benn if you decide to 4 stud again give me a shout if you wanna sell the 5 stud setup with the turbo wheels :thumb:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
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benn if you decide to 4 stud again give me a shout if you wanna sell the 5 stud setup with the turbo wheels :thumb:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
See i don't think it's all that bad, i know it is not slippy/sloppy like standard stuff, but then if you get the feel of it you'll learn to love it, i did/do, and can drive it fine with it, just takes a bit of thought to use it first.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Ask Iain/Mazz what they thought of it in mine, i just love the fact you can nail it, then dump it into the next gear and bang your in the back of seat and straight back in the power band again..
Rebuild plan sounds bang on mate..
Scott
That's a good point, i hadn't thought of that till now.. A spacer on the rear of the wish bone and then a bit of mount play on the front should sort that i hope.Quote:
Originally Posted by damen
Some one else has already asked about it all, sorry dude.Quote:
Originally Posted by w_wall_2001
I'm sure when your used to it its great yeah, but in traffic and stuff its not easy or nice is it... I still want the car to be fully usable and for me to be happy to take it on long drives to get parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by scott.parker
Cheers.
nice work on the gaitor benn, hopefully the one i had made will fit as i put an extra flap/skirt on it to go under the console
haha new lady , good news, like you said ud happily be a kept man lol
did you see my steering wheel?
tbh, at first i didn't realise Scott's had a paddle in it! Yes, it was a little snatchy, but nothing mega..
There not as bad as some people think, and I'm guessing they are all different pending on the type and what car there fitted in, as you say mines not massively off-on but is always there ready for the power when you need it to PERFORM.. :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazz
Cheers dude, when did i say about being a kept man? But yeah i would.. Think of the Nova you could build..lolQuote:
Originally Posted by sparkie1401
See your steering wheel?
Yeah? Cool, Jamie's was proper on/off, didn't like it at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazz
Yeah i know you get 6 and 4 which must make a big diff. Think i might do with a std clutch for the time, means i can spend the money on a diff in stead.Quote:
Originally Posted by scott.parker
Think what i might do if remove the F20, tie bar and lower arm, remove the gear box mount and get the F28 in, work out to get it fitting right and get the mount fitted. So i can test it all. Then remove engine and box and smooth and paint everything.
Then refit engine and box, then do the under sides.... But not sure if its best to do it that way or not..
Do it that way when. Getting the mount and especially linkage right can be a pain! Will be better to get it all running then strip down, smooth and spray.
you said once in "pics of your mrs", you'd happily be a kept man lol
my steering wheel in my WIP thread
Good choice on the box benn. Just take your time fitting the mount and take into account the fact the rubber engine mount will sag that will drop the box down a little bit once its all bolted up and the engine and box are hung off it properly.
That's that i'm thinking,Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
As to what Si said too, this is the bit that worries me, getting the box fitted in the right place to everything is level and works right. As there's no "fit it like this and it's perfect" or any guilds. Its just a case of get it level and sitting straight. What needs to be done to the linkage?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
F20 Quafe is fine in a F28 isn't it? Dave B has offered me his...
Wouldn't we all? lol I'll have a looking at your Wip.Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkie1401
I "think" the f20 quaiffe just need a spacer to fit the f28 but someone here will be able to confirm that.
Benn, while your engine is complete just bolt the f28 up and put it all back in to get a true idea of weight and sag as Rick has said then when you feel happy tack it up.
Just take your time fitting the mount and keep double checking it and check again!
To make sure my mate got the engine straight he tied some string to the strut top bolts on each side of the bay for a reference line. You could do this then take some measurements to where the engine sits at the moment with the F20.
Linkage wise we just cut the bar down as you would do with a corsa conversion. Sure someone on here will have a pic.
O and yes the F20 quaife will go in a F28 with a spacer the only thing needed. Steveboyslim on mig can supply you one of them i believe.
Si, gonna remove the f20 in the car and re fit the f28 in car then bolt it up and go that way so everything can be set up to where it should be.
Rick, that's quite a good plan. Only things to check are that the engine is level and straight tho.. No? But having it in car i can fit the shafts and everything to make sure every thing lines up ok.
I'll have a lookie for linkage pics, wasn't Dan selling them all rose jointed and stuff?
Cheers for the spacer info, that's the one you need for going 2wd too isnt it?
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98463
Bit of a guide that simps did on fitting the f28 and modding the linkage.
I've worried that I may of welded my f28 mount on a touch to low. So if it turns out I have, I'll mod the mount that bolts to the gearbox or make a new one so that the holes are lower that bolt to the rubber mount, thus lifting the gearbox up!
I slotted the holes on the gearbox mount (where it bolts to the rubber) so i could raise or lower the box a bit if i needed to.
Benn Dan was doing the linkages but he is a lazy lesbian and cud not be bothered doing them after he has made a couple (bit like the story of his life LMAO). O and yes its just to check its straight and level but it might also be worth checking how the engine fits at the min as you may find out its not 100% straight or level due to tolerances etc.
Double post
Ah cool i'll have a read.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben doodar
Good idea, i'll look in to that. That's about normal for Dan isn't it..lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
I'll have a look tomoz at taking so measurement to use to help work out what's level and what's not..
Cheers for the help.
Don't think having the gearbox mount holes slotted is a good idea, shouldn't need to either really, once you got it sitting exactly where you want it and its welded up its not going to anywhere.
If you are abit concerned about getting it level, weld the mount on a few mm higher then you can just space the mount from the chassis, lowering it to exactly where you want.
great mate keep up the good work!
No, two different things.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
The F20 diff needs a spacer so that the F28 bearing can fit on the F20 diff.
The 2wd drive thing is used to blank off where the transfer box used to go and create a seal round the inner CV.
Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by VXNova87
Oh right, i know about the 2wd spacer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee H
Where can i get a spacer for the diff from? Before i mess about buying a diff to have to buy more..
Whichever diff you buy you will have a spacer of some sort.
On a F28 one you need one to go over the inner CV before it goes into the diff and on an F20 one you just need one to take the F28 bearing.
I bought an F20 diff in the end as it was slightly cheaper.
Steveboyslim can provide the spacer for the F20 diff.
Dave B has offered me his diff, so i might buy that, if i can get it at the right price. That's in a F20 at the mo.. If not i'll have to buy one new..
If its new it will have the right spacer then? That will make it easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by R1CH
Top idea :thumb:
Meh slotted mounts FTW. Never had ant problem on my car and that had a slotted drivers side mount for years.
Yeah but yours didn't go anywhere for years Rick lol
++ rep added lol
lol cheers for the tips guys.
Loads of updates on a Benn thread containing technical info and no pretty pictures. :(
It never went any where period!lolQuote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Worst case it you do get it wrong you can just remove the gearbox mount and weld up the two mount holes and then re-drill them uin the correct position or do as Rick said slot the holes.
Good to see you gathering all of the info first mate. :thumb:
Cheeky, i always try and give tech info.. No pics yet as i've not done anything yet...Quote:
Originally Posted by L14MNP
Come on benn. I've checked the projects everyday waiting to see an update.
Enlighten us please. lol
Sorry dude.
So, i'm gonna fit the F28, gonna pop and pick up a empty casing for ease of fitting. I have the mount kit here ready. So i can start stripping the bay as soon as the guy i've asked to weld it on lets me know a price.
F28 will be rebuilt by Pitstoppete off Mig, I'll make the out sides look pretty. Will be fitted with a Quafe diff, new LUK clutch and a light weight billet flywheel.
Then i need to remove the engine for a bit of rebuilding fun. Might fit a set of APRs, get the engine all sorted, Picking up a Phase 2 ECU and boost adjuster thing which will be fitted along with a xe inlet cam and adjustable QED pulley.
Then i'll be smoothing in the F28 mount and working out if i paint the whole bay or not. While doing that i'll strip the under side bare and 3M seal that and paint that body colour. While i'm in the rear arches, might look in to turreting it too..lol
That will be a job for Mr Welder tho...
Not considering the paddle clutch then Benn?
I would mate..
Benn's not sold on them though.
i wouldnt go back now, nto with turbo power anyway
Personally i love them! makes me laugh, loads of people think there doing a burn out at the drag strip but most with a non sld and normal clutch are spinning the near side wheel and burning the clutch, i know with the atb and the paddle I'm doing a proper burn out etc, cant fault it..
Scott
I drove Jamie F's TB'ed Astra with one, really didn't like the on/off of it, have driven two Evos with them too and found them the same. I like the softness of a normal clutch, makes town/traffic driving easier.
Which is something i want. I have talked to vxlgsi who does the flywheels about uprated clutch bits. There arn't cheap! ButCant see i'm gonna get that out of what i've planned, so surely a normal one will be fine...Quote:
flat type with paddle will do 293lb/ft