DIY Respray
i am thinking of spraying my nova my self and have a few questions on how i should do it
What should i remove from the car b4 i start spraying it?
what paint is best 2 use? (i wanna spray it Black) where can i get it from?
i know that a lot of prep work is needed but how do i no wen ive done enough and is there any sanding tools i can use 2 make it easier?
can I coat the car in anything after ive painted it?
How long should it take?
thanxs 4 any help :D
look at the bodywork prep stuff at the top of the forum
many questions - I did mine (twice) and its a pig but very satisfying.
1. depends on state of car and what you want to achieve. If theres rust -remove it fully. If you are changing the colour you need really to strip the car right down and spray shell, then panels, then rebuild - you could do one more coat to make sure all panels have same shade (more noticeable on red or lighter coloured cars).
2. get your self a "how to do bodywork book". Haynes do an excellent one. Theres also "how to paint you car" (www.motorbooks.com)
fantastic book - colour pics tells u everything.
3. 2 paint types - cellulose and 2 pak. 2 pak is best but deadly (cyanide based) - you need special breathing apparatus (fresh air respirator) and you should use a proper ventellated area (I used a double garage - needed an extractor - but you then need to use filters!). Cost of paint varies - you will need (depending on extent of prep work) etch primer to seal all exposed metal, primer filler (evern out dips and scratches - optional), primer surfacer, top coat. then plastic primer, maybe an elastosizer for rubber bits (spoilers), mixing tools, measure sticks, spray gosm compressor filters etc. you will also need a lacquer top coat if using metilic or cellulose (2pak doesnt need it). You'll need a mastic aswell to replace panels that are sealed and masking tape (proper car tape not the kak from B&Q) and some masking film/sheets or if you have to newspaper.
3. prep work - 80% of body shop time is spent dismantling and prepping the car for spraying. The final coat will reflect the exact quality of the prep - so if you skip owt, it will show - and so will the rust very quickly afterwards if the panels are not prepared properly.
There are lots of stages - starting off with flatting the initial paint, removing rust, cleaning back, smoothing, filling, sanding etc...the further you go, the finer the sanding paper you use so that when you scome to spray the top coat you are flatting back the primer using 1000grit wet n dry. there is also a technique to using the paper - eg - only use wet on final coats/lacquers - not on primer or filler as they absorb water - rust! basic tools and equipment inc hiring spray gun, respirator etc will prob set you back ?500+ paint, thinners, masking tape etc will prob cost about ?200ish maybe more depending on what you need and colour.
4. You need to maks off all areas you dont want to spray and observe the way you mask to avoid hard spray lines.
5. Once sprayed and flatted, you then need to buff up using a buffer - not an attachment on a drill but a proper buffing machine - you need to be very careful not to burn the paint on edges. Depends on paint when you do this - 2 pak - 24/48 hrs after spraying - longer yoiu leave it harder it is. Cellulose - usually after 10 days. Bnoth paints - avoid rain or water slashed drying for several days as these can stain paint.
6. The car must be immaculately clean and degreased before spraying any layer - use degreaser/panel wipe tack cloths etc and makje sure spray area is spotless. Dust overspray collects and settles on new paint spoiling finish (I know its a nightmare!)
7. If youve got some experience in spraying and youre doing the whole car and have basic set up - depending on extent of job allow a week (strip down, derust, fill, prep prime, flat, prime again, flat, top coat, flat, lacquer (optnl), flat, buff, rebuild.
8. If youre doing something small like a panel (wing) - then you could use cans.
I recommend if you are serious think long and hard 1st - do a time plan of work - walk around the car and list what you want to do - mark all areas to fix.
Get the above books and read them a few times
practice spraying - I cannot emphasise enpugh how important this is - I've resprayed my car twice now = 1st time with cans and 2nd time with a spray gun and 2pak paint - both times I had runs, dry matks, splatters etc. these all need to be flatted back and done again!
Seriously consider a body shop - 1 for the hastle free life you will have and 2 depending on the job and statre of your car you will find that it might not be much cheaper than what you have to fork out to do it yourself. Plus it will be a pro finish...
Hope this helps
Ade
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