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Hi lads,
what can i expect to pay for a respray in gloss black on my nova, its parchment beige atm.
would like a half decent job but dont wanna pay for a show quality finish as hope to be hitting some tracks next year.
not sure on what black at the moment but quite liking ford panther black at the moment :cool:
http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog....ast500_450.jpg
cheers for replies,
JOSH
You pay for what you get...
£500 to £2000..
The cheaper the worse job. You'll want all the shuts doing yeah? What state is the body work in? Will you strip it?
I'll completely strip and possibly deliver
Shell is in great nic. Could start prep if needed
Would like complete shell sprayed, interier-under bonnet-exterier
Im chuck norris with a spanner but i know my limits and i'd only regret trying to spray it myself...
Cheers for the quick reply :)
JOSH
2-3 litres of 2k paint, 2k primer with hardener, and thinners for both will be in the region of £200-£250 then factor in consumables, like wer&dry, scotch-brite and the like, then filler, and your looking at £300 of materials, then it depends on where/how you paint it. if its a driveway/mates job then its beer for your mates, if its a professional job, then its there time so another £1000 on top of that if there are a few dents to address.
you can save a huge amount by doing all the prep yourself. if the panel is good, then dull it up with super fine scotch-brite, and if the panel has some damage then 200grit it dry, then 600/800 grit wet. fill any dents, and ask a body shop to just paint it how you give it to them. most are happy to do this and it will probably only take 3-4 hours to mask and paint it so saves you loads. ony down side is, if the paint reacts/you get a sh*t finish, they will say its because of your prep (which it probably will be) so you get no warranty
Depends who you go to, if you know them, and quality of their work. I had the Nova done for a real good price but that was partly due to them being well know by a very good friend of mine.
Realistically, Id say between £1200 - £1700 (for minor bodywork and a full respray in a different colour)
cheers :) i'll do prep myself then,
what makes the paint react normally?
Old bad paint underneath and it's type IIRC (which my Nova had plenty of lol )
As above lol i got a free paint job :tard: my car is quite bad but it was cream + pure rust when i got her so i dont no witch is worse? . Just save up:thumb:
2k paint is pretty good for not reacting with other paints, it certainly won't react with the original paint. so long as its clean and dry, it should be fine. temperature is your biggest concern if doing it yourself.
my paint job was also free (almost) I bought the materials, and me and a load of mates did the prep, and sprayed it. it still needs a flat and polish, but its pretty good considering.
also, shouldn't that ford have been removed by the swear filter? lol
Like others say anywhere between 500 - 2000 but if you do the prep and stripping then saves alot as thats the time consuming part but to be honest nothing beats doing it yourself just take your time and ull do fine :)
if you do decide to take on the prep yourself , the MOST important thing to remember is when you prime anywhere , do not let it get wet afterwards , primer absorbs water and will come through as blisters when it has been painted ,
see loads of cars that still get used while they are in primer and it really winds me up lol
Also never use deodorant or any thing like that when prepping as it has silicone in just be care full of that cos it will ruin the paint on top I had mine done by a mate cost me 600 for base coat and lacquer I just supplied the base and he supplied every thing else for that and the finish is excellent only a little unhappy with drivers door prep but that my own fault for not doing it properly also it was fully stripped
i paid £750 for mine, i prepped it but didnt prime the whole car just the bits i filled etc
that was inlcuding fitting my stickers aswell which was cheap for the job he done on it
Already been said but prep is the key, but make sure it's spot on otherwise the spray job will look cack and full of orange peel.
prep wise,
what should i do?
obviously i want to fill and flat any dents.
What level should i do the rest of the car to?
tbh if your asking your better leaving it to the painter
no offence meant though :)
/\ second that for a good job best left to professionals as you won't want to have to do it again
tbh most pro's will probably frown upon anything undertaken by the customer as they wouldn't wanna risk it being done below their standards. I used to work in a bodyshop but I left it all down to the bodyshop to get it all done coz anything that's not right ain't my problem.
Even so, buying a book & reading up on the techniques & jargon cant hurt. I think a good result is achievable but the hardest thing is probably getting a good environment to paint in, dust extraction, cleanliness & temperature.
Do you have a local college that do automotive courses, maybe offer the shell to the course leader of a paint spraying course to teach on, you get it done dirt cheap.
no offence taken ;)
seriously is there nothing i could do apart from obviously stripping it to a bare shell?
This may be of some use "ask a body shop though if that's what they'd recommend" CLICKME
Best thing to do is strip it and clear with who ever is painting it for you that your willing to do some prep and maybe they'll give you the pointers to do the handy bits of rubbing but most will want to give it a run over them selfs
get rid of all the shinyness off the paint, fill what needs filled and prime over that
if you see any imperfections now it will be 10x worse after its painted
when i prepped my i went round the car while it was still shiny with a black marker and circled every deep scratch, dent or imperfection
if you dont do it now its harder to see once its sanded
ideally you want somewhere inside to prep it to keep the moisture off it, i done most off the car with 200 grit paper, using 60 then 100 then 150 on any parts i used filler
after you have filled it and sanded it use high build primer over the filler as it has a thicker consitency than normal primer and can help fill imperfections
once i had the car sanded i went over the whole car with 400 then 600 wet and dry used wet, the bettwer finish you get on the paint now the better the paint job will be
you need to get in all the small nooks and crannys (sp?lol) i had all my panels off to get in behind them and clean them, same with the windows apart from the windscreen
i spent nearly a month sanding my car lol and i can still go round it now and see bits that i could have done better, the finish in the paint is 99% the prep work
plus i would like to add..
when the car is in primer dust over it with a can of black paint (just litely though) and sand it with a sanding block and very small dents and deep scraches will show up!:)
yeah meant to say that, i dont that just before i wet sanded it so you know where you have done and if you have missed any bits its called a guide coatQuote:
Originally Posted by ryansnova
yeak i know mate
its kinda sad that im 15 and know things like that lol
Guide coat ftw. I prefer to repair dents best I can then point them all out to the painter and they look over them to say they are good or need work. You get what you pay for.
i wish i was into cars at 15, i was actualy working then making loadsa money for a 15 year old lolQuote:
Originally Posted by ryansnova
i got my first car at 11 and lerned myself to drive at 10 in my dads van lol
since then i have had 2 classic minis and a mk1 nova and the nova i have now lol
lol my first car was an h reg 1.0 4 speed fiesta at 17 i was well chuffed haha