when did you do the wing mirrors aswell? never noticed them before
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when did you do the wing mirrors aswell? never noticed them before
The sfi box over power cap is a long running testing thing. Chassis legs take a beating if you jack the car up alot, i use a bit of wood covered in a bit of jumper after making mine better.
Good work wit the cams.
Get it on the rollers to make sure the cams are doing what they should be and also take the SFi for a 'like for like' comparison with the power cap.
When are you replacing my spare cam shaft seals you thief? and no I don't want cheap motorfactor ones I want Elring :p
Wing mirrors have been black for ages.
Yeah I jack the car up but usually a little further forward than that where it meets the other leg piece. Not sure how thats happened but oh well.
Rollers would be nice, I'll take it to the next club day. SFI box is a pain to refit though as I need to remove oil cooler, rollcage bar, etc, etc!
This is without a doubt my favourite WIP, I like how you do everything yourself, and all documented (I've saved a few pics for my own reference!) So are the cams a direct swop for a standard XE, bar the drive slot? Worth doing then? Are they expensive?
Glad the pics are of use Mazz, figured things like the dizzy chopping would be helpful to people. Those cams were reground using standard XE later model dispac ones, requiring the dizzy modification. I imagine they'd regrind earlier ones if you gave them some tho and they'd fit the dizzy fine.
I got them second hand, not sure how much Kent charge for the regrinding, if I were to get some done Autosprint look quite reasonably priced, or the QED Q42H's look nice too. According to Kent's site they're mild injection cams so should work fine with the standard ECU.
I think TJ is referring to the little bits of gold you've added to the mirrors.
Love the track action, nice save on the 2nd video ;)
You say that like you know where it's been.
By that comment I suspect i'm right then :wisewood:
Looking really good mate, really like the action shots out on the track mate :cool:
Iain
Nice work Iain.
I saw this on CS and thought you might be interested in them Iain for a bit more power?
http://www.corsasport.co.uk/board/vi...php?tid=643037
But how do you add more power if the ecu is the same? Surely it needs to be re mapped, or replaced?
Hey Mieran, I've looked at stuff like that before when a Dbilas setup came up for sale for similar money. Not sure if it's a worthwhile route going down, the reviews of the Dbilas setup seemed quite mixed.
Scott yeah I guess it's down to the better design/airflow/throttle response, and probably an ECU map to suit the changes?
Would definitely want an AFR gauge with that on though!
I'm currently chasing seeking idle, cutting out, misfiring and aftermarket revlimiter not working. :(
Howd you come to that conclusion!? You have a standard airflow meter so if it flows more air, it alters the fuelling. I set up an fpr on my xe when it was running injection, on a rolling road. Went from 160hp at 14:1, to 164 at 12.1:1.
Easy to see how a dblias set-ups work!
ECU is obviously mapped on a standard inlet blah blah.
If the ecu could simply fuel according and adjust to the amount of air flowing through the afm, and then give the correct output for any circumstances then you would only ever need a single ecu, to run any engine... lol
It cant learn that way.
It see's lets say "20" incoming air, looks at coolant temp etc, and then injects say "50" fuel because thats what programmed on its map.
That would be good for the engine the ecu was designed with, but now the engine has a completely different inlet tract and flow characteristics it will not need that "50" fuel anymore.
Thats trying to put it a simple way anyhow lol
I remember a guy on mig put dbilas bodies on his c16xe (standard ecu), it sounded nice, made more peak power(at higher peak rpm) but it was actually slower on track and down 1/4mile, by a long way too.
chimp007-14:1 afr isnt best for peak power, hence why you saw a change...
I took the Nova out for 15 minutes earlier today to warm up the oil ready for an oil change, ended with me at the side of the road and getting a tow back. Started running on three cylinders and a loud clattering noise from the top end.
Whipped the rocker cover off to find this, to the left and right of the cam cap are #2 exhaust cylinders. Slight problem here!
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/698.JPG
Pulled the exhaust off and my mate said "watch this" and proceeded to do this with his fingers through the exhaust port lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dePMW...ature=youtu.be
Engine stripped down again to assess the problem/damage
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/699.JPG
Come out little valve we won't hurt you lol
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/700.JPG
For some unknown reason it's snapped one of the valve springs (new when built 12k ago). Luckily I didn't run it for too long after it happened, although the valve has been touching the piston as it moved when I cranked it by hand when it was timed up.
Will have the head off in a couple of weeks when I have time and crack on with fixing it, but it's a good opportunity to do the stem seals when I'm there as it's burning oil anyway.
invest in some new gm springs.
They were a set of brand new GM springs when I built it. :(
erm warranty???
Hmm bought May 2010 via a mate who could get trade prices, think I've shot myself in the foot there.
buy double valve springs the bigger cams are probably botteming out the spring
sorry to see this mate, could be worse I'm sure this isn't going to tax your skills :)
you think its pure coincidence this happening after the lumpy cam going in?
Not good dude, hope there's no other unseen damage, sometimes bend valves an jam the guides in?
Oh bugger, uprated ones the way forward.
You reckon? If the springs were bottoming out I'd expect loud clattering or some sort of mechanical locking as the camshaft wouldn't be able to turn properly?
Everything has gone wrong since trying to mod it tbh lol This week I've had to replace the ICV to resolve the dodgy idle and fit a new coil to fix some hefty misfires. I don't know if the cams have caused this tbh
Undecided whether to fit just one new one, a full new set of standard ones or upgrade them while I've got the chance. Upgrade is probably overkill as I won't be revving beyond 7500 or going much more wild on the cams.
ive got a gm head sat in my shed that you can BORROW while the work is happening to your current one, if it needs to get on the road quickly
(mind you it is untested so dont know how helpfull this offer really is :tard:)
NP there's no rush to get it fixed, there's no trackdays booked at the mo!
If the springs aren't man enough it'll valve bounce, sometimes very audible but if it's only very slight it might just feel like the limiter is coming in. But this will happen dynamically, cams will 'fire' the valve away from theirselves at high speed, you won't necessarily notice it just turning the engine over.
Just one of the bizarre things with cars, upgrade something and it starts failing left right and centre!
Personally I'd avoid standard replacements on a car the age of a Nova, you've no idea if they've been sat on a shelf for 20 years and in what conditions. If they are new 'standard' replacements the quality is probably questionable as third party parts are getting worse and worse recently. I'd talk to whoever your cams are done by and ask what they recommend, going too stiff will actually lose you power as the engine is turning over rock hard springs.
On with fixing my valve spring problem. Head off.
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/701.JPG
It all looks carbony but the bores look good, no scoring or damage
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/702.JPG
Head off with problem valve:
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/703.JPG
Rest of head looks pretty good, some weird build up on a few of the exhaust valves though?
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/704.JPG
And the cause of it all! Valve is good, spring is in three pieces lol
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/705.JPG
I'd like some advice on the head gasket please... You can see some darker marks between the cylinders on the head, and also on the block. Check the pics above for what I mean. Does this imply there's been some sealing problems around the bores?
I'm using a Cometic 1.9mm MLS headgasket, if the marks are possibly sealing issues I may look to using a standard gasket but I'm a little unsure.
Well I think I've decided to go back to a standard headgasket due to the marks on the head and block, it'll have a slightly higher compression but will hopefully seal better.
On with the head build...
Wonder why it was burning lots of oil lol
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/706.JPG
Stripped and cleaned:
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/707.JPG
Cleaned all the deposits off the valves:
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/708.JPG
Cleaned (ish lol) the head and relapped the valve seats:
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/709.JPG
1x new early valve spring!
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/710.JPG
All done!
http://iainel.co.uk/images/forums/NovaWIP2a/711.JPG
Looks like your gasket has been blowing across. Was the block decked and head skimmed when you rebuilt it? And was it ground or fly cut ('diamond' finish like a scene whores wheels lol). MLS will be very sensitive to surface finish.
Yes pretty much what I expected and a thread on MIG confirmed. There's a clean silver line as if it's been sealing around each chamber but it's happened somehow.
Head was skimmed, block was checked and confirmed OK and he wasn't keen on decking it as he thought it'd had it before.
Unsure how it was done, I do suspect it's not perfect enough for MLS so popping a standard gasket on for the rebuild (choice between GM, Payen and Elring!)