Thank you [emoji4]
Hopefully more progress soon!
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Thank you [emoji4]
Hopefully more progress soon!
So been plodding along with this, mostly focusing on steering column and drivers footwell...
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And this weekend I made the drivers foot rest...
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And now I need some help and inspiration with the remaining dimple dies...
I want to add plenty for some reduced weight but also cos dimple dies! Lol So it I see it as an opportunity to do something interesting. I love symmetry and geometric patterns, and so version 1 was this... (circles being the holes and there will be 5-10mm of the trumpeting around that)
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And then version 2, a bit more traditional and asymmetric...
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Side by side...
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Thoughts people?
Here?s an extended version 2. I think this is the one...
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Who?d of thought this would of been so stressful! God knows what?s gonna happen to me when I get a bead roller! [emoji1787]
Version one, look like a crop circle.
[emoji23] it doesQuote:
Originally Posted by totalnova
Have you watched any Ryan Tuerck videos on YouTube?Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
If you can get past his annoying and childish American arrogance, then they've done some great builds, and he has a truly brilliant fabricator called Dom. He's certainly the brains behind the operation!
He did some great stuff with an aluminium footrest in one of their drift cars. Good for inspiration.
EDIT - took me a while to find it, but here it is;
(1) Best Floor Plate Ever Machined? East Coast Car EP.9 - YouTube
The latest build they're doing, a modern Supra with a Judd V10 motor is quite something.
I found the Supra build over Xmas, very cool indeed, ?Dom spec? is certainly something! I had not watched any previous vids though so that was helpful, thank you! I feel like when it comes to fab work and building cars in general, if you have a lathe and a mill the possibilities of what you can achieve go to a whole new level!Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
Starting drilling, punching and dimpling last night...
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I?ve learned a few things. The initial pilot hole for the hole punch is not as critical as I thought in terms of alignment. Because the hole punch clamps/stamps through rather than turning, you can use that to line up square. The dimple die obviously needs a snug fit to the hole but is really effortless. I was expecting lots of distortion on the steel but none.
I also learned I had to scale down my size plans. The die?s themselves have a good 5-10mm of flat after the taper section. So with that first row, that flat section was encroaching on the tapered part of the hole next to it. I just got away with it!
Hopefully get the rest done later, but it?s actually quite time consuming if you want them nicely lined up.
The equipment they have access to certainly helps, and then there's the space they have. Seems like a USA thing, every house and workshop is vast.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
The other fabrication/tuning series I enjoy from the USA is Rob Dahm (a rotary engine expert). He's come a long way since his early days, to the point where he's now machining his own engines.
If you're a middle class American you will have more disposable income compared to a middle class Brit, thus more tools and toys! And yeah, much bigger houses, garages and workshops.Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
Rob Dahm is an enjoyable watch too, I love his honesty with his videos.
Fitzee's Fabrications is also worth a look for good metal work skills, The Fab Forums too.
Thanks, I've watched one episode of Fab Forums, but Fitzee's Fabrications is new to me. I shall give that a go.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Oh yes, forgot to mention Papadakis Racing who also do some fancy stuff.
Will certainly give that a watch! I find I watch more YouTube than TV these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
Very much the same for me!Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Great progress Simps!
Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
Thank you [emoji120]Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova_Tek
Just finished up all the dimpling, really pleased with how it?s come out in the end and learned a lot! Need to weld in the support & mounts and its done [emoji4]
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These also arrived today, very nicely made I must say...
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I?ve been reading that a lot of the stiffer engine mounts out there can end up raising the engine 10-15mm, which I obviously do not want. These mounts come well recommended and only increase height minimally but there?s scope to strip them down and machine a little off if required, hopefully not!
Thought I better get these in and trial fitted to make sure none of the chassis is affected.
Colin, how do you mount your nova fibreglass doors? Is there a hinge kit you use or just fab something? I was thinking a simple c shaped bracket bolted to the door that goes between the body parts might work??Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
My carbon fibre doors have just got the hinges out of a set of standard steel doors, cut out and bolted into them.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
I have also got some fabricated hinges that Ben Speechley at Hangar 30 does, which are slightly lighter and a bit more elegant. I haven't fitted those yet.
The standard hinges work just fine. Happy to supply photos if you need them.
If you wouldn?t mind sharing a photo of both that would be great. I might message Ben when time comes then for a hinge set, don?t really want to cut up my steel ones as they are pretty decent.Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
No problem at all, I'll get some photos.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
My standard hinges date back to the days when I had dozens of rusty Nova doors, so it was no problem to chop them up! I keep forgetting that these cars have real value now.............
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That's all 4 of the Hangar 30 hinges taped together in the last photo, just in case that's not obvious!
Thanks Colin. Think I?ll tap Ben up when the time comes and see if he can?t just fit them too.Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
Everything in this post is just p0rn!Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
Next big purchase might have to be the fuel tank as I need to figure out the mounting structure for it. Really want one these from Nuke...
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The Nuke CFC and the Radium Engineering FCST are quite expensive for what you get( iirc. 1000 pound for a basic unit with fuel cell but without fuellpumps/ levelsender/ fillerneck-flappervalve etc.).
I have made one myself and the total cost for the parts is around 100pound for the topplate, fullpump mounts, swirlpot, 6pin fuel resistent bulkhead connector, Viton flapper valve and the fillerneck
The (used) ATL fuel cell was around 180 pounds.
It saves quite some money and it is an straightforward job..
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Good job on building one yourself, looks good!Quote:
Originally Posted by prs
They?re not a cheap unit, no. The CFC on it?s own without pumps, sensor etc is c?550-600. The one I pictured with the tank comes in at around ?650, so a cheap tank to be fair, although not FIA approved, which doesn?t bother me anyway.
I could even get one made for less that would be more than suitable for the job but there?s just something about the set up and tank I really like, I can?t explain it.
This build is about function but not entirely over form. It?s very much about the journey for me (bloody should be, it?s taken long enough! Lol)
I like your holey bits.
Off topic but also on, I had my first vindaloo last night, so not all my holey bits are likeable today!Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain
Looks very neat that Nuke fuel cell.
I was quite taken with the Radium one that they installed in the Formula Supra, then reconsidered when I looked at the prices!
Great work PRS on your home made version.
So to update this.
With lockdown ending works been pretty busy with long days, so not much time in the garage. We then got the news our landlord wants to try selling the house during this current crazy market climate! So knowing we are on the move I needed to crack on and get what work I have done on the car sealed.
So body came back off
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I then first wanted to focus on tidying up the inside of the shell/body so when it goes back on it is ready to be welded/fixed to the frame permanently. But also I wanted any bare metal cleaned up and painted. So that happened
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The paint of choice was a coating called Steel-It. It is used a lot in offroad circles for chassis parts, arms etc instead of powdercoat and basically dries hard for a good protective seal. But its party piece is it actually contains pigments of stainless steel and is weld thru, perfect for what I need! I sprayed a test piece then tried welding to it and it does work. Quick clean up and you can then just respray the welded bit and it blends well.
Next up is getting the frame stripped down and back on the rotisserie. Ive got some smaller fab jobs I want to do and bits to finish weld on the underside, then I will coat the whole thing in more Steel-It.
If there is time before any move, I also need to redo the rear turret tops. The angle of the strut is all wrong and the mounting point on the hub is under stress. They need to be more upright. Hopefully I will get time to do them but I need the frame rolling and everything bolted back on for the move as I am expecting to be going to a smaller space :(
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Looking excellent as always and some good progress there.
Have you any idea what the weight is of the original bits of the Nova shell? Roof, with the A/B/C pillars etc?
Very curious if you do have any idea!
What’s the plan for attaching the shell to the spaceframe chassis?
Go on the Simps.
Crap about the move.
No chance to buy the house??
Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
Thanks Colin. Frustrating that every time I get momentum something always stops me!
As for weight, no idea. Will see if I can rig up some scales and find out!
Attachment wise, it was held on by a pair of these tabs on each pillar (you can see the b pillar ones in previous post pics)
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But just those 6 wont be enough to support it with glass, doors, trunk etc. I could do gusset plates to the cage but seeing as I dont need structural rigidity in the body I want to try and make it bolt on/off if possible. So maybe double up on tabs? Tricky bit is obviously making sure I get a good seal on the bulkheads if making it removable, I have some thoughts on that.
Thanks. Now you point me to them I can see the tabs on the body. It's a neat solution.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Where did you get the tabs from out of interest? Or did you have them made?
If you can weight the body without too much hassle I would certainly be interested. I'm also intrigued by your bulkhead sealing ideas.
As you've probably guessed, making my Nova body removable is one of the future plans. Although I might split mine down the middle so the rear part is removable for engine access.
It?s an awesome house but out of our price range realistically. It is also very unique and with that comes expensive upkeep/repairs, which the missus is not keen on!Quote:
Originally Posted by House
We will be buying somewhere. It?s a few years earlier than we would of liked but at least now my partner passed her 5yr point since moving here and can now apply for permanent residency and thus get a mortgage.
This is the current place, going to definitely miss it. Been a real pleasure having the opportunity to live here.
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Brackets are an ebay item, he does them with rivnuts too - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brackets-...-127635-2958-0Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
My plan is to make the sealing points be overlapping panels bolted together with some kind of seal between, foam maybe?? Trick is orientating them correctly so it can all still be easily removed!
That is a stunning looking house.
It is a former lodge house, supposedly designed by the renowned architect Anthony Salvin who was quite the man in the mid 19th century for his gothic/tudor style!Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally