Cheers :)
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Cheers :)
Didnt get that much done today.
Got the stick connected to the linkage, roughly lined up in neutral, and then marked the 4 holes out in the plate to bolt it down.
Holes drilled and bolts fitted temporarily
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/01ce834f.jpg
Removed again to paint the floor, quick blast of good 'ole satin black
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/ed97fc1e.jpg
Rebolted the shifter back in, and set the linkage with the help of a mate.
And all seems well :d
I did have to extend the cut in the bulkhead slightly because the rod was rubbing it in 1st/3rd gear.
So i opened it up a bit more, and then covered the hole with some rubber matting.
Last pic i got, everything refitted inside. Sorry about the quality due to me only having my phone on me, but you get the idea
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/41d567b7.jpg
All seems good, the stick moves in 6 different places, so it seems ok. Obviously i cant be sure until ive got a running engine.....
Definently got 1/2/3/4/R gears, but 3rd and 5th seem a bit "close" on the stick, so might need a re-adjustment when i get the thing running again.
Tomorrow on with the go-tech loom!!! Might even get the bodies properly bolted on too :)
Can you not lock the gearstick then lock the gearbox to set the linkage??
Like in Haynes? Yeah should be able to, i never usually do it that way tbh though. Neutral/Neutral method has never failed me
Good work Adam.
Neutral box & stick method has always worked for me too, often perfect 1st time.
I only set it today once, and it seems spot on. Beats pissing about with a drill bit and crap lol
How? lol
Alan key in gearstick, pop the pin in the gearbox and tighten bolt. That is perfect thats why its there
you need to explain this allen key bit to me, because the haynes method of push it so it's next to the 1st/2nd gate in neutral method took me a few attempts to get right lol
It wont work on a nova, but with the cav/calibra shifter theres a hole in the stick and hole in the surround you can fit an allen key/screwdriver in. So will hold the gearstick over the the left of neutral. Then on the box (looking from front of car) you push the linkage over to the right, put a drill bit (some boxes have a yellow sprung pin) into a hole in the turret, then move the linkage back towards the left the pin will lock it in place. Then tighten up the clamp and release the pins.
Means no need for a second person and lines up first time guarenteed
If the gears dont seem right when i get the engine running,i'll give that method a go :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich
would be good to know if it still works in the nova with a cav shifter. I dont see why it wouldnt though
The fact it's not in quite the same place as it would be relative to the gearbox may throw it slightly (i'm thinking mounted at an angle and going straight up/down into gears making it more \ or / than | at the gearbox end) but other than that as long as it sets it at the 1st gate neutral position, it should be the same movements through the same linkageQuote:
Originally Posted by Rich
I dont see why it wont work tbh.
The stick in neutral, is in neutral, no matter what car its in.
Withthe box locked in a gear, with the stick locked in the same gear, you're just clamping the two together via the linkage.... If you get me. So cant see anything stopping it from working.
aye no more pv09 problems eh lad
Lets fooking hope not!! lol
That was a right nightmare, i drove down to Portsmouth from Pod using just 3rd and 4th gears lol
It will work fine. tbh its an awesome system. the nova one isnt hard ether, against the left gate in the middl of its throw and hold it there.
Good going dude! you'll notice the difference mate..
Rich, that method does work :)
Never noticed the hole in the shifter rod and in the case before today lol
Bit of an update.
Shifter done and dusted for good hopefully
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/22b48632.jpg
Then fitted the inlet up to the head to see how well it matches the inlet ports, looks fine and has no steps, so that'll do for me.
Hello Mr Valves
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/794bccf4.jpg
Soooo, got the bodies bolted to the inlet and put them on, noticed an issue though, when i swung the alternator back to tighten the belt the alternator casing was fouling the underside of no1 body :(
Out came Gary to the rescue, it dont foul no more lol lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/a12842ee.jpg
Bodies on for good, XE creams fitted, throttle linkage and cable fitted. All is good
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/6cb2646a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/65418cdf.jpg
Just need to mount the pressure regulator somewhere, dont fancy drilling holes so may just cable tie its mount plate around the strut brace or something for now..... :)
Tomorrow, get the TPS/CTS/Crank sensor plugs soldered back onto the Go-Tech loom, and hopefully get the loom in. Need sort the wiring for the fuel pump relay/fan relay etc too. Hoping i can get all the wiring done tomorrow!!!!!
Gary the grinder lol
Good work Ad, shouldn't be long now..
Looking good dude. Sure i've had to shave that bit off an alt before too..
I wouldnt of had to if i had a shorter alternator belt, its just with the alternator being on a pivot kind of bracket, if lifts up as it moves back....
Easy solution though :cool:
Go-Tech loom is now sorted and all spot on accoridng to the multi meter. Just got the loom fitted in the car, layout seems spot on, so im happy :)
Just need to actually wire the loom into the car tomorrow and mount the ecu somewhere. Probably bolt it to the underside of the dash, or around the roll cage leg :)
Oh and need wire up some relays too, one for fuel pump, one for ecu 12v, and tother for rad fan. :d
Sounds good, weirdly looking forward to a power figure even though experience means its probably within 10bhp or so of my guess :P
Which is?!
Which is ZERO atm lol
Having some issues, the GoTech isnt getting any rpm signal when cranking. I know the crank sensor works because its the same one ive always had....
Apart from that issue everything is spot on, tps/air temp/cts all look acceptable figures, fuel pump comes on with ignition etc.
Its just not going to do a lot if it thinks the engine isnt being cranked.
HMMMM, not sure what to try TBH
hmmm been there mate lol.
mine fired today; see electrical in technical
ill have a think about that cranking prob
I THINK i know what the issue is.
Had a search on mig and turns out another guy was having the same problem, he had to file down the crank sensor bracket to get the sensor sitting stupidly close to the trigger teeth. Easy solution on a small block because its all externally mounted...
That sorted his problem straight away.
Not so easy on a xe where the crank sensor points inside the crankcase and bolts to a cast iron block:cry::cry:
Bugger.... :wall:
Cant you shave some off the bottom of the sensors case?
I had this problem too, dont file your crank sensor we tried this, ended up buying a new one. after some further research it turned out it needed re flashed with new firmware.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
This was the reason I didnt make pvs 08 lol
Where did you get the new firmware from Linch???
Ive got a V6 ecu.
I was going file the crank sensor :(
Nothing really else i can do TBH??
I dont know anyone with GoTech on a xe/let either so cant ask what they did. Everyone seems to have used it on small block 16v's
Looked in the Go-Tech manual and it says "Crank sensor air gap must be no more than 0.3mm", apparently a std xe trigger/sensor gap is like 1mm+
Is there no other crank sensor off any other vauxhall you can try ad that sit any closer perhaps off 8v small block?Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
Going up there in a bit to try swapping the crank sensor wires round.
And if that dont work going try filing the sensor slightly to try and get it sitting nearer to the trigger.
Thats what Broster from jamsport has suggested anyways.
just goy myself up to date with it all ad , looking very good mate , goin to be more of a weapon this year :thumb:
why not get your bottom pullet machined to give you the 60-2 triggerpattern mount the sensor then as close or as far away as you like! its what they have to do on autronic as that refuses to work on the xe/let internal; trigger setups
Cheers Riggy.
Discoinferno-That is an option mate yeah, just annoying how it SHOULD work and its not lol
But saying that i dont know anyone with a let/xe on GoTech, so maybe they all have issues with internal trigger discs.
It is something bare in mind though.
there are only 3 people i know to try run them on let's and all got rid without getting it running!Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
nic barnes did manage to get his running but not well
adam on mig web his mate tried fitting it to cav turbo without success
and don greening on migweb also tried to get his corsa running on it and failed, all reverted to std management apart from nick who opted for the k3 and worked fine using std trigger disc
Sounds quite a familiar problem then!! lol
I keep hearing someone whispering to me "Fit a LET on evo5" :roll: lol
Got a few pics on the way, nothings happening like but it at least looks ok pmsl lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/49b19e90.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/e58b31a7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/cc120e86.jpg
Also tried on the gte front end, bit 50/50 at the minute, when the bumper etc is resprayed though it will look cool IMO!
Naked, but minty mint front!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/8d5ec51c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...P/e871562a.jpg
NO ADAM, on the bumper
it might be passable, if you do what i did with mine, black blue black