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Thread: Head Gasket

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    Default Head Gasket

    After the excellent advice that you guy's gave me when I was changing my blown head gasket, a neighbour asked me if I could change her's, which I starting to do a couple of days ago. When I stripped it down I found that she had also broken a few rocker arms and so when she ordered a new set she splashed out and also bought hydraulic valve lifters and thrust pads too.

    I changed the head gasket and all of the above, and everything was alright until I thighted the streach bolts, because when I tried to turn the crankshaft to set the two top notches and bottom notch and pointer which were very slightly out, no matter how much pressure I put on it, it would not move at all (forward or back). I even removed the rocker cover and tried to push the hydraulic vavle lifters down, but only 2 out of the 8 would make any sort of movement at all Yet before I thighted the head bolts up all of them moved up and down smoothly.

    When the bolts are torqued down is it the camshaft stopping them from moving, or because they do not move they are stopping the cam, but why? I thought that the head bolts might of been be too tight, which is stopping them all from moving, but I did them up in stages shown in the specifications (Stage 1 25 Nm, stage 2 60, stage 3, stage 4 60) and I used one of those Skyes Pickivant tools.

    In the Haynes manual it states that if you are using new hydraulic valve lifters immerse them in new oil and compress it several times to charge it. Does this mean that there should be some oil in them when they are fitted?

    Advice needed.

    Cheers

    Mike

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    Senior User mowgli's Avatar
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    what engine?

    some of them need the cam timing in before dismantling., which is why you can buy cam locking tools.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mowgli View Post
    what engine?

    some of them need the cam timing in before dismantling., which is why you can buy cam locking tools.
    Hi Mowgli, it is a 1.2 and about a year older then mine (1989 F reg). What will happen or how bad is it if her cam timing needed doing before dismantling and has not been done?

    Cheers

    Mike
    Last edited by gunner1x1; 16-07-11 at 02:29 PM.

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    Senior User mowgli's Avatar
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    in that case, as long as everything is assembled correctly, i'm stumped. most of us on here put the lifters in pretty much dry, so they can fill up as the engine starts, but a 1.2 should have a bit of resistance when you try & turn the cam, but a 1/2" drive ratchet bar and a (i think) 17mm socket should still do the trick.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mowgli View Post
    in that case, as long as everything is assembled correctly, i'm stumped. most of us on here put the lifters in pretty much dry, so they can fill up as the engine starts, but a 1.2 should have a bit of resistance when you try & turn the cam, but a 1/2" drive ratchet bar and a (i think) 17mm socket should still do the trick.
    Nope they will not move at all. The hydraulic valve lifters will work perfectfully before I tighten the head bolts down, ie before the camshaft holds them down, but once the head is back together they will not move.

    If you are stumped then I am up the creek without a f-ing paddle, and I feel a right prat taking the job on.

    Cheers

    Mike

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    did you compare the new lifters with the old ones?? cos there is obviously something wrong.. i reckon you need to get the head back off, and take a look at them, as they should have some spring until they are pumped up.

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    so, let me get this right, once the head is back together and the cam belt off, you try and turn the cam using a 17mm socket on the pulley end and its jammed solid, right?
    Last edited by Steve0011; 16-07-11 at 08:39 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve0011 View Post
    so, let me get this right, once the head is back together and the cam belt off, you try and turn the cam using a 17mm socket on the pulley end and its jammed solid, right?
    No the cambelt was on when I tried to turn the crankshaft sprocket, but yes I am using a 17mm socket.

    Cheers

    Mike

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    ok

    first take the cam belt off and then turn the crank 45 degrees, this will put all the pistons halfway in the bores and away from the valves

    next, remove the spark plugs then try and turn the cam via the cam bolt, it should turn fairly easy (dont force it if it jams) if it does jam then i suspect either a part of the broken rockers or a thrust pad might be stuck in one (or more) of the srings jamming one or more valves.

    if you dont find any debris in the cam carrier/springs then and the cam rotates normally the the problem must be in the bottom end, you could well have someting inside the head its self, no choice but to remove the head this then (should) mean a new gasket and bolts to do the job properly im afraid
    Last edited by Steve0011; 16-07-11 at 11:00 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve0011 View Post
    ok

    first take the cam belt off and then turn the crank 45 degrees, this will put all the pistons halfway in the bores and away from the valves

    next, remove the spark plugs then try and turn the cam via the cam bolt, it should turn fairly easy (dont force it if it jams) if it does jam then i suspect either a part of the broken rockers or a thrust pad might be stuck in one (or more) of the srings jamming one or more valves.

    if you dont find any debris in the cam carrier/springs then and the cam rotates normally the the problem must be in the bottom end, you could well have someting inside the head its self, no choice but to remove the head this then (should) mean a new gasket and bolts to do the job properly im afraid
    Thanks Steve I will try that tommrow. If they do turn alright what is the next step, refitting the cambelt?

    Cheers

    Mike

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