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Thread: My fire burned rebuild

  1. #11
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    So on to today, was quite a laugh, with a good lunch break for Pizza hut (not pasta hut yet lmao)

    And primed


    Hammerite smooth black for the roof and bulkhead, paint will never had stayed on parts of it, so it was a case of remove rust and slosh on hammerite. Look ok.



    Then primered the dash area


    Then primered bare metal parts on floor, and it was ready for a coat of paint.


    Then onto the fun, painting... I have a 3hp 50L compressor, I've borrowed a 2.6kW generator (sounds big), my compressor has a rating of 20A, the generator puts out 9.xA It kept cutting out when it filled up, used for prolonged time. So I used the one in my Van we use for tyres, 0.5hp 8L 12V lmao It worked, although I had to keep waiting.



    High power output, boy!


    Whatever tool used, it went on thats the main thing:D



    Then the lil compressor that had been working overtime, died!


    Luckily, a moment of awesome bodgeness sorted it. Some 7.5mm fuel hose, and cuttings from the standard plastic hose meant to fill out the gap meant it still lives:D

    and TA-DA, all painted up, drying as we speak






    Not bad finish really, looks better than it was before and it's in 2K :D

  2. #12
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    What the cage look like.... Got to get new bolts tomorrow and bolt it up


    Discreet through the 'window'


    Looks good against the carbon!

  3. #13
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    lmao Guessed to soon, I liked the Lee's space comment though.
    Plans are:
    SBD slipper pistons (now just omega 87mm)
    SBD Long steel rods . (normal length rods)
    Kent cams (have these)
    (Home) Ported polished head with +1mm paul ivey valves (have)
    Solid lifters
    Double valve springs (got)
    SBD type C with current exhaust (already on the car)
    Pimp juice
    Hellier baffled sump (until dry sump money is available)
    No nitrous...

    Hoping for around 250bhp.

  4. #14
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    So I did some work on the Nova today:D:D:D
    Most of the time was take putting together a list of what was needed in the way of parts.
    So first thing was to bolt the rack on properly, grease it up enough and then finish it off.
    Greased up.



    Boots on.


    I even spent a few mins aligning the tracking (by eye) so that the car was easy to push! The quickrack is great, a little input equals aloy of output at the wheel.

    Then it was onto fire extinguisher. I read the manual (don't usually), as I don't want to install it wrong and find out when it's needed. Now it states to put one nozzle in the engine bay and one in the cockpit. Experiance tells me my cockpit doesn't burn :rolleyes: so i'm thinking where to put my 2nd jet. Lee303 said I should put it by the fuel pumps (which on my car is inside near the back) I was thinking of another one in the engine bay. I still hadn't decided so i've only fitted the one while I think where to put the other. After much thought and planning I decided that I would mount the extinguisher itself behind the passenger seat, in the cage safety area. It also means the extra weight is between the wheels and not behind the rear wheels.





    The jet mounted, I chose here as it would cover the tbs and fuel lines well. The jets cover 90deg, so it would mean it will cover the engine and regulator to the left. The jets cover a meter in distance.



    Underneath...




    .

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    Well today was the day to go up and fit my brake pipes and finish the extinguisher. As per recently nothing ever goes how you want it.
    I was playing with the steering rack and noticed it moved, I also noticed the n/s bracket wasn't tight, so I started to wind the nut tighter and snap. Bolt broke, not an easy fix as you can't get behind the bolt. Trip to b&q and an 8mm bosch drill bit later I had drilled out the old stud. I cut down a 13mm bolt and was able to manouver it into position. Then i refitted the rack, luckily it was this one that went as the others are not at all accesable. It turns out the rack mount holes were slightly too small for the thread, I run the 8mm bit down it, and it then fitted up and I now have no rack movement.
    As you can see it's the bottom bolt here...



    all bolted up again everything in place as it should be:D
    Will get a Nyloc nut, or met lock for it.



    Thanks to Lee for the phone support, I lost my temper with the car by this point

    Then I made the front lines, it's so much easier than copper pipe lines. I've done both the front lines, although I will re make the n/s/f as I don't really like how it's routed.



    I've mated the brakelines to normal goodrich braided hoses, like this I retain standard fixing point. When I get the wilwoods however I will have to renew the banjo end.



    My windscreen turned up today, well chuffed with it. Looks great. Hopefully I can work on the car tomorrow and start with what I was meant to do today.

  6. #16
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    Some of my new parts waiting to be fitted.
    +1mm Paul Ivey valves, exhaust and waisted inlet.



    Brian spec (SBD) omega 87mm pistons



    6 point Sabelt harness



    New alloy pasenger footrest


  7. #17
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    So todays update.
    I pushed the car out and jacked up the rear. I then set about removing the old lines and whatnot.



    As you see here, I bought some M10x1 to JIC-3 convertors, this saves faffing about if I ever need to mkae new lines.



    The old lines.




    One hose made and fitted.



    Through 'bulkhead' T-piece, I decided the T can sit underneath and the main in line on top.


  8. #18
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    How to make braided brake lines.
    Cut the hose to the length you need it to be. I used side cutters (mine are really good) this left a perfect straight cut (very important). If you cut them with a hacksaw use a fine blade and masking tape where you cut (stops the braided fraying).



    While the ends are still unfrayed slide the union onto the line, remembering they should be facing either way, this saves annoying situations later.



    Using a screwdriver, push back the end of the braiding, this is so you can fit the shouldered olive on the end. Trim braid as required.



    Olive fitted under the braiding, the shoulder should sit flush with the end of the inner pipe. Once again trim any extra braid.



    Then push the otherside of the fitting into the pipe, and screw the end of the pipe. Before I did this I made sure the pipe fitting was right out to the olive, and marked the pipe to fitting with a line, this is so when tightening up the fitting you can be sure the fitting hasn't come off the pipe slightly.


    Do the same the otherside, and wala one pipe fit for a king (or my nova)


  9. #19
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    So with a few hours to spare this morning I got on with the head. As I type this I can't feel my fingers lmao
    Taking pictures of ports are a nightmare, however these are mid stage pics.
    As you may remember i'm using +1mm Paul Ivey valves and so the ports are larger than your usual port job. The pics don't really show the work great, however I put a few up so you can get the idea. One port down 7 to go.
    Valve area.



    Port


  10. #20
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    That's a rough rebuild diary. I'll try remember to update it when I do the mig one.

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