olly, ive got a spare genuine monterey vent in the workshop.
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olly, ive got a spare genuine monterey vent in the workshop.
Good lad i love my paddle cluch, i cant see why some jockys cant get use to them! lol
bugger i want one!!!:cry:Quote:
Originally Posted by elgan
Id lend a hand, but you're not exactly local to me :(
Where do you live?
Near Leicester ;)
If I didn't have 2 cars to get ready and a engine to build for the trackday on the 27th then I would be there mate !
Keep at it though as you can get it done, get that loom on rallyusedparts ;)
right then, onwards and upwards :)
today even more weight saving, but mainly due to me wanting fixed side mounted seats, old mod - but new to me, removed the standard set mounts/ runners
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0494.jpg
yay, another 1.9kgs lost
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0495.jpg
all cut out, all the way across
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0496.jpg
neatened up, ground down, all smooth, and vacuumed out
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0497.jpg
standard runner top lobbed off
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0498.jpg
tomorrow is case of making some bare metal, and welding in seat bars
Not done that little job yet!!lol :p
Good work Olly, and you can't complain at a bit of weight saving.
Cheers Dude:thumb:
Nice.
Cant beat a bit of weight saving
Iv just being doing the same thing with seat rails, suprised you havent done the internal shifter mod?
What are the actual benefits of doing that? I know its a common thing to do, but I have no qualms with my current setup lol
Unless its for more accurate gearchanges, in which case I might do it, wouldn't want to be crunching my box now lol
The only real benefit is it frees up the bottom of the car for a straighter exhaust setup. it is marginally less sloppy than a nova setup, but not by much lol
i'll only do it then, if my noise is a problem on track, and I have to change it for a 3 box system :) rather than just 2 boxes
yep, that what im bolting on for next season. I was everso close to the max last year lol
Nice one Ol, your lucky yours was not spot welded in! lol
Saying that though Lee (Dar's Bro) had a Plasma cutter, also don't forget that the side of the passengers one hold the handbrake in place, so don't chop that out completely!:D
And another thing, when putting in the bars,if there solid box section this wont matter,but if there "L" shaped make sure to weld them in so that the small parts of the "L" shape are facing inward,makes it easy to get under to bolt the seat mounts down.
EG, here's a rough sketch.
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/3...ilscopyvg0.jpg
Hope this helps
Scott
Thats a good tip from Scotty there lol
Nice one chap, altho they were spot welded, I just didnt have a spot weld drill, so used the grinder lol
I'm using 1" x 1" box section, and going right across from sill, to exhaust tunnel.
Should I be ok just welding in the 4x bars? or should I plate either the sill or tunnel first?
Lee - I think I'm going to have to replace my whole system to add another box won't i? I'm currently using a 2.25" bore Ashley system... any gen?
Cheers, Olly
Not necce-celery, it depends how much room there is on any straight sections of pipe you have under there. Best bet is to take it to a custom exhaust specialist.Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
But TBH i wouldnt worry too much, you shouldnt be any louder exhaust wise with the bodies on a static test than you are now, its your drive by noise that may be an issue at donny, I know Dar had a few run ins with the noise police there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
I used 1 inch box section - recommend welding a plate either side of each rail - like so
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5.../seatrails.jpg
Dave
Excellent Dave, any particular reason for doing so?
I was just going to go straight through the top and the bottom of the box section for added strength?
Cheers for the heads up to, seems like it's going to be a pain to get them level, straight, and correct when doing it on my own lol
Editted - sorry re read about the "plates" I get ya now, nice one! (i thought you meant the T pieces) definately sturdies it up about by the looks of things
The reason for the t pieces is that unless you weld tubes into the box section where the holes are - there is a possibility the the box section can collapse when you put a bolt right through and then tighten it up
Does that make sense ??
Hense the reason for the brackets (+ I welded the box section in before my seat mounts came and non of the holes on the side mounts lined up with the 2 rails I'd welded in !!!)
Dave
I get ya now, I see the risk of it collapsing, which is why I went for 1x1 box section
I'll see how it goes, and how I feel about it when I'm finally getting them in! lol
The temperatues outside don't see me doing much at the moment :(
Thanks to Dar (again, broken record lol) for sorting a MBE loom out for me, the one I was sold was for a RWD car
First thing, fitted that
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0499.jpg
Anyone know how to tell which which plug is which pot on an SBD coilpack? there are no markings on it whatsoever
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0500.jpg
Throttlepot plugs are different to each other - are these interchangeable items?
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0501.jpg
As is lambda, again - can I change them?
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0502.jpg
For some reason, having difficulties still, connecting the laptop to the ECU
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0503.jpg
Using a USB-Serial lead straight into the COMMs port on the loom to the laptop, but just doesn't want to know...... ?
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0504.jpg
Any suggestions on any of the above? lol
Thanks in advance
Olly
I take it you have loaded the drivers for the serial adaptor? If not then it probably doesnt know what the feck is going on lol
Do you have any other serial devices to make sure the ports actually working?
Exactly how i fit out rally cars with side mounts, 1x1 box section with little steel tabs welded to them ;) or you can just drill straight throught the box section and mount them like that ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by fearless
Some software wont work with a usb-serial adapter. See if you can borrow an older laptop with a proper serial port, or cart a PC into the garage to rule that out.
Lee - do you have a SBD coilpack? can you tell me which plug is which pot, if possible, can do it by the electrical plug, going clockwise or something
Ol im sure mine has them numbered up, very small inprinted numbers by each pot.Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Ill look through my pics, but no promises.
Scott
Balls i cant find anything worth looking at to help you mate..grr
Go on MSN and have a look at what i can find,see if there any use.
Good plan, although i suppose it relates more to personal preference, but they should be more then adequate if bolted through the box section (adeqaute from a occupant safety point of view)Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
very neatly done, cool car and wip thread!
Oli - Please don't tell me you just put the loom in there and that you wired it up and powered it up first to make sure there are at least no dead shorts:eek:
If you haven't wired up the interface plug yet then take off your MBE system!
Now thats out of the way you can forget about the lambda sensor since your ECU will not be taking advantage of it. Find the SBD Taper Throttle Bodies installation instructions and go to page 6 for a diagram of the coil pack. It will show and tell you all you need to know.
For information on what interfece wires do what go to page 15. But here it is below.
You should really strip off the casing on that loom and make sure that the wires are still ok and that the insulation is intact before plugging in your MBE system.Quote:
Connection of interface wires: -
Pin 1 Purple or Red Switched +12v (Ignition)
Pin 2 Orange +12v out to fuel pump
Pin 3 Green Taco signal
967E only: -
Pin 4 Blue/White or White Gear change light
Connect either way as described in step ? 20.
Once you are happy that its all ok, you need to give the loom power (I would also fuse the +ve side of the loom). Then turn on the ignition with Easymap 5.5 loaded and your laptop connected to the loom. If all is well you should hear a little ping from the laptop and you will be connected.
You will find that sometimes the data speed needs adjustment on the laptop although I only have this problem with the innovate wideband not Easimap.
Go off pin numbers too not the colour of the wires as there have been changes in certain plug adaptors as I found out lol
He will be ok the interface he needs to wire up consists of just four (known to be correct)wires and not the actuall ECU plug.
Gotcha, SBD supplied me a new harness for the ign, fuel pump, rev and typically the pin outs were totally different to what the manual said lol
lolThat was nice of them:roll:
If you need any MBE loom's making or loom bits, I know the guy who builds them for SBD, so you can cut out the middle man:thumb:
I know ! they sent me 3 wiring diagrams too which were as helpful as a chocolate teapot lol
I use Car Looms UK for my looms but thanks for the heads up :)
On a side note, Bob got the pictures over to me that he took at the last Donny trackday... not many as it was raining so hard his equipment was getting soaked, but here are a couple of gooduns
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0505.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0506.jpg
:thumb: Good stuff:DQuote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova