How about though getting the wheels machined and then use bolts and nuts instead of wheel bolts.
How about though getting the wheels machined and then use bolts and nuts instead of wheel bolts.
Take 2mm off the wheels, 2mm off the drum face and 2mm off the plate on the rear axe.
The plate just gives you a bit extra strength on the beam.
Silly question but does running rear discs maybe bring the overall width of the beam down or up? It may be enough to gain a few mm if it reduces the width. You'd need some accurate way to measure it but it could be worth a try? Basicly is the mounting face to face on each side narrorer on a disc rear beam? I highly doubt that both setups are identical????
It also act as a spacer for longer bolts to get the correct "stretch" when torquing up the bolts to provide clamp loadOriginally Posted by novacabrio
if the "Stretch" length of the bolt is reduced it may result in the joint becoming loose
Is it also classed as a safety critical assembly, i.e. if they come off so does the whole wheel/stub axle
I spent many years durability testing suspension components including twist beam axles, so please don't ignore me
The plate isn't there by accident, if it wasn't required it wouldn't be there
Regards
Royston
Just as a side issue, I really like the wheels, but is it worth all this work/and possibly risking life and limb?
Sez he riding arond the countryside of just legal slicks
If you want any additional advice drop me a line
Regards
Royston
is the plate going to mind being the other side on the beam then Royston ?
still havnt got the bumper off Rory yet,
No I would expect if to be OK, but need to have a look at the set up again, jus toff to troll through the pictures
I would be careful when removing the origonal plate, i.e. not to gouge or damage the parent material of the stub axle housing structure
Regards
Royston
Just been looking at Colins pics (I spied an axle pic there)
Origonally the plate will have been welded to the spindle housing and then machined to achieve the correct Camber/toe angle, you will have to look as how you achieve maintain/this!
It will also be difficult to get good welds inside the housing, will need to be tagged into place effectively.
Regards
Royston
love the wheels, it will be worth all the hastle in the long run mate
iain
I've been busy doing stuff to the engine bay over last few weeks, refubed the throttle linkage, got my injectors back from being cleaned, quick coat of U-pol gray, fitted them and the fuel rail, dizzy, cap, coil plus a few more bits.
Also got a Sparco brace off Nick J that he painted gray, which matches the stuff iv painted gray.
Few pics;
Still a few things to do but its getting close to being able to start, which makes Edd happy
Black, grey and silver combo looks excellent
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