the wheels look good on it edd :thumb:
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the wheels look good on it edd :thumb:
Can you not get some machined of the matching face of the wheel? Bring the ET down(up)
If dont know what that plate is there on the beam, can you not just shave it down?
No chance of machining the back of the wheels, bolts are well deep inside
I think I'm going to do the mods on the beam tho
Edd i know you wish to keep the arches standard etc, but i think it's the most simple and easy way to do it without messing with the beam.
Scott
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edd
Bolts are well deep? You machine the mating surface...
I'd shave the plates on the beam down, i wouldn't remove them.
Yeah I know what your saying, I hav a spare beam to try it on .....Quote:
Originally Posted by scott.parker
Also if I leave it as it is I think the fronts might catch as well :(
I know all this fiddling sounds a bit silly for a set of wheels but I get bored seeing the same rims on Nova's and like to different.
ATM I'm thinking of the beam mod for the rear and r/j'd bottom arms and adjustable top mounts, but not sure lol
do you have a spare beam that could be used? rather than modding your good one id try it on another one to see if it worked out the way you wanted, imo its worth doing to make the wheels fit.
Pfft i've done things to run different rims. Its the best way. Having the norm blows goats.
Could you get the rims machined to 42 offset, ie removing 9mm of material from the hub section of the rim, just like the factory would have done.
I looked at the wheels with Edd, I dont reckon there is enough meat on them to remove anything from the rear face tbh. 1 or 2mm tops.
Modding a beam is easy enough, but the fr will need some headscratching. Luckily I have some RJ'd TCA's if he wants to go down that route.
No way would I grind the arches on a brand new shell, sacriledge!
How about though getting the wheels machined and then use bolts and nuts instead of wheel bolts.
Take 2mm off the wheels, 2mm off the drum face and 2mm off the plate on the rear axe.
The plate just gives you a bit extra strength on the beam.
Silly question but does running rear discs maybe bring the overall width of the beam down or up? It may be enough to gain a few mm if it reduces the width. You'd need some accurate way to measure it but it could be worth a try? Basicly is the mounting face to face on each side narrorer on a disc rear beam? I highly doubt that both setups are identical????
It also act as a spacer for longer bolts to get the correct "stretch" when torquing up the bolts to provide clamp load;) if the "Stretch" length of the bolt is reduced it may result in the joint becoming loose:eek: :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by novacabrio
Is it also classed as a safety critical assembly, i.e. if they come off so does the whole wheel/stub axle:eek:
I spent many years durability testing suspension components including twist beam axles, so please don't ignore me;)
The plate isn't there by accident, if it wasn't required it wouldn't be there:thumb:
Just as a side issue, I really like the wheels, but is it worth all this work/and possibly risking life and limb?:confused:
Sez he riding arond the countryside of just legal slickslol
If you want any additional advice drop me a line;)
is the plate going to mind being the other side on the beam then Royston ?
still havnt got the bumper off Rory yet, lol hopefully get it in the next week :thumb:
No I would expect if to be OK, but need to have a look at the set up again, jus toff to troll through the pictureslolQuote:
Originally Posted by Edd
I would be careful when removing the origonal plate, i.e. not to gouge or damage the parent material of the stub axle housing structure;)
Just been looking at Colins pics (I spied an axle pic there)
Origonally the plate will have been welded to the spindle housing and then machined to achieve the correct Camber/toe angle, you will have to look as how you achieve maintain/this!
It will also be difficult to get good welds inside the housing, will need to be tagged into place effectively.
love the wheels, it will be worth all the hastle in the long run mate :thumb:
iain
I've been busy doing stuff to the engine bay over last few weeks, refubed the throttle linkage, got my injectors back from being cleaned, quick coat of U-pol gray, fitted them and the fuel rail, dizzy, cap, coil plus a few more bits.
Also got a Sparco brace off Nick J that he painted gray, which matches the stuff iv painted gray.
Few pics;
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/r...S/SAM_0728.jpg
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/r...S/SAM_0727.jpg
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/r...S/SAM_0729.jpg
Still a few things to do but its getting close to being able to start, which makes Edd happy lol
Black, grey and silver combo looks excellent
Looks lovely Edd :)
Looks f'ing awesome mate!
To the untrained eye it looks all standard too..
Scott
very neat and tidy mate.top drawer!
Thank you very much for the positive comments everyone, much appreciated:)
Glad everybody is liking it so far
Should have another update in next few days
Top notch work Edd, but how do you get the time? Your always online here lol
Looks funking stunning edd. Is the header tank and brake fluid resiviour brand new or have you managed to clean them with something. Would really like a brand new header tank!!
looks sweet :thumb:
Me likey edd :)
iain
Cheers, Both are brand new, had the brake one a few years, header tanks are NLS at Vauxhall, I stumbled across a load that LMF had listed as a Lotus header tank on eBay, maybe try their website as they were on there.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben doodar
Factory.
Epic.
Looks very nice edd :thumb: What silicone hoses are they mate and are they for a sport as iirc there is one that is different on the sports?
Engine bay looks great Edd..... glad the brace works with everything else you have done etc.
Nick.
Bay looks great dude.
Edd it may just be me but the stub axle plates were you doing both or just the one as doing both would surely make it near enough same as factory only with the extra clearance if that makes sence lol.
awesome build by the way mate credit to you sir.
Damo.
There Roose motorsport ones, did have a few issue with the set I had but that was down to the injection system, I think there's another slight difference with carbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by danderv
Nick, Benn, Si, Iain, everybody lol thanks very much.
Cheers very much.Quote:
Originally Posted by damen
The way you've described is the best way of doing it IMO, ATM it looks too wide, iv done a bit to a spare beam, more on that in the next update.
Looking forward to it edd.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edd
Keep it up mate.
stunning mate
Engine bay looks sex mate. Exactly the colour scheme I was thinking of. Was the block painted in silver Hammerite?
:thumb:
Block is black hammerite, head and cam housing is VHT paint in silver, rest of the silver is hammerite.