Printable View
Charles I don't understand how your tie-bar will locate and operate properly without a bearing of some sort. Surely having a steel hole on the bare bolt is gonna have wear issues, leading to play as the hole is enlarged/bolt worn down. Surely a rosejoint at the end would've worked much better? Is there gonna be a series of spacers to prevent fore and aft movement too?
I wanted to use a rose joint but then I thought about the forces acting at that position. If I understand it right under acceleration the main force acting at the front is created by the driven wheels pushing forward through to the front cross member( the reverse will happen underbraking). A rose joint like the one at the rear of the tie bar is not designed to have lateral forces such as that - AFAIK it will try and shove the collar off the ball.Quote:
Originally Posted by dhdev (Oli)
There are going to be washers to space it out front and rear so i can adjuster castor.
I dont expect wear to be an issue - i've made all sorts of stuff before and found that providing you using large bolts which give a large bearing area wear is limted. It will be greased and the size of steel used is way over spec.
BTW I spent a lot of time aligning it all so that the front pivot point is on the same axis as the rear one is
Understand what you're saying about the force acting on the bearing, but I've got rose-jointed tie-bar brackets on mine and the force acts as you said without probs.
But because the tie-bar acts as you said, the front pivot will take all the fore and aft forces. Therefore it will need to be free from movement in those directions. The only way I can see it doing that is by packing it tight with washers, which is gonna be bad from a smooth operation point of view, but leaving a small amount of play will lead to an annoying rattle and possibly bad feel through the suspension.
I'm probably being a bit needlessly nit picky though, and I'm certainly not trying to detract from what is a pretty revolutionary (In the Nova world) bit of engineering. :thumb:
Charles does plan to pack it with washers and yes it will probably knock, but no more than it did with the rose joint already there and dont forget that this car only ever gets used on track and probably only a few times a year.
We had the same conversation and he is right. The uniball front tie bar mounts that are commonly used are a different design with the bearing clamped in place.
I can't wait to try it, especially coupled with the squillion degrees of negative camber we'll get from re-doin the strut tops.
MC
Update please! We know you've been tinkerin!
Is that engine yours now - it's disappeared from http://www.eurorallye.co.uk/ website ??
Liking the upgrades & thinking behind them so far CP.
I'll pass judgement until its completed. Oli has some valid issues though IMO.
i've got a great bit of software for calculating roll centres and instaneous centres etc based on measurements taken from the car. you can adjust the camber, caster and toe and analyse the affects at full bump and rebound. would come in handy. will be interesting to see how much improvement is seen. liking the new lower arms.
Took the plunge after a bit of dithering about wondering just what would be the best way to go about it and particularly what the downsides were likely to be and chopped the top off my turrets
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...turrets003.jpg
realised I couldn't really do this properly so out came the firewalllol
The new turret tops are about ready to go in. I've got to do some measuring and put in some reference points to get them symetrical
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...turrets002.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...turrets001.jpg