Adding remote locking to factory central locking setup?

[Spudly]

As title peeps, in one hand i have a universal remote locking kit, in the other hand i have a nova with factory locking installed, i know i need to swap out the drivers motor for a slave motor as it isnt a motor, just a switch.

Now, where can i source a suitable motor, and im fairly sure from a brief search that the passenger side one from another nova would probably suffice, however there havent been novas in the scrappies round here for a very long time now so that isnt really an option.

I seem to recall that mk3 cavalier/astra rear door motors were the same as what i require, but im not too sure on that one, can anyone tell me for definite which vehilce and motor i want to be pillaging for the right one please

[millworm]

My nova has factory central locking and a Gemini alarm with remote central locking and I haven't had to change anything. Just tap into the ecu

[Spudly]

Then whoever fitted it for you fitted a motor when they did it, factory central locking only has a switch on the drivers side, not a motor!

[millworm]

Will check as I'm certian it's standard

[Markd89]

I'm pretty sure i have a spare n/s motor included with the nova i just bought i'll have alook

[mowgli]

I'd imagine any gm door lock motor would be good enough.

[Spudly]

Right new head scratcher here, rcl is wired in to the control module in the passenger footwell, it fires the locking correctly for lock and unlock, we've changed the switch in the drivers door for a tested working passenger side nova motor, yet the drivers door doesn't lock or unlock with the others!
Any suggestions as to why this may be?
The rcl is powered from the power feed to the locking module, and the lock/unlock feeds from the rcl unit connect to the brown and brown/white wires on the right hand side of the control module plug!

[Liam]

I had exactly the same problem with mine the other week. I used a Vectra rear boot solenoid as I didn't have a spare Nova passenger one. Anyway, I eventually managed to work it out by taping into the passenger side 'wires' and then route some new ones to the new drivers one. Or... You could just cut and solder the drivers wires into the passenger wires if you get me. That's the only way I managed it and spent hours trying to sort it!!

[Spudly]

Hmm sounds very odd, Rob spoke to the head techy at his work today and he said something simliar actually, he said to tap into the feed on the drivers rear door and double that back to the front door, then just tape the current wiring in the drivers door away somewhere tidy!

I was dubious about this but youve now come along and said the same thing so that pretty much confirms it, unfortuantely its going to be a few weeks before i get back to the car to have another crack at it, but ill bump this thread and let you know the outcome, ta muchly

[Jack]

Without looking at a wiring diagram, I'd figure the wires coming out the control box and going to the OSF are input wires so it won't output a lock signal on those (logically, as the OSF was originally the switch to lock the other doors). So yeah, chopping the wires over to another door output should fix that.

Surely the RCL box connects to the old OSF door wires to generate the lock signal to the standard control box though?