*HOW TO* Weld in Roll Cage Spreader Plates

How to: Weld in Roll Cage Spreader Plates.

Fitting a Roll Cage isn't just simply bolting a bit of steel tube to a car. Theres a little more to it then that! Being as your fitting something designed to save your life in the event of not staying shiny side up, you want it fitted properly!!

As detailed in the thread title, here's my "How To" with regards to doing this.

What you'll need:

MiG welder - Pref 100a minimum, IMHO DONT use a non-gas item as there sheet.
Suitable thickness steel plates (IIRC, FIA/MSA Homolagtion is 3mm minimum) TBH, I wouldnt go any less then 3mm anyway! But they need to be oversized compared to the rollcage "foot plate". (Approx 120x120mm)
Wire brush (maybe)
Welding mask (dont be tempted to close your eyes & hope for good results, in reality it never happens)

*Disclaimer: This is a How To guide ONLY. If your's end up coming out carp then its your own problem. I nor PNG or any of its affiliates accept NO repsonsibility to any eventual outcome of your welding skills and/or metal working abilitys. You will be carrying out this modification at your own risk. Do not complain to me if it goes tits up, this is my advice only. Using inferior/unsuitable metal work could potentially result in seriously indeqaute rollcage mounting, thus rendering the cage useless if you go downtown at Combe or such like.

Now the boring bits over, lets get started.

Step one:

Take aforementioned steel spreader plate, place under Roll Cage foot nice and central. Ensure Roll Cage is "Dry" place central in the car - basically evenly spaced between both nearside B pillar & offside B pillar.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...uild/323-1.jpg

Once happy, get geared up. You'll need one of these:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...uild/322-1.jpg

NOTE: For your own safety, when welding in the Drivers side spreader plate, take note of the OE fuel pump mounting point on injection engined models as some people (myself included) have repositioned the fuel pump just behind the rear cabin bulkhead. Any underseal or waxoyl on the chassis underside where your welding will set alight!! Not good if the fuel pump is also down there!!!


You have been warned, I refuse to take ANY responsibility and/or liability in the event of you using this guide but burning your car out as a result (Im not taking the pish here either!!)


Back on topic.....

Now your happy with how its all lined up, tack the plate in place like so. Make sure you get a nice strong weld. For this I used Gas Mark 6 on the reg, wire speed 6.5 to 7, using Co2 welding gas (MiG, obviously).

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...uild/324-1.jpg

Once happy with it all tacked in place, get jiggy with it...... the key here is using your spare hand with a hefty glove on, weld for about 30 to 60 seconds, then put the fire out on the underside with YOUR GLOVED HAND. I done the aforementioned and it worked a tread. Heck, Im sitting here typing it, so I didnt get dead!

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...uild/325-1.jpg

Done. Repeat the process for Nearside front/Offside Front/NSR & OSR etc etc.

Simple yet effective.

However, if you so wish, you can even weld a bolt in cage to these spreader plates. Your call though :thumb:

Whilst your at it, another How To Here showing my guide to welding in a Rear Strut Brace. A worthwhile modification if you ask me.

Have fun.

Mike.

you might find it welds abit better if you clean the paint off

Aye, bare metal any areas you're fusing together. It's worth noting that the hobby gas bottles don't last too long either, can be well into your stride and run out on a Sunday afternoon! Stock up or move up IMO.

Yeah i know about bare metal fusing, but im lazy lol

Limp, the Co2 bottle im using has so far done: stitch welding rear turrets, welded in a rear brace, welded in 2 speader plates and still going strong.

Ive couple spare so shouldnt run out anytime soon TBH.

Nice.

Do you use just Co2 on its own Mike or 80% argon 20 co2?

either andy, pure CO2 is usually cheaper

Anyone got any advice for raising a roll cage:

Mine bolts into the where the rear seats did but at the front its too small and if you put where it meets the floor then it doesnt reach the roof so i need to raise it but unsure how lol

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...e/S7300576.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by burgo

either andy, pure CO2 is usually cheaper

---

Which is better?

it doesnt matter. mixed gases are more for stainless, cast, aluminium welding

Rep added mate Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andy

Which is better?

---

As already said by Burgo, mixed gases are far superior for stainless/cast welding etc, but Argon/Co2 mix is really good for thin sheet metal working whereas pure Co2 is far superior for working with nice, clean, new chunky steels.

Mike,

do you have any pics of the front\rear mounts my safty devices cage doesnt seem to touch the floor..?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by skidmarkz

Mike,

do you have any pics of the front\rear mounts my safty devices cage doesnt seem to touch the floor..?

---

I dont have pics no mate :(

BUT it shouldnt do anyway, you need to weld in some box section feet for some cages :thumb:

isnt the gas their just to offset fire? with co2 stops the oxygen from feeding the fire but argon actually displaces oxygen completely,

also hobby bottles dont last long if you dont completely unscrew the bottle, turning off the reg isnt enough as they are v. prone to leaking! i always unscrew mine and although i havnt done a great deal of welding my bottles are lasting me a long time!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tidy Max

isnt the gas their just to offset fire? with co2 stops the oxygen from feeding the fire but argon actually displaces oxygen completely,

also hobby bottles dont last long if you dont completely unscrew the bottle, turning off the reg isnt enough as they are v. prone to leaking! i always unscrew mine and although i havnt done a great deal of welding my bottles are lasting me a long time!

---

Nope, its used as its an Inert gas (one of several infact). Same reason why light bulbs are filled with Argon gas.

Bit of info on Inert here > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inert_gas

EDIT: Just to add to the wiki link, the welding process is essentially just an electrical circuit being short circuited at xxx ampage, the feed wire becomes molten at xxx ampage an the rest is history basically. (well, theres a lot more to it then that actually but meh, as a mega basic explanation thatll do for me)