smooth boot

[General Baxter]

Cut the lower section of the boot skin off (like Burgo did for Baxter), then take a sheet of new steel,

or fibreglass

[mikey14sr]

Cut the lower section of the boot skin off (like Burgo did for Baxter), then take a sheet of new steel,

or fibreglass

Either way if the drain holes had been blocked in the past at least you can get good access to the framework and give it a good clean up and rust-proofing. :idea:

[burgo]

This is the way I would do it, it would take a while but at least you can ensure that the actual boot frame is rust-free as your doing it.

Cut the lower section of the boot skin off (like Burgo did for Baxter), then take a sheet of new steel, cut it so that it overlaps the edge of the frame work at the sides and bottom (about 13mm should do), remembering to leave extra for the gap in the middle, get a local fabricators to fold the edges to 90 degrees, offer up to the frame, fold right over the sides(crimp on with a door skinning tool),trim the lower edge to fit and then spot weld the sides and seam weld the top and bottom an inch each side at a time to avoid the new skin warping.

If I do decide to do one for mine I'll do a step-by-step photo guide.

good luck :wink:

[General Baxter]

, its not that bad was it luke

[burgo]

, its not that bad was it luke

yeah only about 20 hours work, closer to 30 if your in experienced

[mikey14sr]

This is the way I would do it, it would take a while but at least you can ensure that the actual boot frame is rust-free as your doing it.

Cut the lower section of the boot skin off (like Burgo did for Baxter), then take a sheet of new steel, cut it so that it overlaps the edge of the frame work at the sides and bottom (about 13mm should do), remembering to leave extra for the gap in the middle, get a local fabricators to fold the edges to 90 degrees, offer up to the frame, fold right over the sides(crimp on with a door skinning tool),trim the lower edge to fit and then spot weld the sides and seam weld the top and bottom an inch each side at a time to avoid the new skin warping.

If I do decide to do one for mine I'll do a step-by-step photo guide.

good luck :wink:

The challenge is on, as soon as I find a spare bootlid!

[lee coley]

ive done a few,cut a piece of door skin out 2 shape with the bottom lip bent under tack into place then seam weld the plate bit by bit swaping from 1 side to another,grind the weld down and skim from 1 side of the tail gate to the other with filler.

[jonny_mcc]

Drill a small hole from the inside (or use the existing number plate square holes) and back fill with expending foam to seal the job filly from the inside.

Ade

Ade, would it not be better just to pump in some waxoyle instead of expanding foam as the foam hold any water causing rust from the inside?

J

[ade]

depends - expanding foam will stop the panel flexing and help with sound deadening. You could seal it 1st with suitable rust inhibitor paint before applying foam though I suppose. Just make sure the drainage holes aint blocked...

[rednova]

i cut out the shape with a grinder aswel m8 then jst tydied up the edges wiv a dremel before welding it on!!!

have you made another tailgate? last time i looked you had my old one on:D

Phil