide and his sits lower than mine .
Getting the engine tipped forwards & as high up as it can go is the answer; looks like you're pretty much there now with the location it just needs to stay there under full load. I wouldn't be happy with such welds because you can see they're just sitting in the space rather than melting & joining the surrounding 3MM.
The mount is only a template kinda thing. I want to get it all in the right place, then i'm gonna get the mount remade. As my welding is ok, but i wouldn't trust it on a mount. As i dont think it will be strong enough.
But after looking at pics of Simps mounts...
See Simps'es
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../28-12-076.jpg
That is lower than mine... You can see mines right on the edge of the hole in the chassis leg.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ntwelding5.jpg
Same here, going by the hole mines father back too.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../28-12-078.jpg
Mine,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ntwelding3.jpg
So this is where i started.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...UnstuckCV3.jpg
With alot of ANGER i managed to get this made (spare bit of chassis shaped metal i got bent, 2mm thick) and welded on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...UnstuckCV2.jpg
A very crude method i know. But with it welded in, which i'll add Cv grease catches fire very very easy and smokes like a motherfunker! The whole garage was full, so i had to work with the door open, which was frigging cold!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...UnstuckCV5.jpg
Hole in the middle is hot the slide hammer. After the cv and metal had cooled i slid my fingers in to it and bolted the slide hammer on, had to stand to get a good swing and on the 3rd hit..........
BOOM!
Cv shot out.....
Now, for this i upgraded to 0.8 wire and Argon/co2 mix gas. Both which are nicer, altho you cant tell here..lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...UnstuckCV6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...UnstuckCV7.jpg
Re stripped the shaft down to remove the cv boots so i can look at the angles of the joints.
Then mega RAGE while taking the wing off...I snapped the end of my grille off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...UnstuckCV4.jpg
Had to stop there and then.
good job on the cv. :) bad job on the grille :(
Cheers dude.
Oh no benn glad you got the cv out in the end,bugger about your grill mate
Grille was the final straw. Left the garage right there..lol Ah well, see if i can find a new one..lol
Looking at your inner CV joint failure pictures i'd diagnose your problem as Insufficent drive shaft plunge !!!!
Place a 5mm spacer between the cv joint and the wheel bearing/hub - althought you will have to redrill the split pin hole on the joint as it will no longer be visible when the spacer is fitted !!!
Dave
The grille design how it clips in the wing is a **** design should of adapted the mk1 way with bolts
Love this car, shame about the grille. Do you have another one?
Glad to see your still getting your hands Dirty !!!! sh1tter about the grille though !!!!
They have a course for that here: anger management lol
Good you left it there and then, I've had similar in my 5 years on the Michalak.
Nice welds, good job :thumb:
BroadGhost and Lee303 have talked of the same, i have the shaft rebuilt now but with cv boot off, so i can look at the movement and free movement when its sat straight and then where the steering is turned.Quote:
Originally Posted by fearless
Would the spacer do the same as getting the circlip cut out moved down? As that means the shaft will sit deeper in the knuckle meaning less stress on the knuckle and cage?
Yeah is very annoying. But the tight fit made it fit nicely..lolQuote:
Originally Posted by brainsnova
Only a less nice one i use for track, but i'll get another. Thank you very much too.Quote:
Originally Posted by bazzap8389
Always.Quote:
Originally Posted by GRUNT 16V
I'd fail it! haha, tbh i had to just walk off and leave it. Welds are ok, wasn't worried about a nice weld, just wanted it on there and strong so i could get the joint out. But happy they seem to be very strong and penetrated well going by the heat colouring.Quote:
Originally Posted by CorsaBBoomer
Correct -Driveshaft plunge is 15mm AFAIK measured at full droop, undo the castle nut and make sure the inner joint is pushed in then measure how far you can push the outer CV joint in until it stops, then add spacers accordingly until correct plunge is achieved . Although worth stripping down the CV's, cleaning and repacking them with fresh grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Dave
Ah, great info! As i've been wondering how much move ment there should be. So back on the ground with the wheel on? Then check? Same with the steering turned to check that...
Inner joint is new and newly filled with grease, out is only about a year old, but i'll check and re fill with grease if needed.
Cheers for the help Dave.
Nasty **** dude, lol glad it's not just me who brakes things while fixing other things..
I think it's always the way...
Driveshaft plunge should be measured on full droop and compression
Front end jacked up, wheels off - ideally suspension spring off strut so you can get full drop and compression and then take your measurement at the extremes of suspension travel
Anywhere between 15mm and 18mm is a ideal figure
Dave
Oh so shock fully open and fully compressed... I'll check on with that tomoz. Cheers Dave.
Hope you manage to sort your cv troubles out Benn
Cheers Edd, should be able. Been given alot to check and think thru.
Hi mate, just catching up on this. Regarding mount placement, from what I;ve seen over the years they all seem to sit different, although from memory I think I ended up moving mine on that white one for more clearance, was so long ago tho.
Sup dude, and yeah i know. They are all different, it was just for a bit more placing ref.
is there any nova turbo that has ever been built using an f28 that dosnt eat cvs????
Touching lots of wood , mine has behaved itself since building it 5 years ago, however I am using a different front mount which may help...
http://www.elsamak.karoo.net/Install6a.jpg
Joff
Ive never had one cv joint go in 3 years at just over 300bhpQuote:
Originally Posted by Alex J
Understand that placing a 5mm spacer between the cv joint and the wheel bearing / hub actually worsens the drive shaft angle because you're bringing the CV's closer together along an axis. It's not the right way to do it when what causes them to blow is the shaft angle not just plunge.
I've only really seen outer go...Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex J
Will re cutting the grove in the shaft not do the same?Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
So do i still measure the amount of movement?
Right, took the spring out of the coilover then refitted. I normally run the car at about 7".
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...aftangles3.jpg
Jacked up as far as it would go. Gap between where the spring would go is 4". Alot of shaft angle. Cant move the shaft in and out of the cvs.
Shaft angle at 4"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...aftangles2.jpg
Lowered to a gap of 6"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...aftangles4.jpg
Shaft angle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...aftangles6.jpg
Still cant move the shaft at all...
Lowered to 9", which is lower than i'd ever had it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...aftangles5.jpg
Shaft now points more down,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...aftangles7.jpg
But still cant move the shaft in and out. No matter how hard i pull and push it... Which i'm guessing is the main prob....
Have you undone the castle nut on the outer cv joint - Your shaft wont move in or out if your outer cv joint is tight against the bearing as there is no plunge in the outer joint
Ah i did it up, as i thought the lose Cv would just move so i'm be measuring that.
No idea what some of the people on MIG are saying, but Lee knows what he's talking about and I think Dale is trying to explain what I have except what he means is the shaft is too short "as is" and effectively wants lengthening via the route I took. It is the better way over spacing the CV outer into bearing because there's no increased detriment to the angle [be it only small].
Looking at some pictures in relation to castor, you'd benefit from running more positive too. You can go pretty far with it if you get the back down.
Nay sayers about ride height are wrong because you'd need to be lower than mine and I'm not sure that you are.
BTW jacking the car up on one corner like that to compress, even with a spring in, won't be how it actually sits on the road. Believe me, it will be lower.
Yeah Dale as explained it quite well. But with the castle nut done up there is no movement in the shaft at all and there needs to be. So i need to have the circlip grove moved up the shaft both ends to make it shorter giving me the movement yes? But he's saying it's to long, so the shaft is holding the cages out so there is no movement..
I cant see i'm running lower than you, Will your bigger wheels help tho?
And i know jacking it up isnt the right way to do it, but it's giving me the closest info i need and can work with...
Wheel size doesn't effect things like shaft angles & geometry; only ride height does. What I mean is the front on mine is lower and I'm no longer doing inner CVs.
If you look at where the groove is machined into the shaft, when it's located in the splined cage, the end of the shaft protrudes a good few MM beyond the splines. So when you get each end of the shaft machined at least you'll still have the peace of mind there's enough meat in there not to cause other reliability issues.
Btw Did you check the rear gearbox mount? I've broken that on more than one occasion and it can be really difficult to spot unless you take it off to inspect it. With the weight & torque you're now running combined with the ride height it could be well worth investing in some metalastic / alloy mounts, even if it's just the rear gearbox one, to give you the much needed reduction in engine / gearbox movement under load. Beyond that maybe a 4th mount to the front.
It's no use having all the power in the world if it just repeatedly breaks.
Ah yeah, yours is deffo lower than mine, that's why your input was very very welcome. As you've sorted any prob like this out before.
I did look at the groves while taking the boots of the cvs. There is loads on there compared to some i've seen/tried. So i hope they wouldn't ever become a prob.
I did have a look at the rear mount, with it fitted it all seems fine, can't see any damage or marks that would say it's had a beating. But i might pop it off to check it just in case. The glued mounts have taken all engine movement away tbh. But can see your point on it. I do really like the idea of the 4th mount, as it would take up the strain. Might be something to look in to, when i get my fab skills up a bit.
This is one main reason i don't have confidence in the car at the mo, breaking stuff. I want to be able to know i can really push it and it wont break. Then i can final ph2 it...
liking your sig lol