ADES GARAGE V2! **now with pics! **

Ade - I frequently rattle on at the gf about this nova, then last night we had a little convo. It went something like this...

gf - "is Ade going to Cheltenham?"
me - "afraid not... he lives in Scotland"
gf - "oh thats a shame.... I like Scotland"
me - "been there before... didn't like it"
gf - "maybe we could go in October for a week"
me - "only if we can go see Ade and his nova one day so I can buy him a beer"
gf - "ok then"
me - (at this point I could no longer talk as she had just agreed to go to Scotland to see a nova.)

pmsl!

I have 4 bedrooms - feel free to come for a "working weekend" - could do with some help!

lol

great pictures ....and some nice work going on in them


ya've got balls i must say...but its all starting 2 come 2gether pretty well

goood man

Saturday 26/08/2006

Today I are mostly be reinforcing my new bonnet extension and starting to blend in the extension to the Nova bonnet. I also cut the front down to the right size to allow for my custom grille.

The 1st task was to strengthen the extended front section. To do this I used the existing Punto inner structural section I separated from the bonet when I originally attached it (see prev pics in earlier posts). As the Punto bonnet is wider than the Nova one I had to cut a section out of the centre of the reinforced section and modify the rear part so it would lock into what was the front underside of the Nova bonnet. The new structural sections would then slot back into the folds on the light surrounds and then be married up with the front part of the outer skin, which I'd cut down so it sat about 2" below the top of the lights creating a little lip.

The following pics show the reinforced underside which has been rivetted and liquif welded in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights88.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights90.jpg


Once this had cured I started to blend in the new extension. I removed all the paint from the extension and some from the nova bonnet so I could ensure a really solid bond with the resin/filler.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights86.jpg

This would prevent it from cracking as well as the filler would bond directly to metal which like paint doesnt flake off (one of the reasons filler cracks). I started by laying on resin (fibrol which is chapped fibreglass in resin).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights85.jpg

I then built up layers of filler to smooth the join. This will take a while to complete satisfactorily - the green bit is the filler

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights83.jpg

Theres still lots of work to do on the bonnet to get it totally smooth but the following pics show the shortened front section and progress to date -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights82.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights80.jpg

Its starting to take shape and character. Note the wings areent lined up correctly and the bonnet looks uneven because the bonnet details dont line up with the new extension. this will be fixed later.

I also need to smooth the bottom part of the front of the bonnet - again to be done later. But you get the idea...

quality work mate :thumb: keep it up

Dude!!! That is looking really smart. Checking this thread has started to become the high point of my weekend!

:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

lookin good man keep it up

Fair play to you mate, thats some god damn impressive work you've done there!!! Hats off to you, keep up the good work!:thumb:

mint. really taking shape.

how are u gonna line the wings up? just cut the edge of and weld and eyebrow type of piece on?

That looks ace with punto lights on! I want one! Top stuff Ade :thumb:

Re the wings, I'll fettle a metal shape and bond it on smoothing with filler.

Tuesday 29/08/2006

A day off work!

The plan today was to replace the metal surrounds that line the arch. Mine are totally shot as you can see from these pics

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rust4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rust5.jpg

The idea was to cut back the rust, remove the sound deadening and bond a new inner surround to good metal. I want to take the surround right round the whole inner arch so mud from the wheels and the road doesnt splash right up into the inner wings and outer wings and rust them to feck.

That was the plan...

I started by making a template of the existing surround and extending it to the back of the light housing. Ill secure this with brackets.

Before i could do this however I needed to remove the fecking sound proofing. People say this stuff isn absolute barsteward to shift however I found if you heat it up and remove some of it with a scraper, then heat it again and get one of those metal brush attachments for the drill it comes away pretty easily. Its fecking messy mind!

Unfotrunately the sound deadening hid a host of horrors! (as it does)

The bottom of the surrounds were totally rusted right through to the sub frame and on the drivers side had actualluy compromised the cabin area.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rust6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rust3.jpg

As you can see its right though to the main part of the car and at the bottom could weaken the jacking points.

In addition to that, one of the welds on the passenger side stut top had gone totally. Thankfully the adjoining metal was intact.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rust2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rust1.jpg

So the old girl needs more welding.

Now at this stage most would just scrap the shell but I've spent too much now to turn back. Rang up the local body shop that did my front lower valance but he's fully booked now for ages so phoned the garage in the next village (who specialise in agricultural machinery) and because my wife has her horsebox repaired/serviced there, they said they take it this weekend and get her sorted (cheers Angus!).

So, back to the shop she goes this weekend - hopefully I'll get her back in a couple of weeks (theyre squeezing her in between other jobs as they dont usually work on cars).

Other things I did today - sealed the light housings and bolted the lights in place - checking I could actually get bolts into the holes. Its a tight squeeze but they fit fine and are really solid.

Whilst the Novas away I'll get on with the models. Need to start making them again.

I'm also going to look at how I can smooth my rear number plate recess without welding a plate. Have some ideas so will keep you posted...

Todays injuries - face full of hot waxoyl/melted sound deadening after I had my drill on the wrong direction and a nasty cut on the soft fleshy part of my thumb at the bottom that wouldnt stop bleeding for ages. Healed up nicely now though.

:thumb:

nice to see something different ade - keep it up, however wouldnt it be cheaper to learn how to weld?

Phil

wish i had a welder a garage a ramp and some welding skills!

Id really recommend picking up a mig welder and do it yourself. Would make it a lot easier for you to do all your cool body modifications. Plus you can fix any more rusty suprises you find along the way. I taught myself to weld in a day, and just today i welded my suspension turret which was in a similar state as yours. The welding is the easy bit really, its all the sanding down to remove rust to prepare the surface that takes ages.

think I'll be getting a welder for Christmas. Quite like the idea of making funky sh1te with it plus will be handy for patching up the Nova...

however this time I wanna just get the job done. the cost of getting it done properly will be same as I;d pay forking out for all the equipment...

Excellent work Ade,and i love the way your showing us every little thing :) ,mine is gone in the exact same places as yours,in the same way,and im fixing it myself,isnt too hard when youv got the mig hehe! Anyway looking forward to seeing more progress,keep it up!

Wednesday 30/08/2006

Managed to get away from work early(ish) today so had a couple of hours in the garage.

Operation radiator.
One of the problems I have is the location of my radiator. The Punto lights encroach on the existing mounting points for the radiator on thre passenger side by about an inch. I had to remove the upper slam panel (the bit where the bonnet locks into to fit the lights and the problem was how do I relocate the radiator an inch to the drivers side and then reattach the upper slam panel.

Well I managed to crack the 1st part oif the radiator mounting a few weeks ago (see prev pages for drawing) and decided to put it into practice.

The idea is basically to make a rail that the radiator will sit in which is bolted to the existing mounting points. The radiator will then sit in pre drilled holes an inch to the drivers side.

I started by measuring the distance between the 2 mounting points and then going a little beyond them. Totalled 75cm.

I then took 2 L shaped metal bars and cut 2 lengths. The bars have oval slits in them which allows me to bolt them together. Conveniently theyre exactly the same width when bolted as the main part of the radiator so its held in place securely across the whole bottom length.

I had to make modifications to the now U shaped section at points where the radiator was wider than the U shape (at the ends).

Heres the U section -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad8.jpg

Heres the section mounted on to the radiator -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad7.jpg

It sits on the lower valance as follows -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad1-1.jpg

It's held in place by 2 bolts either end which slot into the existing rubber mounts and are then secured by bolts from the inside (bolts are added before inserting the rubber mounts however there are convenient access slots underneath the lower valance allowing access to them).

And heres the radiator in situ -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad11.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad10.jpg

Theres plenty of clearence on both sides and as its only been moved an inch there shouldnt be any additional stress on the hoses.

As you can see I now have plenty of room on the passenger side to create a new mounting point if I need to and the light housing is no longer fouling the radiator.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad4.jpg

I'm considering rather than have a side mounting point instead having 2 upper mounting points. I may have side points as well although I need to see how the upper slam panel will be attached. That's the next task...

Tomorrow I'm hoping to work that bit out and then strip back the carpets and wiring from the corners so I can get the additional welding done (so it doesnt catch fire).

:eek: my god ade..thats phenominal work there...the bonnet work is unreal..

really takin a shining to this nova.. big :thumb: :thumb: from me an keep the pics coming!!!:D

cheers!

wifes moaning that I'm not spending much time with her though...

them head light things you have made are you getting them welded in or just leaving the on with riverts

I'm leaving them in place with rivets and Ive also used a special automotive adhesive to give extra strength. Theryre totally solid. I must have used over 150 rivets so far.

Thursday 31/08/2006

Managed to blag another 1/2 day todayso started work on securing what remains of my upper slam panel where the bonnet locks into.

This is another tricky part of the front end as it needs to line up exactly as it has to secure not only the bonnet but also the top of the radiator.

I started by degreasing the panel - it was caked in years of dirt and greese. Once clean I stripped down the bonnet pin and catch and degreased them also (just whilst I lined everything up).

I started by locking rhe bonnet into the slam panel and then lining up the centre metal support with the lower valance. I had to make 2 metal extensions to secure the centre column in place - this was due to the bottom welds being drilled out when I changed my lower valance initially.

Bonnet locked into the remains of the slam panel -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad14.jpg

Bottom support secured using liquid weld (the grey stuff) and rivets. The excess grey stuff can be removed later -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad16.jpg


I calculated that the distance from the back of the new light housings to the front part of the slam panel was exactly 6cm. Theres is a few mm's tolerence in this which is handy -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad23.jpg

Once I'd worked out the distances I needed to work out how to secure it. The problem is the existing panel was supported from the sides - welded into the inner wings, the light housings and down the sides into the engine bay. It was also cushioned by the radiator mountings on the top and side.

The first task was to make plates to secure the front section. I measured and cut out 2 plates which would join the inner section of the new light housings with the ends of the slam panel.These would secure it and stop it moving side to side -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad21.jpg

These will be braced underneath between the front of the panel and back of the light housings for additional strength.

This secures the front but the panel still flexes up and down when the bonnet is lifted. To stop this I need to brace each end of the panel and also support it from underneath.

I fashioned 2 brackets that will support the underside of the panel and attach it to the engine bay.

I then made card templates for the end sections -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad19.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad18.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad20.jpg

These are rough looking but will be tidied up when made in metal.

The side supports will be hidden beneath the white card templates and lock into the underside of the panel.

I'll not assemble any of this until I've stripped the paint away from the joining points - this will ensure a tough bond.

Once this is done I can work out how to secure the radiator. I can see basically where the top mount should go -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/rad15.jpg

However cant attach it until I know the definate location of the radiator in relatioon to the underside of the slam panel. I'm not sure if it site back so the topcooling fan mounting clip is exposed or whether the radiator is more towards the front of the car so the cooling fan clip is underneath the slam panel.

That's tomorrow's game (along with removing anything that may burn for the welding).

gettin there then i c lol

Keep it up matey

L

Friday 01/09/2006

Managed to Pull another 1/2 day from work (I love it when its quiet) so spent all afternoon and late into the evening in the garage.

Cars going to the Garage on Saturday to get more welding done (see earlier posts re this) so need to secure the bonnet, remove any sound deadening from inside and clear back any wires from the footwells - of which there are loads!

Using the templates I made the day before, I made a couple of minor modifications and cut 2 plates out from galvanised steel. These will secure the bonnet section of whats left of my slam panel in place.

Took ages to get them right but in the end theyre really tough and lock the panel totally. More strength will be added once the radiator is in place and the top mounting of the rad is secured.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights94.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights93.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...a/lights96.jpg

However when bolting it all together somehow the panel moved 5mm to the drivers side so now when the bonnet closes the fecking thing moves too far to the left. 5mm is enough to make the gaps in the wings uneven!

So I had to drill out all the rivets and relocate it again!

:mad: pain in the anus! :mad:

It's really solid and now sits properly even if it did take me till 10.30pm!

The grey stuff is sealer - this will be cleaned up once cured.

Although the lock mechanism is secure I'm contemplating getting a set of bonnet pins instead of using the lock. That way I'll know it's secure...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ade

Although the lock mechanism is secure I'm contemplating getting a set of bonnet pins instead of using the lock. That way I'll know it's secure...

---

Why not use both?

I've decided to get some bonnet pins (solex locking ones) and remove the bonnet pin. The ones I've seen (made by Rage) are descreet units and should look good on the bonnet.

Got a call from the local garage doing the welding on my car (the inner arches and passenger suspension post needed patching up) and they advised its ready for collection. I went up the other day to have a look and to tell them what i weanted for mounting points and it looked really good based on what they'd done at the time. Mounting point wise, I've asked them to fit pads to the bottom so my trolley jack will fit snug on them (2ton one always lives in the boot).

Should get it back Saturay morning.

:thumb:

Thursday 07/09/2006

Operation Boot Flush

Tonight, I are mostly be flushing my boot.


Theres several ways to do this -

Theres the "fibreglass panel" approach which always looks a little dodgy and requires some serious bodge work (and never quite looks right).

Theres the professional "welded plate" approach which is strong, ever lasting but costs a fair bit.

And theres the "ades rivet" approach - explained below.

I figured its not a structural section and the basic concept was to make a stiff plate that can be secured with minimal fuss and then skimmed with filler (as with the welded approach). Mty idea was to to make a plate with folded edges that can be rivetted from behind and from the front in places. this will be further secured using this liquid weld stuff I;ve been using which I have to say I'm really impressed with.

I started with an old mk2 boot I had spare. I removed all anciliaries (wiper, motor etc) and took some measurements and made a card template of the basic recessed area. I made it a fraction smaller all round so that the plate would sit shallow in the recedd, allowing it to be skimmed over with filler.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot7.jpg

Once the template was made, I added wings and worked out the underside that would conceal the recess from the bottom.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot8.jpg

the wings would fold back the way and sit behind the plate, angled down to fit the contour of the recess. These would them be rivetted in place from behind with additional rivets. on the face.

The pattern was then transposed onto a sheet on 1mm thick galvanised steel and cut out

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot6.jpg

I then spent a few hours hammering, bending and generally shaping the sheet (unfortunately I didnt take any pics) but basically all the folds bend behind the front of the main plate. I then tested the fit and made minor adjustments.

I took measurements and drilled a series of holes along the top of the recess in the boot and down the sides - theres limited access along the bottom of the sides so planned to rivet from the outside (the plate is recessed enough to take the height of a rivet head - which if necessary can be filed flat).

To ensure a really strong bond, I removed the paint from the area that would be bonded -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot10.jpg

Liquid weld was them applied and the plate was fastened in place.

Heres the finished result (prior to smoothing off) -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot1.jpg

heres the underside (still to be sealed and completed - metals just been tapped in place provisionally) -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot2.jpg

and this image shows it looking pretty smooth -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boot4.jpg

The sheet has been hand bashed so there are hammer marks on it but the best thing is it sits flush and is totally solid.

The next task is to remove excess liquid weld once cured, back fill with expanding foam and skim with filler...but before I do any of that I need to fit my new lock which is a VW Golf mk5 boot release. It's one of the ones where the badge lifts up and actucvates a solenoid opening the boot. Its pretty big and will dominate the rear of the car but will be a totally original feature. I'll replace the vw sign with an opel/vauxhall one 1st though and then have chrome trim coming off the sides for additional detailing (similar to the fromt grill detail of new opels).

I'll post more pics when I start that bit...

let me know what you think.

Ade do you even need to ask what we think.
It looks fantastic and the way you've done the boot panel is a good way for those unfortunates that cant weld (me included) to use.

Nice idea with the boot lock too. You are a very resourceful fella.

I thank you!

need to see how it will come out though - I think it maybe just a little too big - but I'll draw a template 1st to assess its looks...

I have to agree, your a legend in being able to do all that without lifting a welder, look forward to seeing the finished result!

to be honest being a panel beater myslef its a good idea but it wont last 5mins

Hmm its a good idead but ild say it would crack after awile,hmm......hopefully the back wont rust up on you either :O

I dont agree.

It will last more than 5 mins - I have other areas on the car that have been liquid welded and rivetted (my passenger rear arch for starters!) and its as solid as it was 5 years ago - with no rust.

It wont crack - cracking occurs due to using too much filler, not prepping the surface properly or using parts that flex (eg fibreglass).

The panel I have applied is galvanised steel (so wont rust) is rivetted with 5mm, long reach rivets and secured with liquid weld in about 20 places. Its actually more solid than the surrounding boot sides (which you can push in and out). Any exposed metal will be treated with primer and resprayed. The inside area that was stripped will be treated prior to back filling with expanding foam, which will keep all moisture out (as well as protecting the metal).

The top panel will be skimmed with a thin layer of filler the same as most welded boot panels - its literally no more than 2-3mm from being flush.

Based on my experience of "tinkering" with my nova over the years I'm very confident in my work (I wouldnt waste my time doing it if I didnt think it wouldnt work).

Finally - the boot lid is a spare so if it does got t1ts up - who cares - the originals still on the car!

lol

once again this is amazing work.

are you going to have a tinker with some custom lights for the back too or you gonna keep them standard (nova wise)

great stuff, got me thinking (bodywork expensive in jamaica) might need to do some of this when my nova starts aching again lol

awesome work, i had the same idea with the boot release, but for a mk3 golf. Anyway, i was told the mk5 one didnt swing, but i know the ibiza/leon one does.

Stuff like this makes me want to keep mine.

Ash

Saturday 09/09/2006

Today is the day I get my car back from the garage after getting some welding done.

Woke up at 8.30 to a thick blanket of fog - really thick. Not ideal for towing a Nova with no engine, no lights and SORN'd off the road back to my house (some 8 miles) on a busy A road.

On the way to the garage - and to worry me even further - there was a big off road police car parked in a layby watching traffic! Terriffic! If I saunter past in a 1/2 modded Nova that isnt even allowed on the road it's sod's law they'll catch me.

Luckily - theres a small drive by burger van in the same layby, so we pulled in and had a bacon sarnie and a cuppa coffee. Half way through contemplating going up to the police car and chapping his window to get some advice on the legalities of towing a SORN'd car he drives off!

COOL!

Got to the garage and they have done a really good job.
Hooked her up and drove backwithout incident.

Off to a wedding in the next hour or so in Edinburgh so dont have time to post pics but I will stick some up tomorrow.

And to cap off a start of a great day the suns burnt off the rest of the fog and its really sunny outside!

Think I'll be having several pints of Magners at the FREE BAR later

he he

:cool::thumb:lol

re the lights - yes I'll be making custom rear lights using Landrover discovers domed lenses (e marked - similar to old style mini ones) with chromes rims/cylinders to house them and then cover the unit in clear polycarbonate (or similar). I need to make a new mounting housing though because the nova one is all preformed and really awkward to mod.

This however is a later mod - towards the end of the project...