if you have an f20 and it works fine with no issues then why change????
at your power level ben a f20 will last
Printable View
if you have an f20 and it works fine with no issues then why change????
at your power level ben a f20 will last
Lower rpm on the motorway would be nice.
Alex, what ever i do it will have a Quafe.
Get a F20 with a longer 5th gear ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
F28 Imo
Had thought of that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova_Tek
Yeah? Worth doing then?Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
F18W 5th in the F20 Benn? I plan on doing that to mine..
Yeah, Dan's planning on doing it to his GTE so was gonna see what it was like.
Thats like going from 2nd to 5th. Not as good an idea as it sounds.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazz
what you really need is a an F20 from an Astra GTE valver with the correct FD ratio to suit Nova sized tyres (outer rolling radius) (Cav's n calibras run a big balloon tyres)
But GTE's don't come with 195/45/16...
Yeah but they come with 185/55 R14 which is roughly the same size overall @)
Found on a longish drive i was having probs getting 5th gear. Thought it might be the cable hitting the linkage, till Dan noticed my gator was hitting the plastic on the gear stick..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_9342.jpg
Now seeing the Cav ones have a hard shaped base, i thought i'd copy it.
Take one ripped cover,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_9343.jpg
Cut the top off,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_9344.jpg
I then simply glued the leather gator over the top, so it keeps the shape..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_9345.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_9347.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_9348.jpg
Still not sure what to do on the gear box side tho....
Looks smart,
I'd stick with the f20 untill it gives up.... Or untill your current clutch gives up then it ll be time for f28 and a let clutch :)
That seems the sensible approach disco.
that gator look ****e !!!
just go to trimers and get a proper one made up :)
You prob wont see the very bottom part when its fitted though iirc.
Cheers,Quote:
Originally Posted by LEWI007
Tbh that is what i'm thinking about, the clutch does slip when i nail it in 5th..Quote:
Originally Posted by discoinferno
Might just start buying the bits up so its ready when i wanna do it.
Does look that way.. But then you have said fit the F28 in.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Why? Nova Gators are just a soft cover.. The bottom bit you can see you wont as the console sits over all that. Its there just for shape.Quote:
Originally Posted by djbrowney
like yours and then sell it alllolQuote:
Originally Posted by djbrowney
Definately go f28 without question imo. What disco says makes economical sense. If its already slipping then just do it!
Paddle clutch friction plate ftw..
Yeah? As said the clutch is starting to slip, but then again it was a £35 remanufacterd one that's done 30k now..lolQuote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Been talking to Vxl guy on Mig that does the flywheels over a billet fly and uprated clutch, might have them both.Quote:
Originally Posted by scott.parker
I'd just buy a GM clutch kit, they are fine for the power your running. Few mates have them in 300hp motors that get abused with no issues.
I can get a std LUK kit off the shelf at work.
I fitted a new LUK turbo clutch and it slipped in 5th and 6th, have ended up with a Helix paddle now as its not nice taking the box on and off.
uSay no more....Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee H
Really? I drove Jamie F's Astra GTE with a paddle and didn't like the on/off ness of it, i want normal clutch feel...Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee H
Guy on Mig does the uprated stuff, might be better to go for that then if you think the LUK stuff wont last.
I don't like the paddle but it was the only one guaranteed not to slip so I had no alternative. Tried an uprated Helix cover with new turbo friction plate and it still slipped.
I ran a std LUK GM clutch on mine for a good 18 month without it slipping once, that was with a brandnew billet flywheel as well.
That was with Phase2 @ 1bar, loads of 1/4 mile runs as well, when i was looking into sorting it all loads of folk seemed to be using the std LUK clutch without anyprobs.
Oh right, what power are you running thru it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee H
Good to know, Ph2 is the most mine will get, never done a 1/4mile run either so maybe a std LUK on would be ok..Quote:
Originally Posted by R1CH
I was running a std clutch too Benn on mine for ages until it smashed to bits. Replaced it with another std one and never had to replace it again. If you can get a std kit cheap Benn I'd try that option first.
Yeah? See i know how you drive, so that makes me feel better.
Sat looking at the car today... Think i'm gonna take itt off the road, its been wet for the last 3days so... If i can help it keeping it a bit drier will help it in the long run. So many things i wanna do tho might turn in to a night mare...
Sounds like a plan then benn I bought a standard gm clutch for my let paid £60 off eBay for it. I spoke to a couple of guys I know from a vauxhall garage and they said almost any gm clutch for a let will be remanufactured from luk.
What are the other plans for it then benn. I Will look forward to more progress.
Sounds like a plan then benn I bought a standard gm clutch for my let paid £60 off eBay for it. I spoke to a couple of guys I know from a vauxhall garage and they said almost any gm clutch for a let will be remanufactured from luk.
What are the other plans for it then benn. I Will look forward to more progress.
Cheers Ben, plan wise.
Swap gear box,
Weld on mount and smooth in, which means paint side of or whole bay.
Re build gear box with a Quafe diff, make box look pretty,
Billet flywheel with new clutch,
Rebuild engine,
build up for Ph2,
Fully polish exhaust system,
Strip under side, bare metal, plate o/s rear sunroof drain, re seal under sides with the 3M stuff and paint,
New fuel lines,
Still want new wheels, so that means going back to 4stud.
Think that's it.
get cracking lol
plans sound good
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Not much then! May as well strip to a bare shell and send for acid dip at sametime! lol
Nick.
lol Cheers Edd, lots to do, but its one of those if i can this then i can do that...
Nick, just a few jobs. To much filler from smoothing for that.. lol lol (joke)
Sounds awesome. So you have decided on the f28? Best way IMO. Are you going body coloured underneath? Are you going for standard spec internals? And have you decided on any wheels yet? I'm sure at the way you work Ben you'll have it done in a month! lol
Ben,
Its prob just best to fit the F28, as the clutch will want doing soon anyway and i wanna rebuild the engine.
Yes fully colour coded underneath, std engine. swapping head as i have one i've very slowly building (will sell my Coscast turbo head on Ebay for mega money as they love them.. lol) Might fit some ARPs just cause i'll be in there. Do any and all seals and gaskets i didn't last time.
No clue on wheels yet, want a more Euro feeling wheel, just a bit different.
Doing the work will be done over say 2 months, as and when i can. Have a new lady to keep happy now too..lol
Nice choice going for the f28 benn will really finish the car IMO how are you going to get round the ARB lowering side of things run spacers? or mod the crossmember? will be intresting to see.
Damo.