Race Spec, engine Building.?

right i was going to buy a 2.0 8v SEH and jsut stick some R1 carbs on it.
but i've just been ofterd all this from a mate who was building upto a good spec for cheaper then my SEH was going to cost(had to buy the whole car)
there Sri big valve head which inside has a piper bp300 camshaft kit which includes uprated lifters and followers as well as heavy duty valve springs the head was rebuilt with these parts and cleaned and skimmed before fitment.

Also a 1400 bottom end overbored to a 1500(does any1 know the standerd 1400cc bore size?)

Also a lightend flywheel and some ARP rod bolts.

ive never built a engine before, i was just wondering what else i can do to this engine.
fueling wise it have a set of r1 carbs.

i know i'l need all the gaskets etc
is there anything else i should do?
New oil/water pump
cambelts etc
what about bearing?

Anything ive missed?

Dude, if thats "race spec" he's having a laugh lol

Thats just "home made spec" the over bore will do a grand total of feck in the grand scale of things, for everyday driving a 300 degree will be poo, and why run it on bike carbs when Webers are far easier lol

If youve got a spare ?2k i can fix you up with a PROPER Group A works spec 1.6 8v engine running a garanteed 155bhp ATW on OMEX :thumb:

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Originally Posted by Last Of The Nova SR'S

Dude, if thats "race spec" he's having a laugh lol

Thats just "home made spec" the over bore will do a grand total of feck in the grand scale of things, for everyday driving a 300 degree will be poo, and why run it on bike carbs when Webers are far easier lol

If youve got a spare ?2k i can fix you up with a PROPER Group A works spec 1.6 8v engine running a garanteed 155bhp ATW on OMEX :thumb:

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i didnt mean that was a race spec. i ment i want info on building one

If its currently built, its worthwhile fitting a new cambelt and waterpump.

^^ read the Group A build manual :thumb: really good read along with the Nova homogolation papers :D

is that the one in stus sig?

yep

Try this book http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blueprint-4-...0255875&sr=1-3

pmsl Martin, when are you going to stop changing your mind every five minutes, and actually DO something? lol

love you Leee...lol



ermm my dad calls me mavis, from open all hours(the one who can never make her mind up) lol

there is no point in performing that tuning ritual if you have no way to tune the ignition timing presisely. the engine will run like an old camel and the big cam and large valves will make the airspeed drop across the venturis in the carb and make it run very bad at low rpm and also spit back to ignite your bulkhead. you will be a wiser man to run throttle bodies and a programming ECU computer to make wise tunings to AFR and ign, also this will give you precisely valus with akseleartion enrichment. and higher advance to make it drive torquier at low rpm/high load conditions.
that would be a good start. but you hav no mention of porting work to your head, exhaust manifold, port/flange matching, balancing. you will need to decide where you want/need your power and torque so you can decide on a cam and if the rpms are too high to give you the power you and then you might have to consider heavier valve springs and solid lifters. this will then mean that you will need to consider gearbox changes to make full use of your new engine and different performances.!! then you will need to play with trumpet lengths and manifolds to get the power cleaned up.
i have met many an engine running on carbs that is not anywhere near its troo potenshal. it is running...it is fastER than before..but it is not correct.

you have to give this enjine a lot more thot young man or you will be wasteing a good engine and pennies!!

thank you for your time.

Some good info up there ^ TBH

What i would do, if i was going for say a mild competition engine is -

1600 8v dis pack block, Ported & polished head + ARP's, bigger valves & compeition valve springs/followers, 300 or more degree cam (rendering it pretty much poo for everyday use) with vernier, deseamed rods with ARP's, standard pistons, balanced bottom end with ligthened flywheel, dry sump kit, standard TB with a Cav 1.8 inner, removed EGR, either OMEX or MS management and as a result prolly creams injectors, Ashley 4-1 race manifold, OMP inox Group A or N exhaust system.

As for the trans id use an F13 casing but the final drive would depend upon the overall use of the car* Qauiffe or Gripper diff, HH uniballs and Group A wheel bearings with strengthened bottom arms and polybishes everywhere.

*Final Drive - when i was heavily involded in rallying, each car used to have several gearbox's depending upon the event is was entered into, so you have a relativly standard box with XXX final drive for say a Tarmac event, then so and so for sprint (normally some lairy cluster with uber low down pull etc)

If your were proper serious about building a proper Race Spec engine, speak to Martin Bowyer of Bowyer Power, get a base spec build of him (just dont ask the price lol) and get the parts via eBay, used rally parts websites etc and just build up an engine at home.

http://207.57.66.223/phpBB3/index.php
this is a great site. guy croft

Meritlover,

i have a cam in the head, with all the nesseracy valve springs etc, itdoes say that in my 1st post.

andi didnt say this was all the bits i was going to use, this thread was posted for tips and advise.


mike tanks for the info, but i'm talkin 1400. i know its just an example tho cheers


Cheers for the tips gys, keep em coming.

yes but you did not specify the spring rate or what the total RPM limit will be. and as for the lifters, what is meant by 'uprated' the biggest problem with tuning the OHC engine when they were rallied was the oil frothing and cosing the hydraulic tappers to 'flutter'. what are you using the engine for? do you want high peak power with no torque? or something allround?

you did say you wanted a race rally engine. perhaps i hav misjudged you and should hav interprated that as a 'realativly fast, pieced together engine with no real logic to what bits were chosen'

in my experience with many nova owners, uprated or 'tuned' parts meants they are either painted, louder, or chromed. no necessarily better ;)

you did ask for tips, so i gave you some. dont get upset with me that is the one that is trying to be the one to help. :(
thanks for your time

i want somethign allround, its going to be road/tracked i dont want no bling, hence why the cars goign back black..

'realativly fast, pieced together engine with no real logic to what bits were chosen'

thats why i was asking for help/advise.

afaik the lifters etc are par tof the cam kit

iirc it was Ash C's old head..

i am of the opinion with Last Of The Nova SRs. he knows how to make a nova a very happy engine indeed!. lol

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1600 8v dis pack block, Ported & polished head + ARP's, bigger valves & compeition valve springs/followers, 300 or more degree cam (rendering it pretty much poo for everyday use) with vernier, deseamed rods with ARP's, standard pistons, balanced bottom end with ligthened flywheel, dry sump kit, standard TB with a Cav 1.8 inner, removed EGR, either OMEX or MS management and as a result prolly creams injectors, Ashley 4-1 race manifold, OMP inox Group A or N exhaust system.

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i would do all of the above but with throttle bodies. you could maybe get away with the fact that you might get away with not requireing a dry sump kit but upratificating the std oil pump and fitting a heavier spring to increase the pressure. however with out the solid lifters, you may get a problem with frothing and poor valve lift with such an agressive cam. i would be the one to suggest a windage tray if you havnt already got one.

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Originally Posted by meritlover

i am of the opinion with Last Of The Nova SRs. he knows how to make a nova a very happy engine indeed!. lol

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AFPMSL! For a mild'ish budget spec thats pretty much what I'd do off the top of my head.

T/B's would definetly be and option if money wasnt an issue though lol as for the oil pump, i sincerely recon a standard one would cope with that spec TBH

Stick with the standard inlet and tb.
It flows to 150+bhp.

also the much longness of the std runners and the small plenum. it makes a good option between torque and hp.
it is a good std manifold yes

please

wow.. i feel i'm in over my head lol

All good advice folks, however I bet ?100 that Martin will be back, same time next week with a different plan ;)

Love you really ;)

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Originally Posted by krobinson

All good advice folks, however I bet ?100 that Martin will be back, same time next week with a different plan ;)

Love you really ;)

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why you lil !! :P


good job i like you keith:thumb: