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Thread: Merit to gsi project

  1. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iain View Post
    Preferable to keep the fuel relay so it not still pushing fuel when the engine cuts out. Can't tell if you've bypassed it with that wiring.

    Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
    I've wired it up so that the pump runs when ignition is on, it shuts off when I turned ignition off.
    Cant work out why it won't work on the relay so this will suffice for now.

    Left to do is
    Bleed brakes.
    Sort passenger wing out (bit of rust on the bit that hides under bumper)
    Fit coolant, ancillary and breather hoses when they come
    Wheels refurb and new tyres
    Get an exhaust from manifold back

    Then just a full detail of the car, I've got grinding rust dots all over it *rolls eyes* so might have to 2000 wet and dry it then buff it back up.

    Another month or 2 and will be ready for MOT *fingers crossed

    Just finished fitting interior, just centre consols and shelves to put in once I've done the gear linkage.......which I'm struggling with because I don't see where I have to put a drill hit on the selector any help with pics welcome haha

    Slimline fan is fit, digi clocks are done and in.
    Also a pic of the grinding dust rust......ffs

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

  2. #232
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    Dash looks good . As for the removing the grinding rust off the paint you can use liquid clay from autoglym it's good stuff spray it on and it goes pink as it works breaking down the contamination. Saves you sanding and buffing it. Or try a clay bar and manually remove it.

  3. #233
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    I have clay barred it once already and I don't know if it's just come back or its more grinding dust cause I did grind since but not much.

    Think I've sorted the linkage, I put it in neutral moved the selector over to passenger side and cable tied it so it didn't move then wedged the gear lever in neutral to passenger side and tightened the pinch bolt. Started it up and seems to go into all the gears fine, so jobs jonbed on that one I think

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

  4. #234
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    After claying it seal it with some polish. Glad linkage is sorted.

  5. #235
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    If not I'll have to have it resprayed a quick flat and flick over, my mate will do it for ?1500

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

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    Gold Club Member# 001 Club Member Nova_Tek's Avatar
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    Good stuff dude, major milestone accomplished!

    Hope the self isolation isn't anything serious.

    Probably worth spraying some iron fallout remover over it first to help loosen them up, then do the clay. Should make it less harsh, I wouldn't want any hard particles to damage the paint. Then a good polish to protect it.

    Getting there!

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    The autoglym liquid clay is a fall out remover its ?13 on ebay for 500ml its called magma I use it alot at work for fallout removal on new cars when they have been stored near pylons ect. They are covered in tiny iron fillings.

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    I have some pretty decent fallout remover that I use from my local detail shop, I'm gonna give that a try then clay bar and machine polish then ceramic seal it.

    I'm looking at getting a carcoon, but not sure how durable they are in regards to being against a wall under carport, suppose if I put a board against the wall where it would touch it would be alright

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

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    Ok should shift it pal carcoon sounds good would like one myself.

  10. #240
    Senior User Iain's Avatar
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    I've got an indoor carcoon against a sectional garage wall. They're made of pretty good material however if it's outside and potentially blown about I wouldn't have it against a wall. Filters are on the side too..

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