Yes yes! all coming together a good'un now mate:D
You've both made a good job of the modified steering arms, look awesome and probably stronger now than standard!!
Cracking work as always, looking forward to seeing it at the weekend
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Yes yes! all coming together a good'un now mate:D
You've both made a good job of the modified steering arms, look awesome and probably stronger now than standard!!
Cracking work as always, looking forward to seeing it at the weekend
Did Craig Green not have problems on his MOT due to having cut and welded the steering arms? Thought it was seriously frowned upon?
it is mot failer if you can prove the arms have been welded or iwelds are clearly visible! with the welds ground back and painted you cant tell and be 100% sure and thus cannot make the assumtion so a pass but ..(thats looking at the pics! in real life you might be able to easily tell when your underneath it that they are welded so a failure) imho and i am an mot tester! but its is down to the discretion of the tester, luck off the draw really
I wasn't aware of this, hopefully Olly will be lucky and have a friendly tester!Quote:
Originally Posted by corsakid
yeah it is, even if you use oxy to heat track rod ends up to aid removal that can be seen as an mot failure, imho they look stronger than the originals especially with the sleeve and plug welded, but if you tidy then up really well and the welds arent visible then imho should be a pass, i am sure will f bought craig greens power steering rack as a spare the welding on the arms was/is about as suttle as a punch in the face you couldnt miss them, no attempt at hiding them,
I can't see the pictures at work so wasn't sure how visible they are, can imagine they are pretty tidy though :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by corsakid
Not true, mine have never been near Will F, they are still on my car & now with an MOT pass. :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by corsakid
Friendly tester is the way forward. ;)
ok sorry my mistake its definatly someones old powersteering rack off the site he isnt using it its just sat on his garage floor, easy to make them a pass just grind and smooth the welds, ollys are really really neat and tidy so wont be problem imho
LOL @ how low that is lol :cool:
Liking the trackrod work, nice solution.
so you needed more thread further down the track rod, could you not just have tapped the thread further down the original arm with a die? or have i got it the wrong way round?
i take it your lower arms have run out of thread to gain some more negative camber? easy fix for that would be to remake them from a new set, as there is room to cut less off the original arm before welding the rose joint mount in place to gain some length
Yep you're correct Lee, and the right way around, I ran out of inward thread, but on Nova steering arms the shape of the arm changes shape immediately after the threads stop, as two edges go flat where you'd put molegrips when turning the steering arms to do the tracking... so the thread couldn't be cut further in.
So we lobbed off the steering arms just after (just inward) of there the molegrip flats are, and then done the above...
My TCA RJ's are actually would all the way in the TCA, or near as damn it, so I have a bit of flexibility there to gain the neg-camber back, but the top of the wheel is sitting far too out at the moment, so I'm going to alter it tonght and just keep playing until I can drive it down to the garages where I can get it up on the ramp, and weld the washers on the car, when its setup how I want it :thumb:
yeah i know about the flats, but looking at the photos it seemed the new bit added had no thread where they would be anyways and they are pretty far down the arm, but whatever, its done now:)
you probably need to be carefull with your driveshaft plunge now if your wheels are that far out though, you might end up pulling shafts out the box on lock
Ahhh Lee beat me to it there! Only just occurred to me that you'll be risking the shafts like that. I guess though there should be a good bit of thread on the end of the shafts - might be able to wind them out slightly to gain a bit extra clearance...
Suppose you could get the front in the air and lock steering in each direction - get an idea of how much pull there is on boots - if the rubber is pulling flat then you may have a problem :)
Looking good though!
The wheels aren't any further out than any other Nova :confused:... as the RJ's on my TCAs are wound all the way in the TCA itself. So they're at a standard length that a standard TCA is :)
The new threaded bar has 20mm more thread than a standard steering arm has.
Just been out, raised it by 15mm, and reduced the +1 camber back to -1.5camber which is what I want to run at, and everything still clears :thumb:
However I think its due to crappy Nova tolerences, but the NSF tyre is closer to the wing than the OSF tyre... very odd!
probably is nova tolerences because my old nova was the opposite of what yours is.. my offside used to catch the arch on my old nova but the nearside was miles off and both the nearside and the offside were set to the exact same height on the coiloversQuote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Seems like reinventing the wheel a bit to me...
I just did this:-
http://www.digitalempathy.co.uk/2008/iTRe.JPG
Update your WIP flush, want to see you gear leaver setup.
why do they hit the wings then?, if you ovaled the holes on the struts, then wound the tcas out, then surely they are further out, also the drive shaft angle being increased will mean the shfats themselves will be pulled further out of the cv, not a big deal, and easy to fix with a washer behind the hub side of the cv, but definitely worth checking outQuote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Because its so low, and the positive camber that I had from elongation lol... the tyre wall is completely under the arch, but now been raised slightly, as i couldn't run it as low as pictured the other night.
Simon - thats been discussed, cba repeating myself anymore
whoa whoa whoa, I've not touched the TCAs at all, never. The RJ's are wound all the way in, thus the shortest possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by lee303
I've repeated that three times now Lee lol Not once have I even implied that I've done the contrary lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
unless you were on a wind up? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by lee303
I wanna see how the car got on from the wip on roybaser...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
My drivers side is at the bottom of the thread and passenger is 20mm higher. The drivers side still sits a little higher! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
alright, keep your shirt on, i re read the bit after you said you've raised it, driveshaft angle comment still stands, i'm sure you'll work it out though
Don't think i'm getting funny Lee, I'm not lol - I genuinely found it humourous as I thought you were having me on lol
Totally agree on the driveshaft plunge angle, and yes, the passenger short shaft is at a considerable angle, but I suppose I'll just have to suck it and see... obviously the drivers is the same, but due to being twice the length it doesn't look as bad.
Simps - Novas have crap tolerence - fact lol
*shrugs*
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
me to, one of the main reason's i went on there, to read his project :mad:
Snap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ste L
Lee, driveshaft plunge when using proper shafts and 16v cv's wouldn't actually be a issue on a nova as they are pushed in a fair way using that setup.
I believe Olly is still on GTE shafts which do use most of the travel in the cv, its a case of suck it and see as your right with what you say but he "might" get away with it.
Looking good though Olz, any issues with the MOT give me a bell as I know a few people that could help you there.
Is that fLuShSiMoN then ? great wip he had, f**king annoying style of typing though lol
Cheers Jon, however by the time my next MOT comes around I'd probably have got bored and broken it for parts lol lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
i can see the vultures circling already lol
Don't say things like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Even if they are a joke.
lol
Ollys going to be a busy man next year, aren't you Olly ;)
how much for the tb's :p
lol
I've already got first dibs :p lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Ste L
:( lol
I'll stick an MOT on it Ol, don't even worry about stupid things like whether it is legal or not.
;)
Right this tolerence thing has started to bug me, the fact that I can forsee one side catching and the other being plenty far enough away.
Please excuse the crude drawing, but can anyone point out any accurate points of measurements where I can measure from side to side to see why my tyre-to-wing meeasurements aren't the same.
I can think of obvious points to measure, but they're not 100% accurate as they need to be identical on both sides. They obviously need to start from a solid chassis point as opposed to any moving part, suspension etc...
It doesn't look much on this crabby drawing, but there is a good 15mm, which is far too much for my liking...
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc1169.jpg
i was thinking this morning about wheel angles while in my little snug bug bed cacoon.
with mine lowered to the floor the other nite the wheels didn't appear to have any camber which considering the top mounts are tipping inwards & back and the coilover is at the bottom of the thread you assume there would be.
Could it be the driveshafts pulling at the wheel? Obviuosly mine aren't fitted.