View Full Version : CP's Trackday 1.6 on TB's re-build
This thread originally started with pictures showing the demise of my 1.4 on TB's which have been removed from the hosting service. Sorry about that
Its now been tidied up and starts with deciding what to do with the old engine and then the re-build process to change the suspension, make additions to the cage and fit a new 1.6 on TB's a few pages in
Let me know if you need any help with the XE conversion.
.....tee hee hee hee hee lol
Edited images have been deleted
Let me know if you need any help with the XE conversion.
.....tee hee hee hee hee lol
Stuck record.:roll:
And anyway I can fit engines that blow up on my own - dont need your "help":p lol
And no I'm not planning to put an XE in it or put its engine in my Nova before anyone makes the comment Lee:roll: lol
Ive got a great idea..........
lol.
So is the nova getting a repair or are we upgrading to 1.6 power. I know you were undecided when we spoke last month.
Pass. Not sure until I've found out what the problem is. TBH I've always found the power good enough for most circumstances so if i can sort it without having to spend massive money I will do.
I've got some plans for the suspension at the front which i think is currently the weak link in the laptimes and not the engine.
vaughanmc
05-01-08, 11:08 PM
Nice Cortina :)
Probably worth fitting a 1600, depending on the damage.
And everything will easily swap over.
Liking the modded exhaust manifold, looks as good as a "proper" jobbie and worthwile considering 16v performance manifolds are usually twice the price of equivalent 8v ones.
ill be watching this thread, always loved this car
craig green
06-01-08, 01:21 PM
Likewise.
It has to be one of the hardest sounding N/A engines I've heard in a Nova.
Heres to a speedy return to track action. :thumb:
peester
06-01-08, 06:25 PM
It has to be one of the hardest sounding N/A engines I've heard in a Nova.
sooooooooooooooo need to hear this..
any vids?? (bar the 'broadside' chicane manouvre vid)
nice one with the build CP, ill be gawping too, any old but still good parts youll be ridding of?
Edited - images deleted. Showed mangled valve and damage piston crown
Still not 100% sure but it looks as though 1 of the inlet valves may have stretched and caught the piston crown which in turn caused a bit of the valve lip to break off. This was discussed as a potential problem because at higher revs the standard valves have been known to do this. Apparently the solution is sodium filled valve heads but we didn't fit them cos they are bloody pricey
So at the moment it looks like it could be relatively good news so long as the stem guides and valve train hasn't been damaged. I don't think there is any long term damage to the piston crown or the rest of the bottom end cos the engine has always carried on turning over OK so I'm hoping it was the valve that took all the grief.
Valve stretched, or just didnt shut in time? What was it revving to again, I cant rememeber lol?
Nasty bit of damage there.
Strange how you had to mod the crank pully to get it to stay put, not seen that problem before.
Had chance to check things out more thoroughly and its not good news.
Although the bore in the affected cylinder is OK the cylinder next to it has a bad score in it. It looks as though one of the rings may have picked up a bit.:(
So it looks like I wont be putting the bottom end together again since its not really worth it after all thats happened.
I've made the decision to get another block and try and salvage as much as possible. I'm prolly gonna get a 1.6 block this time since whilst I've always been happy with the power from the 1.4 when its up on cam, it was defo short of torque out of slower corners which was becoming annoying esp at my local circuit Rockingham
I'm thinking of aiming for a solid reliable 180 -200hp without any silly revs (circa 8k) and some better valves this time!:tard: I'm not at all convinced that much more than 180 hp is needed anyway esp if you take into consideration the extra strain it will put on the drive train.
In the meantime I have some plans for the gear linkage, for the trackrod ends, for the lower TCA and tie bar arrangement and the front turret tops. I also hope to stitch weld out the shell which is getting a bit tired.
Holy poo Charles, it'll be a rocket!!
Adam Moran
12-01-08, 10:14 PM
180/200bhp from a 1.6 16v.... have i missed something?? :confused:
If not then its got some serious work being done to that block!!!
Always love this car and one day sir.. i will see you on track :thumb:
180bhp isnt that difficult with these engines with minimal block work. Pistons and rod bolts are pretty much all you need. The magic is in the head, and CP already has a belter of one :)
Its still too small though lol
Adam Moran
12-01-08, 10:20 PM
Thats fair enough
On Tb's surley tho??
peester
12-01-08, 10:20 PM
ah.. so, this leaves an emtpy chair in the 1.4 16v catagory..?
mind u, tis easy to see why..
good readin CP..
Thats fair enough
On Tb's surley tho??
Oh yes. :thumb:
Ad-180 is quite easily possible with cams/tbs/exhaust manifold on a 1600 :)
Cp-Bad news about the old block.Sounds like it'll be back bigger and faster tho :)
not thought about a 1.8 bottom end?
I dont think hes after a development engine, just a quick fix :)
Yes I did think about a 1.8 small block bottom end but from what I gather its a lot of extra work and expense over the 1.6 conversion which is fairly well documented, straight forward and well tested.
Plus would of needed a custom throttle body inlet to suit the 1800 head etc etc.
I have started to look at my suspension/steering geometry with a view to get a suitable set-up once and for all sorted out.
I have trawled the net for info and came across this: ( its for model cars but the principles still apply)
http://www.rctek.com/handling/ackerman_steering_principle.html
I decided to see what kind of ackerman angle has been incorporated into the standard nova reasoning that they naturally handled well so I fitted standard tca's, tiebars etc back onto my car and with the aid of some plumblines took some measurements.
Its difficult to be accurate but what I found was that the cross over point of the 2 lines through the centre of the bottom pivot point of the hub and the steering arm pivot point is well over 1 meter ahead of the rear axle (slightly over 1.3 m according to my rough measurements).
To put it into some kind of perspective that is about halfway between the front axle line and the rear which equals a LOAD of positive ackerman which in turn means that during sharp turns the inside wheel has a lot of toe out induced.
So what does this mean in normal track driving? Well I'm not too sure but I would guess that its effect is un-noticeable until you get to the slowest and sharpest bends and even then it is probably not a negative issue.
However I am going to take some steps to reduce the amount of positive ackerman because I have lowered the car inducing negative camber
which in turn pushes the steering arm pivot into the car away from the hub pivot. This substantially moves the cross where the 2 lines meet further forward which maybe too much. I'm intending to put a lot more negative camber onto the front wheels anyway compounding the effect.
Having had a bit of a think there are 2 ways to reduce having too much positive ackerman:
1. Increase positive caster
2. Move the steering arm pivot point nearer to the hub pivot point
My plan is to make up a totally new solid wishbone arrangement to replace the current tca and tie bar arrangement. This will allow me to induce a lot more positive caster. The other thing I'm going to do is alter the turret top so that I can get top of the spring and shocker about 25 - 30 mm further in and back towards the centre of the car.
I shall keep front wheel track at or very near standard.
I want to stop having the steering knuckle joint seated on the top of the hub steering arm so I'm considering making a totally different hole further towards the hub tapering up so the knuckle can go in from below. This will make the steering arms level & reduce the bumpsteer tendencies caused by steering arms being angled up when lowering the car.
Personally I wouldn't taper the new hole, instead keep it straight and use something similar to these studded rose joints:
http://i10.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/ab/09/b679_1.JPG
Or rose joints and bolts.
That way you can use washers to make fine adjustments. Might seem unecessary, but if you're going to the trouble of re-doing everything, then why not lol
Not a bad idea - cheers:)
Whilst the engine side is awaiting bits I decided to turn my attention to the suspension idea I've had with which I hope to be able to alter the caster.
First I got a standard Nova TCA and tie bar and spent some time measuring stuff up
I had thought that the pivot points lined up but this is not so
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics003.jpg
So next I traced around the components to get some points of reference and then took some measurements off the car
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics004.jpg
This gave me a template to refernce off of. Next I started to bend up some 40x40x3mm SHS box
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics005.jpg
With this set-up I can lay out various shapes to work out whats what. I'm hoping to be able to move the whole wheel forward at least 25-30mm.
Tomorrow, I'm going to cut the various bits to length and tack weld them up
Farking hell Charles, talk about getting the bug back :) Very VERY good to see!! Watching this thread with renewed interest now!
Todays work:
First took my current suspension apart and offered up the key bit to see how it looked
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics006.jpg
I marked cut lines and cut out the existing rose joint threaded end plate
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics013-1.jpg
Nice work.
Some very cool fabrication going on :)
Next i drilled the necessary holes out
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics002-1.jpg
Which looked like this when offered up
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics011.jpg
Next I tacked it up
The underside detail tacked up with rose joint and uniball in place
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics008.jpg
Next job was to start making the front cross member bracket which was quite fiddly to work out where the holes needed to be to line up properly
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics004-1.jpg
not very clear but I'm using a bit of rod in the various holes to work out if its all ok
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspensionpics018.jpg
Thats it for today
Great stuff. I'm looking forward to seeing what your up too. You've got some nice toys to play with in your workshop :D
craig green
28-01-08, 12:27 PM
Nice upgrades CP. These are the kind of things I wish I was doing to my car.
Hope it works out well.
Could you upload the pics of the exhaust manifold again? :)
Hmm must have expired. I think I may have deleted them as I have changed phones recently. Is something desperate cos they are gonna get reposted elsewhere soon?
Which neatly brings me to the subject of the next lot of pics. Ok I'll hold my hands and admit I've cheated but an opportunity presented itself that doesn't arise very often and I succumbed and agreed terms to purchase the following - its not the darkside but very nearly.... enjoy... this is pure porn
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/1600engine004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/1600engine003.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/1600engine002.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/1600engine001.jpg
Well I think I can say (without counting my chickens too early that thats pretty much my engine problems sorted:eek: lol
Thats a damn fine looking engine there! Probably goes alright too. Did it come with a white nova attached or is that something else?
peester
01-02-08, 10:36 PM
you bought that all complete, as pics? or is that the new engine wearing your old 1.4 anchilleries??
tis a looker tho.. 1.8?
Not a 1.8, that would be too close to that evil 2....... I was never confused!
This little package was worth four of us driving to somewhere way up in Northland on a 8.5hr round trip! Makes me go all tingly seeing the photos again.
MC
mikey14sr
01-02-08, 11:40 PM
Dry-sumped C16XE with throttle bodys? nice.
Hmm must have expired. I think I may have deleted them as I have changed phones recently. Is something desperate cos they are gonna get reposted elsewhere soon?
Nah, not desperate. I was just interested in comparing it to the one ive just bought, as it looked similar iirc.
Thats a fooking hardcore looking small block!!! :eek:
I like :cool:
peester
02-02-08, 05:35 PM
..anyone know what CP's doin with his old bits? :D
Rick Draper
02-02-08, 05:57 PM
New 1600 16V engine built with all new or as new parts mainly supplied by SBD. Built for strength & power (approximately 220 bhp). Dry sumped so would also suit rear wheel drive conversion.
SBD worked head with matched inlet, SBD valves & valve gear, SBD rally cams (11.60mm lift 295 degrees), SBD alloy verniers, SBD competition head gasket, Omega/SBD slipper pistons, SBD steel rods, heavy duty big end bolts, Jenvey taper throttle bodies, ITG air Filter, MBE 967E with loom, small Peco 480 high flow injectors, 4-2-1 stainless steel exhaust manifold, fuel pressure regulator, dry sump pump, pan, steel braided pipes & tank, modified cam cover to suit dry sumping, High Spec oil filter kit to suit dry sumping.
Very competition engine for sale at a fraction of the build cost. Dyno run by SBD only.
That would be the one then Charles. Very nice spec.
peester
02-02-08, 06:55 PM
^^ ah.. i saw that engine for sale actually on that site, yeah.. lol .mega mega,
..anyone know what CP's doin with his old bits? :D
So long as the purchase goes ahead as planned, they will be up for sale but not yet so hold your horses. Many a slip twixt cup & lip and all that;)
Rick is right obviously. I've not seen any dyno figures nor do I know who built the bottom end. I'm looking for something that will hopefully have a reliable life of at least 500 full chat miles. The mileage covered in trackdays is closer to that of endurance racing ie very hardwork so I may bring the revs down-not too much point being the fastest person to the first breakdownlol
There are other goodies that I have always wanted such as lightweight competition starter, alternator. It also has a super lightweight flywheel and paddle clutch. The deal also includes a full custom built SS zorst system which looks to have all the right design features but isn't a recognised name so I'm not sure just how good it actually is. The big thing that I really want to experience is the dry sump system - trying to keep the oil in the right place within the engine on some tracks has been a constant source of irritation with my old wet sump system.
peester
03-02-08, 10:21 AM
So long as the purchase goes ahead as planned, they will be up for sale but not yet so hold your horses. Many a slip twixt cup & lip and all that;)
horses on hold.. am interested tho.
You a right to be excited about this engine tho; one can tell youve thought good n long about it - in a reliability and useful/apropriate-ness way; that the engine will do what u want/need it to do; not just the 'more power' attributes.
Right todays progress - its been slow sorting all the measurements and fabricating stuff
First i mocked this up
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspension2001.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspension2002.jpg
next took it off and welded it all up thus
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspension2003.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspension2003.jpg
Finally put it back on and sorted the new "wishbone" into position ready to take measurements for cutting the front part to length
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novasuspension2005.jpg
As it is in the final picture the hub pivoting point will have been moved roughly 30mm directly forward beyond where I was with the previous set-up which in itself was over 20mm forward from standard. Ball park preliminary measurements suggest that if I leave the top strut pivot point as standard I will have over 3 degrees positive camber. If I alter the top mount pivot point in and back as planned I think I may be able to get around 6 degrees positive caster overall but this wont be confirmed til I get the final bit welded on:)
this thread is definatly one of the best on here, interesting and informative
nova---chris
04-02-08, 10:50 AM
Good to see the mad professor is at it again lol!!
Bringing skills from tractors to cars lol!
I almost expected a Cat engine earlier in the threads but have to say the engine you have purchased does look a proper tool . Fair play mate. i may have to get me **** in gear for a bit of spectating once some of you lads have got your cars all back together.
Good work mate and fabricating. Different!! :thumb:
Speak soon mate!
broster
05-02-08, 09:01 PM
good find on the engine, fancy swapping cam covers with me.......
fancy swapping cam covers with me.......
lol is that some kind of inuendo that I've not come across before?lol
Seriously tho ? Is there a problem that you've spotted?
broster
06-02-08, 07:06 AM
i need to do the same modification to my cam cover!
only thing id look at changing on the engine would be to swap over to an electric water pump, other than thats thats an awesome find!
What a thread! is 2008 the year of the rebuild for the old members of the site? Good work Charles, be great to catch up sometime this year to say hello!
such memories of when dans was built that weekend, really enjoyed it. was a proper top gear style challenge and it worked! :o)
Hi Will:) Yeah this projects part of the site works a treat and seems to get everybody on the go - it gave me the itch to get going although i admit my old bones resist the thought of a cold workshop. No doubt with all the other excellent cars being sorted there will a fair bit going on during the year.
Got few more pics - still scratching my head trying to get the suspension sorted:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208062.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208061.jpg
These show the front part of the new wishbone clamped in place
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208063.jpg
The rear of the new wishbone and how the strut looks
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208065.jpg
We measured the positive caster and fully forward its 7 degrees so we'll back it off somewhatlol
Here's what the wheel looks like on
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208057.jpg
Waaaay forwardlol
The next mod to be attempted will be camber. We've got a fair bit on already but we are going to try and move the top mount in and back to the centre of the car. Not too sure exactly the best way to do this yet but we've a had a few ideas tonight that we need to sleep on to refine into a more elegant solution. (if thats possible with my usual tools, a sledgehammer, a lump hammer and the oxy-acetylenelol )
Bottom wishbone arrangement fully welded and painted
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208073.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208072.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208074.jpg
First I cut out a template
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208075.jpg
Next mark out on some steel
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208077.jpg
For those of us without a plasma cutter you can try the old skool flame cut appraoch. The nozzle to use is the thin sheet steel one on the left
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208082.jpg
This is dragged along the surface of the steel and is specifically designed to give a small flame and narrow cut on sheet steel
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208084.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208088.jpg
After a bit of tidying up I got this
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208091.jpg
Which will fit something like this
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/060208089.jpg
dhdev (Oli)
16-02-08, 08:32 PM
Charles I don't understand how your tie-bar will locate and operate properly without a bearing of some sort. Surely having a steel hole on the bare bolt is gonna have wear issues, leading to play as the hole is enlarged/bolt worn down. Surely a rosejoint at the end would've worked much better? Is there gonna be a series of spacers to prevent fore and aft movement too?
Charles I don't understand how your tie-bar will locate and operate properly without a bearing of some sort. Surely having a steel hole on the bare bolt is gonna have wear issues, leading to play as the hole is enlarged/bolt worn down. Surely a rosejoint at the end would've worked much better? Is there gonna be a series of spacers to prevent fore and aft movement too?
I wanted to use a rose joint but then I thought about the forces acting at that position. If I understand it right under acceleration the main force acting at the front is created by the driven wheels pushing forward through to the front cross member( the reverse will happen underbraking). A rose joint like the one at the rear of the tie bar is not designed to have lateral forces such as that - AFAIK it will try and shove the collar off the ball.
There are going to be washers to space it out front and rear so i can adjuster castor.
I dont expect wear to be an issue - i've made all sorts of stuff before and found that providing you using large bolts which give a large bearing area wear is limted. It will be greased and the size of steel used is way over spec.
BTW I spent a lot of time aligning it all so that the front pivot point is on the same axis as the rear one is
dhdev (Oli)
17-02-08, 05:57 PM
Understand what you're saying about the force acting on the bearing, but I've got rose-jointed tie-bar brackets on mine and the force acts as you said without probs.
But because the tie-bar acts as you said, the front pivot will take all the fore and aft forces. Therefore it will need to be free from movement in those directions. The only way I can see it doing that is by packing it tight with washers, which is gonna be bad from a smooth operation point of view, but leaving a small amount of play will lead to an annoying rattle and possibly bad feel through the suspension.
I'm probably being a bit needlessly nit picky though, and I'm certainly not trying to detract from what is a pretty revolutionary (In the Nova world) bit of engineering. :thumb:
Charles does plan to pack it with washers and yes it will probably knock, but no more than it did with the rose joint already there and dont forget that this car only ever gets used on track and probably only a few times a year.
We had the same conversation and he is right. The uniball front tie bar mounts that are commonly used are a different design with the bearing clamped in place.
I can't wait to try it, especially coupled with the squillion degrees of negative camber we'll get from re-doin the strut tops.
MC
Update please! We know you've been tinkerin!
fearless
20-02-08, 11:17 PM
Is that engine yours now - it's disappeared from http://www.eurorallye.co.uk/ website ??
craig green
21-02-08, 12:34 PM
Liking the upgrades & thinking behind them so far CP.
I'll pass judgement until its completed. Oli has some valid issues though IMO.
chimp007_uk
21-02-08, 01:01 PM
i've got a great bit of software for calculating roll centres and instaneous centres etc based on measurements taken from the car. you can adjust the camber, caster and toe and analyse the affects at full bump and rebound. would come in handy. will be interesting to see how much improvement is seen. liking the new lower arms.
Took the plunge after a bit of dithering about wondering just what would be the best way to go about it and particularly what the downsides were likely to be and chopped the top off my turrets
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets003.jpg
realised I couldn't really do this properly so out came the firewalllol
The new turret tops are about ready to go in. I've got to do some measuring and put in some reference points to get them symetrical
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets002.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets001.jpg
Craig - I'm reserving judgement as well! lol It maybe that Oli is right- this plan is only at the "lets make something, bolt it on and see what happens" stage. I'm not too worried as this isnt a road car so it doesn't really matter if its goes tits up. I'm reasonably confident plus if you picked up one of those arms you would realise that its not going to be wearing out or breaking all that fast (its all abit OTT in spec plus those are caterpillar bolts;) )
Chimp007 - Sounds interesting. When I get it sorted i'll get back to you on that cheers:)
On the annoying front you may see that 2 rusty holes have appeared:mad:
The next stage is the installation of a homemade extension to the roll cage.
Is that engine yours now - it's disappeared from http://www.eurorallye.co.uk/ website ??
Yep Dave -its in my workshop. I go down and sleep with it every night:D
I have some issues to sort with it. One is the location of oil reservoir and the other is the (what I consider to be pissy****d but maybe the correct one)drive belt and crank pulley for the oil pump. Quite honestly I wouldn't trust it to power a windscreen wiper let alone something as important as the oil pump in an engine thats dry sumped and revs its nuts off.
Today I've been getting ready to extend the roll cage and strengthen it somewhat. First job was to remove the windscreen and the drivers seat. Next I made holes through the bulkhead with a hole cutter and a modded driver
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets005.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets006.jpg
yer wishbone affair looks very akin to the way the ones on the VX are done... esp with the castor adjustment via shims lark too :D cunning plan.
My mate has seen a catbolt go through a gearbox from a rugged terrain loader........ it came out with a few dinks but the gearbox had no teeth left on the sprockets :D
hi cp
long time no see! have been reading your thread with interest after i was linked to it, the new engine looks great! much more cost effective than the 1800
anyways, a couple of things, the belt supplied with the dry sump is correct, but you can get one that is double the width if you are worried, not seen one fall off ever though
and on the subject of rose joints, pushing/pulling on them in the orientation you have described in this thread is what they are designed to do, and most have a spec with them for maximum static and radial loadings, as an expample, a 3/8 x 1/2 inch rose joint of decent quality has a ststic loading capability of 45,000 psi, you really wont push the ball out of the socket as it were, race teams even use them as top mount bearings
like your wishbone, but i wouldnt want to load a bolt like that, even if it doesnt break, it will wear, putting phantom loadings into your suspension where you least want it
not at all having a dig though, i had to re design my tie bar setup after i discovered a fairly basic major design flaw!!lol sorted now but thats what playing with your car is all about right?
anyways, looking good mate, have to catch up at a show sometime this year:thumb:
Hi Lee,
Good to hear from you and thanx for all your advice about 1800's :) .
Must admit I'm pretty ignorant about the subject of rose joints - the ones I have fitted were scrounged of a crop sprayer!lol
Anyways I'll try what i've done and see how it goes - its not a major job to convert them. Hopefully being as I dont have a heap of torque or a lot of weight there wont be a breakage.
You're right about the belt as well - i checked on SBD - i think i'll take everyones word about itlol
carried on with extending the roll cage and building the turrets up.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets007.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets008.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets010.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets011.jpg
Seeing as all the old timers are coming out of the woodwork in this thread... hello!! ;)
Looks good C! Sad to see the 1400 go pop but onwards and upwards I guess :D
Hi:) It was only a matter of time with my old engine seeing as it was always driven absolutely flat out on track with no mercy at all - TBH I was chuffed it lasted as long as it did.
Hope you are keeping well and perhaps catch up with sometime this summer?
Cheers mate:thumb:
Hi Lee,
Good to hear from you and thanx for all your advice about 1800's :) .
Must admit I'm pretty ignorant about the subject of rose joints - the ones I have fitted were scrounged of a crop sprayer!lol
Anyways I'll try what i've done and see how it goes - its not a major job to convert them. Hopefully being as I dont have a heap of torque or a lot of weight there wont be a breakage.
You're right about the belt as well - i checked on SBD - i think i'll take everyones word about itlol
no worries on the 1800 advice mate, hth:thumb: look forward to seing this all together again:)
Hi Lee,
I would like to second the thanks on the 1800 advice, bit rude of me no to get back to you. Your build looks pretty special too, long ay on from the old days when we met in MK and our first corner experience at Silverstone!
Back to topic, and I'm just jealous that I don't spend as much time as the lads at the farm working on the car/s.
Oh and Breeny, I believe that you have contibuted to this latest rebuild!
Wahey! What random part has found a use then?
C - Yeh meet up in the summer sounds like a good idea! :)
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets004-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets003-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets002-1.jpg
craig green
25-02-08, 09:05 PM
Top Job. Not entirely how I was expecting them to come out but nicely done.
Looked pretty tragic when just the lids were chopped off.
Hi Lee,
I would like to second the thanks on the 1800 advice, bit rude of me no to get back to you. Your build looks pretty special too, long ay on from the old days when we met in MK and our first corner experience at Silverstone!
Back to topic, and I'm just jealous that I don't spend as much time as the lads at the farm working on the car/s.
!
no worries mate, just figured you'd decided not to go that route, it is still a bit new to be the first option for a small block yet, should be interesting to see the results, but i wont call it special till it makes the numberslol
These pics show the extended rollcage pieces being welded in
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets010-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets008-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets007-1.jpg
A couple of pics of my bro's bargain track day basher. Ex race car - fully caged, plumbed in fire extinguisher, bucket seats, harnesses, decent Ohlin (I think) suspension etc etc ....was bought for the princely sum of ?2500. Cheap as chipslol Incidently dont be tempted to add those trumpet socks - they can lose you massive horsepower!
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets006-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaturrets005-1.jpg
blimey CP - those strut tops are brilliant!
Dont suppose you know the mod to adjust the camber on a 60mm drop do you! (seem to recall the "file the hub" mod and something about moving the strut top bolts by 7mm outwards???)
The beemer is fantastic - I always wanted one in that old shark nose style -
that beemer is lush. loving the triangulation aswell
Ade, I cant remember the exact details but what you said sounds right to me for getting the camber sorted something more appropriate for normal tyre wear and road use. TBH i would try those measurements and then if you have a good eye for whats straight and square you'll be able to ge a very good idea just by getting down low and looking at the front wheels from the front of the car when its parked on level ground. That'll get you ball park and you can then take some measurements to fine tune it more accurately
the novaload mod was to redrill/slot the top holes 1mm per 10mm of drop (moving the holes outwards to correct the neggy camber of lowering)
then weld washers ontop to stop it from moving.
craig green
28-02-08, 11:36 AM
then weld washers ontop to stop it from moving.
Yeah, I found doing up the top mount bolts extra tight with serated washers didnt help. Welded in washers are quite necessary.
Austin_Nova16
28-02-08, 12:31 PM
Loving the work Charles! Really good to see some new ideas about!
Nice Beemer aswell...Got something very similar up my workshop, although tripple webbers instead of TB's...
:thumb:.
All but finished the additions to the existing rolle cage. Got the side bars to go in still but once they are in I'll feel a whole lot safer:)
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/DSC00213.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/DSC00212.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/DSC00211.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/DSC00210.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/DSC00209.jpg
broster
10-03-08, 04:58 PM
moving on very quickly! looks good
craig green
10-03-08, 05:26 PM
Overall some really good fabrication work there.
I was concerned when I first saw the turret tops being cut but now they look fantastic. Hats off to you CP!
Managed to get some time to have a go at my car again. Main jobs today were to sort out where the dry sump oil resevoir should sit and drill a hole for the feed from the tank to the bottom of the pump.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/22307001.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/22307003.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/22307002.jpg
Whilst I was working in the area I needed to sort a hole for the gear lever arrangement which will go direct to the selector housing quaife style but in a straighter line requiring fewer U/J's. From my experience with doing similar mods, the steering rack tends to be in the way so I took the opportunity to move the steering rack mounting points upwards by cutting them out and re- welding them about 25 mm higher up. I was keen to do this cos my steering arms have been angled too far upwards for my liking since I lowered the car as much as I could to keep the centre of balance as low as possible.
I also elongated the hole for the steering wheel shaft.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/22307007.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/22307005.jpg
What on earth have you done to your brake pedal? lol
Great skills as normal Charlie :)
lol I noticed that as well and thought WTF and then realised its the throttle pedal which has been removed to allow for stitch welding:D
Had a bit of time spare today to look at sorting out a home made gear lever mechanism. Wasn't sure what to use as the main bearings/bushes for the connector bar from the lever assembly, thru the bulkhead into the engine bay. The bar has to move backwards and forwards as well as twist. Eventually I hit upon the idea of chopping up old shock absorbers and using them:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/24307001.jpg
From the debris I extracted the top seal and bush which go together on the shaft like so
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/24307002.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/24307003.jpg
Next I offered the whole lot upto the hole in the bulkhead to see how it came together
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/24307004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/24307005.jpg
With a bit of modding this will be welded in place at the the right angle to allow the shaft to be able to move in the correct alignment. If you compare pictures you can now see the value of moving the steering rack up
Austin_Nova16
24-03-08, 10:47 PM
Some great ideas! Loving the rack re-location!
Finally I had a go at making the gear lever assembly. Its not exactly going to be light but I haven't had to buy any new stuff so if I can get it to work ok I will have save shed loads of dosh. I've utilised another shocker and this time cut the main shaft and welded it together side by side to get the necessary offset. I've used the seal and bush in a similar manner to the previous pics so that when installed there will be 2 of these guides for the gear shaft to be located in. The gear lever rose joint assembly is one of my old tie bar mounts that I no longer need.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/24307006.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/24307007.jpg
Top work.
Lol @ chopping up a shock to make a gear linkage.
craig green
28-03-08, 02:00 PM
..NOW I AM IMPRESSED!
Grass roots modification at its best.
just read the whole thread, some very impressive ideas
McFall1984
31-03-08, 02:42 AM
intresting
Started to sort the connections for the gear lever connecting rod. Firstly I got a die out and created a threaded end on the gear lever assembly
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novaapril08001.jpg
When that was done I then attached the connecting rod which is galvanised steel electrical conduit using a threaded joiner
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novaapril08002.jpg
This fits nicely over the shock absorber piston rod
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novaapril08003.jpg
Next I mocked it up in the car with the existing standard gear lever still in place to show how much thinkgs are going to change
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novaapril08007.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novaapril08008.jpg
I also got round to welding in the support base for the dry sump engine oil reservoir
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novaapril08004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novaapril08005.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novaapril08006.jpg
lol, absolutley love the materials your using.
Any A team Gen?
not really been busy with work and I've been crook for the last fortnight but all 3 cars are being worked on intermittently - had a bit of a shock when we realised PV is in (I think) 5 weeks:confused: :eek:
Fantastic use of spare parts CP. Also, love the brake pedal mod :thumb: loopy left foot stylee lol
I've offered both CP and Jim a lift to PV!
MC
I've offered both CP and Jim a lift to PV!
MC
And rightly so since part of my car will be there ;)
krobinson
25-04-08, 06:21 PM
Unbelieveable work CP, legendary modification going on here!
The bulkhead bushing for the gear shaft welded in
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay08004.jpg
The base plate for mounting the gear lever assembly welded in place
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay08005.jpg
The gear lever assembly welded and painted
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay08006.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay08007.jpg
I'm not far off getting the inside prepped for painting so I had to sort out some other details one of which was some kind of battery holder where the passenger seat used to be. After a bit of prowling around amongst the junk in the work shop I came across a decent battery holder (off an electric wheel chair and no its not minelol )
So I constructed a steel frame out of 20 mm box thus
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay08002.jpg
This allows the battery box to go in like so
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay08003.jpg
I've got a couple of securing eyes to go in and the whole lot will be ratchet strapped down. Its a bit belt and braces but I never want to be a crashing car with a battery loose and flying around the cockpit:eek:
tom_beverley
02-05-08, 09:38 PM
Loving the gear lever mod, top work :thumb:
Any gen on that or is it a self concocted idea?
kenny_afh
04-05-08, 01:26 PM
some of the things im seeing here are really thinking outside the box. great stuff.
makes me wanna change my build and do whatever i like, rather than worry about regulations.
engine looks purposeful too!
having completed all welding it was time to clean up, make a spray booth and prep for painting
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay3rd08006.jpg
I bought some decent lights since good light is about the most important thing when painting.
I finished off some stuff inside the cabin namely a centre "console" that can be reached by the short **** who also drives the carlol
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay3rd08005.jpg
Next I went round all bare metal with Ferust 40 rust eater and then when this was dry oversprayed with silver hi zinc galvafroid in all the places that needed a good dollop of rust preventer or were gonna be difficult to get the spray gun to
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay3rd08007.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay3rd08008.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay3rd08009.jpg
The rest of the time was spent prepping i.e masking up and rubbing down with scotchbrite to give the new paint a decent key to adhere to
With nice warm condtions prevailing it was time to get the undercoat on
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay6th08007.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay6th08004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay6th08005.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay6th08006.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay6th08001.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay6th08002.jpg
This car is immense! Please tell me you are using the same colour scheme!!!
peester
07-05-08, 11:46 PM
woah! big jump... fast working mr CP
craig green
08-05-08, 10:18 AM
All good, though I think it deserves a new colour scheme.
lol, good old Charlie isnt biased. He'll paint anything, including the Handbreak lol
All will be revealed on the painting front. Admittedly I'm not being too fussy with time against me and the fact that its a trackday basher and not a show car but I did bother to mask the handbrake uplol
craig green
08-05-08, 02:56 PM
John Deere Green with Yellow wheels CP!
broster
10-05-08, 02:38 PM
looks awesome cp! some nice little one off touches!
The weather this weekend was ideal for paint spraying i.e. the mid 20's so Ive been cracking on
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside009.jpg
Firstly I assembled all the necessary materials. There's quite alot of stuff needed if you are applying 2 pack paint. Along with the paint itself (base and top coat) there are hardeners, thinners, special measuring sticks, mixing containers, a special mask (strictly speaking 2 pack should not be applied without a wearing a clean air respirator)special filters and pre paint cleaners
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside003.jpg
I use this range of wet and dry paper as the bare minimum. I could really do with some more P500. The smaller the number the co****r the paper. I like to use the scotch brite pads for a lot of prepping work cos they are quick but they do leave a lot of bits about.
One of the advantages of the 2 pack system is that it uses a universal guidance system to help you mix up the paint and hardener easily and accurately. The instructions are usually on ther side of the can and from this info you can select the appropriate measuring stick to use as shown below in the example. Its a primer filler and the paint is mixed with the hardener in a 5:1 ratio using measuring stick marked HS and use the stick as shown in a mixing container
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside008.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside010.jpg
The way i tackled the whole job was to spray the inside out fully and then mask it up again and spray the outside. Cos its a metallic paint it needs to have laquer coat to finish it off.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay6th08004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay6th08005.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Novamay6th08006.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedinside006.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedinside008.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedinside002.jpg
With the inside done I turned my attention to the exterior. I added the new wings and prepped them. Why do they always turn up dented and scratched?
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedinside005.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedinside001.jpg
Then I masked up again
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside001.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside007.jpg
Finally it was time to get cracking with the undercoat etc
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside011.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedinside007.jpg
Before finally getting the top coat
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside005.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside006.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside013.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novapaintedoutside014.jpg
Now that is lovely and subtle :)
Reminds me of dans !
Good colour choice, I remember this being an absolute beast @ llandow. Can't wait to see it sometime when it's back !
:)
Nice job that :)
Did you just do the spraying with a normal filter mask then??
craig green
12-05-08, 12:00 PM
Good colour choice, I remember this being an absolute beast @ llandow. Can't wait to see it sometime when it's back !
:)
Amen.
Really liking the colour on the inside. Will look great all over though. :thumb:
Nice job that :)
Did you just do the spraying with a normal filter mask then??
No its not a normal mask - its a special 3M one that I think is designed for general handling toxic material. The unofficial word is that they are so good that you can you use them safely for 2 pack. Certainly I have used them a fair bit and they are brilliant AFAIK. 2 pack solvents really reek with a strong sort of pear drop distinctive smell and you cant pick any trace of it whilst wearing them. I wouldn't even think about opening a can of the stuff without wearing one
craig green
12-05-08, 02:37 PM
Mmmmmm pear drops. That is correct.
No its not a normal mask - its a special 3M one that I think is designed for general handling toxic material. The unofficial word is that they are so good that you can you use them safely for 2 pack. Certainly I have used them a fair bit and they are brilliant AFAIK. 2 pack solvents really reek with a strong sort of pear drop distinctive smell and you cant pick any trace of it whilst wearing them. I wouldn't even think about opening a can of the stuff without wearing one
well neither of us have keeled over dead yet so the masks cant be that bad lol.
Its apprently mega toxic stuff, and needs a fully covered body suit etc too as it seeps into your skin
Its apprently mega toxic stuff, and needs a fully covered body suit etc too as it seeps into your skin
sme as my wifes cooking then
twistysnovagte
12-05-08, 08:10 PM
top work there mate its exactly what i want to do to mine,:( im taking its not the first time youve used the spray gun,as the finnish looks clean and neat;) tryin to find a small unit(for the right price of course)to do some work with the brother, wanting mine stripped and painted(thats if i dont give up and move on lol
It is pretty involved and pricey. TBH I have accumulated the wherewith all over the years but its probably very nearly as cheap and certainly easier if you do all the prepping and trailer your car as a rolling shell to the local paint job. Its not too difficult to do an ok job but its much more difficult to produce a finish upto professional standards. Its almost impossible for an amateur to control lighting, temperature, cleanliness etc etc without a proper spray booth and they are pricey
Its almost impossible for an amateur to control lighting, temperature, cleanliness etc etc without a proper spray booth and they are pricey
Hang on, are you saying the 20mm box section frame with yellow plastic sheeting and B&Q lighting ISN'T a proper spray booth? :confused: ;) :p
Hang on, are you saying the 20mm box section frame with yellow plastic sheeting and B&Q lighting ISN'T a proper spray booth? :confused: ;) :p
If you read what I said, Jim, you would have seen I mentioned the word "amateur" - I wasn't, of course, referring to myself. I was meaning someone like you:roll:
lol
castanhas_15td
13-05-08, 11:25 PM
great job!!
Got my seat:)
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaseatrandengine002.jpg
On a ghey note - I spent some time prepping and painting up my gear box only to find that cos it was an F10 it didn't fit. Doh! So that was a waste of time - I now need to sort an F13 casing:mad:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaseatrandengine011.jpg
Check with Stu, but I seem to remember him telling me the casings were identical..... what gearbox setup do/did you run anyway CP?
F10 wont fit over his 1600 fly, thats the prob Ash.
F10 has a smaller bell housing.
Seat looks cool :)
The Simps
15-05-08, 12:17 AM
Just been thru this whole thread and look forward to hearing the resulting feel on track!
Interested by the rack moving up mod. Might have to do that myself!
broster
15-05-08, 06:23 AM
spare f13 gearbox here, ill dig it out for you.
At one point there were three highly skilled technicians trying to get the box on, then some smart **** casually pointed out that it wasn't clearing the starter motor. Don't you just hate people like that!
I decided today that there was only one thing to be done and that was to convert my SCCR cluster and quaiffe diff into an F13 box that was handy. Only trouble was that it was out of an Astra with a hydraulic clutch so this meant making a bracket for a std manual clutch:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaseatrandengine015.jpg
which was bolted on like so
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaseatrandengine014.jpg
with the cable fitting like so
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaseatrandengine017.jpg
and in order to fit the diff I had to do the usual grind out of the FD casing like so
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaseatrandengine012.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaseatrandengine.jpg
Nice work on the clutch cable mount
Got the engine and box back together
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaenginein20thjun004.jpg
This was the uprated clutch release bearing to go with the clutch
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaenginein20thjun003.jpg
Engine and box in the car
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaenginein20thjun016.jpg
Got some issues to sort 1 of which is the possible fouling of the chassis leg by the oil pump pulley
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaenginein20thjun022.jpg
Sorted the gear linkage from the bulkhead to the gear box which utilises a half inch drive UJ from a socket setlol
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaenginein20thjun027.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaenginein20thjun028.jpg
Next modded up std seat attachment so that my new seat can be bolted to it
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaenginein20thjun015.jpg
trackdaynova
24-05-08, 07:02 PM
lol your ideas are fecking brilliant - loving the UJ from the socket set! :thumb:
Only problem now is that we can't get to any bolts at difficult angles! lol
trackdaynova
24-05-08, 08:04 PM
lol used your one and only UJ...cheaper than buying a "motorsport" on @ £79 each!!! ffs lol
Engine looks awesome :cool:
As for the dry sump pump, maybe ask lee303? I think he mounted his on the rear of the engine.
looking good cp:thumb:
i would mod the chassis rather than move the pump, as its quite involved, new mid plate for the pump etc etc i think i might need a clutch like yours, unless mine makes a miraculous recovery soonlol
Hmmm. Well for PV so long as it is doesn't rub badly (there's about 2 -3mm clearance at the mo) I'll leave it as is. There's sod all movement in the engine mounts so I may get away with it. My dad suggested machining a bit off the pulley which I may consider doing later.
The gear change set up seems to work fine and i'm really chuffed how well its turned out but it may not work so well on track. I remember Brett Warburton having trouble with his proper quaife set-up which for some reason worked fine until he was driving it anger and then it he had trouble with 3rd.
I've no idea how good the clutch is. I'm a bit worried about my quaife SCCR cluster - it got a fair beating by the 1.4. I may end up having to get a dog box
Loving some of the work in this thread.
(only just seen the pics)
peester
25-05-08, 12:36 AM
cool seat frameage CP.. that engine tho.. woooo, have a soft spot for dem multi throttle kits as u all know lol
The Simps
25-05-08, 06:10 PM
cool work.
what sort of angle are the steering arms sitting at now with the 25mm rise?
Rick Draper
25-05-08, 06:57 PM
Charles i would be removing the pump and giving the chassis leg a good ****ting. It would only take a few minuted compared to the costs of having it snag the leg a little and breaking the belt.
yeh you are probably right:(
broster
26-05-08, 07:53 PM
moving on quickly! impressive stuff
The following are a few random pics of the suspension and wheels going back on so I can assess what kind of ride height, camber and caster I've finally managed to achieve.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon001.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon004.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon003.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon010.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon007.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon002.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon009.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon008.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon005.jpg
vaughanmc
26-05-08, 10:10 PM
Looks mean from the front with no lights etc :)
Drivers side turning hard right
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon006.jpg
Passengers side turning hard right
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novawheelsbackon012.jpg
The Simps
26-05-08, 10:16 PM
looks pretty spot on that!
looks like the steering arms sit nice and straight too.
Nice work on those tie bars/bottom arms, they look the part.
I want that exhaust manifold :cool:
How did you manage to get the wheels on? Even stealing the wheel nuts isn't gonna stop this project!
broster
27-05-08, 12:58 PM
take his top water hose, that'll stop him.......... oh wait
craig green
27-05-08, 04:10 PM
I want that exhaust manifold :cool:
Useless to a big block traitor....
Great progress CP. The car is harcore!
Useless to a big block traitor....
PMSL
Check my wip thread mofo ;) :p lol
craig green
27-05-08, 04:25 PM
Will do.
Charles, what bushing is there on the front edge of the wishbones/old tie bar brackets. Is it just washers? !!
trackdaynova
27-05-08, 07:02 PM
looking fan.dabby.dozy!
will the serious driveshaft plunge not have any adverse affects on track?
It's not staying that low, just wound down for the photo. Needs to go up about 20mm.
Yes it is just washers, but bear in mind this car never does more than track day miles each year.
The photo doesn't do justice to the amount of negative camber there is. Awesome!
trackdaynova
27-05-08, 07:52 PM
fantastic news mate! really good to see some pics :) :thumb:
It's not staying that low, just wound down for the photo. Needs to go up about 20mm.
Yes it is just washers, but bear in mind this car never does more than track day miles each year.
The photo doesn't do justice to the amount of negative camber there is. Awesome!
what he said - I thinklol
I'm just ****ing about with ideas I get from looking at proper competition kit - who knows how it will turn out. I don't really know what I'm doing but I enjoy trying :)
trackdaynova
28-05-08, 07:24 AM
and thats all that matters! :D experimenting is where it's at :cool:
Tail gate offered up with top securing points in place
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/nova005.jpg
Rear bumper going on
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/nova006.jpg
Battery going in
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/nova004.jpg
seat in
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/nova003.jpg
ECU going in
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/nova002.jpg
and finally - I turn my back for 5 minutes and these 2 monkeys start slacking off:roll: lol
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/nova001.jpg
Mark in No Legs shocker :eek: :eek: :eek:
trackdaynova
28-05-08, 09:59 PM
so whose who in that photo? having not met either of you?
cracking progress - love 'the building up' of a car, tis awesome seeing the pics!
loving all your photos... where did you get your fibreglass tailgate from?
RobMarriott
28-05-08, 10:01 PM
After tonight, I've decided, I want a barn. and another Vauxhall. and some slaves.
It was good to have a closer look at this after seeing the build progress.
so whose who in that photo?
Jim on the left, MC on the right.
That used to be the entire membership of www.tight****club.com (http://www.tight****club.com) until Mark succumbed lol
peester
28-05-08, 10:09 PM
looks damn good..
Lol @ Lee. Thats MC actually standing up - yes he is that short. He's whats known in engineering circles as "oversquare" i.e he's wider than he is tall and its mainly cos Jims a feeder. He wants us so obese that we can't get in and drive and he can have the car to himselflol
The tailgate is courtesy of Jim - he probably stole it being as he is from up north
I can put up with this abuse safe in the knowledge that I am considerably smarter than Yow! Didn't mention the fuel hose progress Charlie?
The wiring loom is started, think it may take some time, but we only have about six circuits so it could be worse.
Want know how to sort that most awkward of prickly customer ie the braided hose? I think I've found a reasonably foolproof way to avoid getting a finger full of holes and lot of mangled ends that aren't made properly.
The hose in question is an Earls -6 JIC petrol pipe and associated fittings
1. Tightly wrap a bit of insulation tape no more than twice round where you want to cut the pipe. About 3/4s the way along this apply a zip tie as tight as poss.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Dc387.jpg
Next cut the pipe tight to the zip tie on the side showing th least amount of tape. You can use a junior hacksaw or as in my case an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc. Watch your eyes:eek:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Dc388.jpg
remove the zip tie
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Dc389.jpg
The braid should still be reasonably intact and not unravelled too much which allows the tightening collar to be slid over the end and along the pipe. The reason that the insulation tape is only wrapped twice round is to make sure there's enough clearance to allow the collar to slide over it/ A bit of WD40 greatly helps the job along when it comes to sliding things into place
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Dc390.jpg
next remove the tape and allow the braide to unravel enough to be able slide the tapered insert to slide over the inner pipe and under the braid
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Dc391.jpg
Then put the other parts together thus
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Dc392.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Dc393.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Dc394.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/Dc396.jpg
Since I've already blown the budget out of the water and the gearbox has to come out I decide to finish the project off with this
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone001.jpg
and one of these so i can actually get out of the carlol
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone002.jpg
I was well impressed with the spec and quality of this for about £30 delivered from off FleaBay. Fortunately I'm almost fluent in Mandarin so the fitting instructions were a god send lol
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone003.jpg
Since I've already blown the budget out of the water and the gearbox has to come out I decide to finish the project off with this
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone001.jpg
Tasty :cool::cool:
trackdaynova
10-06-08, 10:02 PM
Lovely bits CP thats the same snap-off I have its awesome!
Was great to meet yourself, MC and Jim (at last) on Sunday.
So when we gonna be out on track then?
Lovely bits CP thats the same snap-off I have its awesome!
Was great to meet yourself, MC and Jim (at last) on Sunday.
So when we gonna be out on track then?
Likewise:)
Um hopefully not too long - just got get the box out and built up. Think I'm going to uprate the wheel bearings to Gp A spec whilst the fronts apart again. We (MC) is pretty convinced that the brake problem we have is "knock back" otherwise known as wheel wobble about the hub which pushes the pads off the discs. The discs are quite large and the pads are very easily moved back off them. We're hoping that bigger stronger bearings will help. I need to investigate the spring loaded pad retainers to see if they can be made to stop the pads from moving so easily.
I need also to sort out cooling to the discs - the temperatures that we have recorded are excessive to the point where the wheel bolts get so hot that they come loose. If you tighten them and dont slacken them off before they cool right down they become bastid tight. Its only going to be a matter of time before we come unstuck with them
Rick Draper
10-06-08, 11:27 PM
Charles you homo. Doing braided lines is easy, first decided and mark where you want to cut it with insulation tape, cut the hose with a dremel fitted with a cutting disk, slide the fitting over the freshly cut end, then press the braid back with a small flat screwdriver, then press the brass fitting in-place onto a flat hard surface, fit male part and tighten up. Used this was countless times and never been stabbed. Then again i aint a southern jessie!
lol stop bullying me
anyway why weren't you at PV? :D
I know the real reason - you were scared that you might get beaten up by some real men;)
Love your car Charles, very inspiring.
Good to see you guys at PV too :)
hybridturbo
11-06-08, 06:46 PM
Very nice bit of kit
Loving some of the custom bits youve done :thumb:
Rick Draper
11-06-08, 07:14 PM
lol stop bullying me
anyway why weren't you at PV? :D
I know the real reason - you were scared that you might get beaten up by some real men;)
lol lol What shandy drinking southeners!
Nar i was in Johannesburg with work. Little interest with shows anymore, aint been to one since PV2005 or 2006 i think it was and that was only to collect some bits.
your car is stunning cp, a real credit to you!
(glad my snowplough went to a good home!)
Rick Draper
11-06-08, 08:03 PM
O BTW the freshen up looks great charles, looks miles sleaker in silver.
trackdaynova
11-06-08, 08:15 PM
As its your build thread guys, here are some pics I took at the PV show, hope you like them :thumb:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/NCPV61.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/NCPV56.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/NCPV55.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/NCPV54.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/NCPV52.jpg
peester
12-06-08, 10:58 AM
amen.
Thanks for those Olly. :thumb:
BTW have I mentioned before what an excellent photographer and alround nice bloke Olly is? ;)(creep creep):D
O BTW the freshen up looks great charles, looks miles sleaker in silver.
Glad you like it. Its to do with matching the company livery
I can't claim its been all my own work or ideas
Its been a joint effort between me Mark and Jim with a bit of help from Dan. Cheers guys:thumb:
Just got to get it running now
craig green
12-06-08, 01:20 PM
Likewise. I thought it looked Ace on Sunday Charles. Lovin the colour sceme, be a shame to stuff that rare SR fr bumper into anything though.
Can't think what you mean, who would stuff it into a tyre wall? lol
trackdaynova
13-06-08, 03:54 PM
CP/MC/Jim
Not going to post the photos direct, as they're mahoooooosive, so please rick click save as the pics in the links as I dont think they'll be allowed on photobucket too long.
There are some extras in there that I've not posted yet
Hope you like them :thumb:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/PV08221.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/PV08222.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/PV08223.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/PV08224.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/PV08225.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/PV08226.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/PV08227.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/PV08228.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q161/neocapture/PV2008/PV08229.jpg
thanks again for those olly- very good of you cheers:thumb:
Been having a go sorting out my dog box
The cluster on the left is a quaife 5SCCR one - the other is a std cluster. Note the straight cut teeth on the SCCR but otherwise the clusters are identical using std synchro packs
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone007.jpg
The dog cluster- note wide larger straight cut gears and no synchro packs when compared to the 5SCCR
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone014.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone010.jpg
A little more detail
Dog engagement arrangement
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone009.jpg
Uprated bronze selector forks compared to std ones
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone011.jpg
Fitting it is a complete cluster strip down. The kits comes with a modified end plate which contains bearing for the shafts to locate into and new selector slide bars which have different holes drilled for the new selector forks and also the travel of the components is reduced by having the indents for the spring located locator nibs slightly closer together thus
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone012.jpg
Rick Draper
22-06-08, 01:21 AM
Fitting it is a complete cluster strip down. The kits comes with a modified end plate which contains bearing for the shafts to locate into and new selector slide bars which have different holes drilled for the new selector forks and also the travel of the components is reduced by having the indents for the spring located locator nibs slightly closer together thus
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone012.jpg
**** me they ar hands that have never done a honest days work in there lifelol lol
:confused: got this left over from assembling my dog cluster - anyone know what its for?:confused:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone015.jpg
lol not the magnet - the pin
Dogbox = coolness
Got a feeling that its fitted inside one of the shafts, same as the standard one. I'll got check mine later. I assume the magnet is there for scale referance.
EDIT: Didn't show your second post at first lol
looks good cp! that pin does look suspisciously like a roller from a bearing though, which could be not great news if you've built it all up now, magnet goes in a slot in the casing iirc
Count Vaux Alot
22-06-08, 10:21 PM
top job love the build!
looks good cp! that pin does look suspisciously like a roller from a bearing though, which could be not great news if you've built it all up now, magnet goes in a slot in the casing iirc
No its not out of a bearing, they are complete with nothing to fall out - it came in a seperate packet with circlips and roll pins etc. I'm wondering if its something to do with the selector turret assembly - I dont have the uprated one at the moment:confused:
BTW Lee i found out the problem with the clutch apparently not biting - ahem:roll: :gay:
The splined input shaft that slides through the clutch was too small. The 5SCCR is std sized. The AP clutch pack is made specifically for the dog box which has a large diameter splined shaftlol . So i had effectively rigged it with the input shaft not actually touching the splines of the clutchlol muppet!
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone020.jpg
In order to fit a dog box material from the gear box has to be removed (similar stylee to fitting quaife ATB LSD) here:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone016.jpg
and here
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone017.jpg.
Other jobs. Sorted out the chassis leg where the oli pump sprocket gets in the way
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone018.jpg
and fitted my snap off steering wheel
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone019.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone021.jpg
d'you know, i did think of asking if you needed to change the clutch plate to suit the box! at least its an easy fix! rolling road for me tommorow for final tweeks and graph etc, then i need to remove my gearbox on tuesday night to fix a leaking slave cylinder, and am driving to germany on thursaday! deep joy
:confused: got this left over from assembling my dog cluster - anyone know what its for?:confused:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb125/cpnova/novaalmostdone015.jpg
Found it - quaife's website have exploded diagrams of their boxes.
Its a dowell on the output shaft which means its all got to come apart again:mad:
Count Vaux Alot
23-06-08, 08:57 PM
Found it - quaife's website have exploded diagrams of their boxes.
Its a dowell on the output shaft which means its all got to come apart again:mad:
BUGG+R!! :mad: :mad:
Stunning weapon dude.
Had a good look at pv, is very well done.
How come you dont mount the pump on the back of the engine? wouldnt there be more room there? Like lee303 has.
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