EML light

Since putting the XE in I've had a few problems with the EML. When the cars running the light is on but if I earth it out and turn off the engine off I dont get any blink codes.

I have wired in two switches for the power/ignition as I lost the keys. Normally, I guess you earth out the wire from the ECU (cant remember off the top of my head what colour it is) and turn the engine on and off and it displays the blink codes?

Now I guess that mine isnt working beccause I'm turning the power off instead of JUST the engine. So im not giving it anytime/power to display the code?

Am I right or wrong and how do I get round this?
:tard: Im poo at cars :thumb:

do you mean that you cut all power to the ecu rather than just to the 'engine on' signal wire to the ecu?

Yeh I think so, it was wired up a few months ago but ill check it out tommorow when theres a bt more light.

is this the puppy?

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Black - Black (the ignition live connect up on the XE/LET loom you will find is a single wire around the gearbox area of the loom. It should be in its own little single plug but these tend to get cut so you may find you have just a single black wire somewhere between the end of the loom and the end of the fuel rail. You can either feed an ignition live from the nova loom into the bay and connect it up there, tap into a feed near the ECU (you will need to suitably seal off the wire in the bay and tape up in the loom) or run the wire back down the loom (you'll need to solder and extend it) into the car so you keep all your connections in the footwell.

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I guess ill be needing three switches electrics, ignition live and start?

Your ECU will need a permanent supply (red wire) and the switched input (black wire). The EML won't work properly if you don't have the red permanently connected IMO. The ECU needs power for its memory to store characteristics about your particular engine in order to run better / more economically.

Currently:

The thick red cable for the ECU is going directly to the battery with no switches.

The Black igntion live cable (that one that runs to somewhere near the gearbox) has been wired to one of the thick red wires before the electrics on switch.

Hope this makes sense

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Originally Posted by djshaggeh

Currently:



The Black igntion live cable (that one that runs to somewhere near the gearbox) has been wired to one of the thick red wires before the electrics on switch.

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If you've wired switched live to a red wire, it wont be turning off when you cut the ignition. it needs to be run to a BLACK wire in the nova's loom.

Sweet - found where, behind the dash?
Does it matter if I wire it with one wire connected to a block connector with two wires coming off?

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Originally Posted by djshaggeh

Sweet - found where, behind the dash?
Does it matter if I wire it with one wire connected to a block connector with two wires coming off?

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Any switched live wire will do the trick. I would stick a fuse inline as well to protect the ECU.

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If you've wired switched live to a red wire, it wont be turning off when you cut the ignition. it needs to be run to a BLACK wire in the nova's loom.

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I have two switches one for electrics and a push button start. I cant turn ignition off unless I cut the power. This is baffling me.

If the ECU black is on a permanent feed instead of switched your engine won't know when you want to turn it off and hence the engine will carry on running unless another part of the circuit is cut, i.e. fuel pump supply. I take it the 'push button start' is only for the starter motor only and the other switch you have is for dashboard / instrument items etc. It is the latter that also needs to switch the ECU black wire.

Iain

I guess im trying recreate the 3 positions on the ignition barrel.
-Power
-Power for accessories (headunit etc)
-Ignition

This way I can kill the engine but still have power to the dash. This is how Ive wired it up, but unfortunatly the battery died so Ill have to charge it ready for the weekend see if it works.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...wiringjpeg.jpg

The third switch normally on the ignition barrel is nothing to do with the ECU, which it looks like your picture shows. This position merely disconnects power to things like radio player WHEN cranking engine over only. In your scenario I wouldn't bother with that particular feature and just wire things like ECU feed to all other switched components.

Right, this has got serious now - I've got the old haynes wiring diagram out.

An ignition barrel has four wires:

Red - 4mm - Positive supply from battery.
Black - 4mm - To ECU switched positive supply (and instruments)
Black - 2.5mm - The switched supply to things like radio player, blower etc.
Black/Red - 2.5mm- To starter motor.

If I was replacing with switches I would join the 2.5mm and 4mm blacks together. If your battery is weak one day just remember not to have the blower on or readio on when cranking.

On your diagram above your black wire going up from the first switch should go to your ECU + instruments, the thin one goes to the radio / blower.

Iain

Thats cleared up a few grey areas for me Iain. Thanks for your time, ill let you know if it worked at the weekend when the battery is charged.

no problems, if you have any more probs just ask.

weve allready tried it that way with ecu line and ignition together, dont get any diagnostics from the dash light as it all turns off at once.

to what someone mentioned before with haynes manual, ive done an updated diagram corresponding to that, all thats left is the ecu feed, not sure about. where should it go and should it have 12 volts in stead of the current 3.5 ?

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ingdiagram.jpg

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weve allready tried it that way with ecu line and ignition together, dont get any diagnostics from the dash light as it all turns off at once.

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I tired it but as i said the battery was flat so it wouldnt start