*HOW TO* Rose jointed Linkage

Thread: *HOW TO* Rose jointed Linkage

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  1. Dan Stanley's Avatar

    Dan Stanley said:

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    Really want to have a go at this, but can't weld. Ive read through this article and am a little confused as to whether I can just cut threads or have to weld. Can anyone help me out with some advice?
    I'd like to adapt my standard linkage to be a shortshift also, with new nylon bushes and a standard under car nova gear selector on a corsa F15 'box.
    PM me if you can help, or offer a pre-made example please.

    Thanks
     
  2. Wazza30 said:

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    Hi guys will this work on a linkage that's on a f28 box? As want to do it to mine but want to make sure the list that was given in previous posts is the same as doing it on a linkage for f28. Or has anyone done one on a f28?
     
  3. Novasport's Avatar

    Novasport said:

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    Made a first attempt at making a rose jointed linkage. I am not too keen on the vertical positioning of the rose joints as to me the force on them is working the wrong way.
    I have cut off all the old ball joints and cups and had the holes where the balls were welded up. I have drilled the front and rear rods to accept an M8 rose joint and bolted the joint to the main pivot with a cap head screw with a 10mm deep, 12mm OD spacer to try to put the joints in a similar position to the originals. Still a work in progress and there are little changes I would make if I did it again.



     
  4. therealnovaboy said:

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    I think you might have done that the wrong way round. you might struggle to move the gearstick left and right. IE you'll struggle to get reverse and 5th
     
  5. Novasport's Avatar

    Novasport said:

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    There is quite a lot of movement left to right so dont think it will be an issue looking at the throw on a standard linkage.
    I can have a chamfer machined on the shoulder of the spacer and the underside of the bolt if required which will allow more movement.
    I have a Griffith Quickshift which works the same way. It is still a work in progress so we will see. I just think it looks a lot neater this way.
     
  6. Iain's Avatar

    Iain said:

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    I've tried several iterations with the rosejoints both ways round. Yes it does depend on amount of movement and what bolts/misalignment gear you're running, but in my experience RJs bolted through the ? shaped metal does work better. There's more left-right movement required than forwards-backwards.
     
  7. Iain's Avatar

    Iain said:

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    For anyone using the cheaper range of McGill ones, expect to replace them in your linkage after so many thousand miles (15-20k?)
     
  8. C16xe said:

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    Quote Originally Posted by Iain View Post
    I've tried several iterations with the rosejoints both ways round. Yes it does depend on amount of movement and what bolts/misalignment gear you're running, but in my experience RJs bolted through the ? shaped metal does work better. There's more left-right movement required than forwards-backwards.
    Iain, in your experience do you recommend it as Novasport has done above? Or the actual rose joint male part bolted through the U shaped part?
    Last edited by C16xe; 17-02-19 at 09:03 AM.
     
  9. Iain's Avatar

    Iain said:

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    Quote Originally Posted by C16xe View Post
    Iain, in your experience do you recommend it as Novasport has done above? Or the actual rose joint male part bolted through the U shaped part?
    I'm sure I've done mine the other way round - Male part of RJ through the ?

    There's more movement across left/middle/right/reverse than forwards backawards from what I remember.

    I had various issues with them undoing themselves, but not touched my RJ linkage in years after changing it to this way round.