Welding the rest of the seams?
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Welding the rest of the seams?
Yeah, stitching the legs underneath, never did it during the last build.Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
Very little wrong, just arches and a few other sections to tidy and as above.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Progress on the shell - All the split spot weld seam are almost sorted, few more to do and it'll be perfect:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psceglkvgr.jpg
Arches going in, William has put in the spot welds for originality, and the arch is now single skin to remove the "Achilles heal" issue of moisture between the panels.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...pstyvlwsoi.jpg
It's going next weekend to have the engine bay and floor media blasted to allow for a better finish of under seal and paint. Then it's just the task of saving the cash for the respray. I have the vast majority of parts required to rebuild it once sorted.
Keith
Good work Keith
Nice to see a panel being welded in the right way �� keep up the good work
What have i missed? Why are you restoring it again?
Despite my best efforts, some of the spot welded seams started to split. On inspection this seams to have been caused by the Acid dip and e-coat not doing it's job. Since finding all this i've found lots of examples of his happening on other cars so i'm not alone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy
So my friend William is drilling out spot welds, removing sections, and repairing. Thankfully it's fairly minimal but one of the main bits was the rear arches, which began warping after about 3 years. Thankfully when sections have been cut out, inside all the box sections look completely brand new, so this latest work should hopefully be the last time it needs done.
Needless to say I'd steer clear from acid dipping, It has it's positives (inside box sections), but clearly sometimes it just can't clean and re-seal some tight spot welded dual skins.
Keith
Thats not good at all.Kind of defeats the object of having it done i suppose.
Spot welds on seam for originality is amazing!
Well impressed with how fast you work on it Keith. Done a full resto on a Nova back in 2001/2002 and the sheer amount of work did my head in. Top job sir! :thumb:
Really? I thought the paint finish fantastic.Quote:
It's going next weekend to have the engine bay and floor media blasted to allow for a better finish of under for the paint
Love all the work you've done.
What other areas have you found problems?
Interested to know so I can check mine
Essentially just check anywhere thats spot welded dual skin. Loads of mine is perfect, some bits had split/widened and when cut out had rust in between the panels. All small areas but time consuming to put right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edd
It is, but with the work done it's patchy again so needed sorting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Bay and underside now blasted: (with glass)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psqzm1bnki.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...pscnsdt45h.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psoquwurz3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...pso6smeii9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psjjdvtoqm.jpg
Keith
An even better build than the first time mate! All being well it will last a bit longer this time!
Nick.
Looking great Keith, looks like it's so much easier cleaning underneath when it's on its side.
always look forward to your updates.
Nick
That looks the best way for stripping!
Next up is Dinitrol 447 underseal, then back home so I can save hard for paint.
I thought it was one of the cleanest around before the rebuild, will be something very special 2nd time round it looks like. Great work. I would really love to get mine to that level eventually.
Keith, I found the below comment on landrovernet.com, surely you have read yourself up on this subject? If not, then I hope this is useful info. Not clued up on Dinitrol products myself so I could be misinformed here.Quote:
Originally Posted by krobinson
Internal, you can use DINRC800,this will convert the rust to a hard, stable organic compound.
External I would apply a very thin coat of ML3125 cavity wax to the chassis as it contains rust inhibitors and will act as undercoat for the underbody wax 4941(black) or 4942(brown)
For wheel arches and high abrasion areas then use 447 in place of 4941,4942 but still apply the ML3125 first.
Cheers Niek :)
Thats all the repairs complete, all underside seams sealed, and Dinitrol stone chip applied.
Collected the car from William this morning. Got it home and fitted the boot-lid & doors. Time to get the head down now and save for the paint job!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps1tehu2za.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psrn0yi2rn.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psi6gdfjpn.jpg
Keith
Also this weekend, I had a friend help strip the timing belt off so we could upgrade the oil pump using SBD parts. Then refit. And this afternoon I refitted the sump.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psktrjhrdo.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/keithrobinson/media/nova%20turbo%20rebuild%202015/1ADB37A7-BEF2-47E6-879B-78E6CC5B33B2_zps4k6ym2ag.jpg.html]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps4k6ym2ag.jpg[/URL]
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/keithrobinson/media/nova%20turbo%20rebuild%202015/A50602E9-7C29-4B34-9FE8-D8BBD84C9870_zpsr8hr5faq.jpg.html]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psr8hr5faq.jpg[/URL]
:)
Looks really good Keith. I think I'll go with the sandblasted on that she'll I got
Media blasted, glass/soda will be best.
Looking great. Make sure you dont put your hands on the bare bits, as the salt in your sweat can be a killer.
Hahaha are you fukkin serious?!!! Whatever next?!! "Dont buy ready salted crisps as they may leak out?!"
Andy just cos your paint doesn't stay on beyond corner 1 doesn't mean others shouldn't want perfection lol
If youre sweating to the point youre corroding steel then the corrosion would be the least of ones worries lol
anyway rubbings racing.plus i apply it very thin to keep weight down lol
Lol
You'd be amazed how quickly clean hands leave rusty fingerprints on unprotected steel!
I work with the stuff every day cant say iv ever noticed.Mind i must have good skin ph levels lol
It's very true. If you propley lean to paint with water base paints they tell you to never touch the paint before as the salt can get in and start to rust and it can damage the base coat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy
And as keith is going all out again to get the perfect job. I just wanted to help him get the best he can.
Plus i've seen other builds where people have found rust starting to appear on cage tubing after a few days where they've touched it.
Well not a huge amount has happened since I got the shell home. I'm saving hard to get enough to paint it properly, and I've decided to go a different route with the interior. I've sold the alcantara setup and I'm looking at cages. Waiting on a few prices then I'll order once I'm happy.
Lack of photo for all the work...
Haven't updated this in months.
Car is now painted, finish is flawless and I'm super happy with it.
Rollcage ordered from Fabricage, double rear cross and harness bar - should arrive before x-mas.
Roof lining back in, windows in, fuel tank in, loom etc. Got lots left to keep me busy over Christmas.
Good man, you don't hang about. Looking forward to updates!
sent from my Nokia 6310i using the keypad
From what i've seen, i'm wet already.
Looking forward to pictures :thumb: