*HOW TO* Corsa brake servo setup

PARTS

Take one complete Master cylinder/servo setup from a scrap Corsa. Also get the strengthning plate below it.

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/463.JPG

FITTING

Position the Corsa plate in the right position, you'll be looking roughly here in the battery tray:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/464.JPG

Holesaw or cut a square hole for the assembly to drop through roughly in the right position as so:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/470.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/465.JPG

You'll find the pedal is far too long, but don't worry yet:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/466.JPG

Weld in the tray when you know it's in the right position:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/471.JPG

I added drainage grooves and lots of seam sealer to stop water sitting:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/744.JPG

As for final mounting, I rotated the assembly to sit like this, as it cleared the scuttle and bonnet better:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/718.JPG

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/721.JPG

PEDAL

Next you'll need to cut/shut the Corsa pedal. I used a Nova pedal:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/514.JPG

Welded to a Corsa one:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/515.JPG

And braced it both sides with thick plate:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/752.JPG

ADDITIONAL BRACING

It's well worth bracing the assembly using an existing Nova pedal setup, as you may find the bulkhead flexes when depressing the pedal hard:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/516.JPG

All fitted:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/518.JPG

BRAKE LINES

For brake lines, I was making up some custom lines, but consider using the Corsa 4 way distribution block on the bulkhead:

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/733.JPG

Did you just use the top port to run both front and the bottom port to run both rears?

Yep. If you used the Corsa distribution block then you could do the proper diagonal split though (just means running 2 lines to the rear)

Very handy. I fancy doing this, but was a bit worried about what needed doing under the dash. As i remember James (count vaux) doing alot more cutting and welding and bits.

Thank you IaIn.

That's a good guide. Have you got any kind if bias adjustment. It doesn't look to have any restrictor and is it also ok to use on a rear disc conversion.

With a single line to the rear I have used a Wilwood in line bias valve. I've had this on for both drums and rear discs. Its recommended.

I just fitted a nova mc

Good right up

What did you do about supporting the clutch pedal?

Cut down the main pivot rod, cut down a brake pedal, and weld it to the scuttle. At least that's what it looks like I did, don't really remember lol

http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2/517.JPG

Does the pivit bit not need to go in to the brake pedal casing like bit?
That was one bit i was thinking would be a bit harder.

Nope.

Ah. Maybe that isn't needed then... Count Vauxs write up, he cut the nova one out and welded it back in after lots of moving and adjustment. That was one bit i didn't like.. But you've clearly tested yours well.

I nicked bracing the Corsa bracket with the Nova stuff from him (relieves stress on the scuttle area), but I think he modified the Corsa bracket to take the clutch pivot, whereas I welded a bracket to the shell for that part.

Ah so one replaces the other. Nice.

I really fancy doing this mod you see.

I've done the same as Iain, but I bolted instead of weld

Im not totally happy with it that way, going to weld a bolt on the shaft bit and then bolt through the Corsa pedal box bit, as there is some movement as it is now

Good info here how to overcome the issue

http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthr...amp-Servo-Info

Ah see know i've seen what you did and looking back at what James didn't doesn't look as bad.

This was the bit i didn't like...


http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g.../engbay203.jpg

Recent experience has shown something like the above may well be better than the upside down welded pedal... I can't remove my clutch assembly without stripping out the heater matrix.

Few things i need to add.

If your doing this job with the dash/heater matrix in place.

The heater box is in the way of the brake bar (big bar from pedal to servo) Will need to be cut out.

The steering column is in the way of getting the pedals out.
Column will need to be removed. The speedo cable needs to be removed too.

You doing this conversion at the moment Benn?

will be undertaking this myself in a week or two

I might be lol

Haha I've stripped a corsa today so I've got all the bits to attempt it now, just got to get myself a welder, been thinking of using corsa clutch pedal too to save altering the nova one

No clue what the corsa pedal is like so.

You don't modify the Nova pedal you just need to support the pivot rod at the top, not the end of the world.

I know it's not the end of the world but I'm hoping to use the corsa bracket or modified corsa bracket for the coloum so seeing as the clutch bolts to that and the bulkhead I thought I'd give it ago,

can't remember if my new shell had peddles in it or not actually lol

I've done this on 2 rally cars my rally car has a unreal brake real responsive all good my da's car has a spongy pedal we've tried adjusting the rod that adjusts you pedal and we've tried a brand new master cylinder but no luck any suggestions?

Your da's cars have the Corsa set up or still Nova?

The corsa set up

Odd, All the brakes full bled? Rears working ok?

Gonna add in a few bits of info i did on mine that's different to Iain on page 1.

I didn't like the way the clutch support bracket was done. So i did a mix of both. So i cut a hole in the corsa braking bracket then used the Nova support bracket cut and welded on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psdmpmjww4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psgfxgifn1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psolkex8io.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps4jhtmsgg.jpg

Strong as anything. supports the clutch arm great too.

This is the plate that sits under the servo. The two rear lumps that have the bolt holes in them need to be cut off.
As it's too big for the Nova scuttle tray. Meaning it will sit in the wrong place and not sit flush. EVEN if you dent the firewall in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps9p7bd4ca.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psbtc5odus.jpg

Yea all brakes working even got a pressure bleeder and go all the air out off the system

Hhhmm bit off. Pedal all connected up ok?

Yep were both mechanics and it has us puzzled just thought someone might of had a similier problem maybe change the survo or look for a swollen pipe

Only unusual thing I can think of bar the usual trapped air etc is size of caliper pistons not suiting the size of the master cylinder. What calipers?

Any more pics when fitted Ben is it tight to fire wall. I'm looking into doing this

It could be calipers the compbrake 4 pots. can you get a different master cylinder for them ?

It'll be down to caliper piston sizes if that is the actual cause. Seems unlikely but if you research it it can lead to spongy pedals.

If you're looking at changing the MC again and it's a rally car you might as well go for a split system pedalbox and choose your master cylinder sizes.

Hello Iain I am in process of doing this conversation have u got any more pictures of the clutch pedal as just need to look from anther angle

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nathan.chivrall

Hello Iain I am in process of doing this conversation have u got any more pictures of the clutch pedal as just need to look from anther angle

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I can take some which angle do you want?

What vac pipe are you using?

I made mine up, just get some servo hose, use the Nova ends and 1way valve.