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It's right at the point where I should with twelve degrees of castor; you can't even see the thread on the arms anymore.
Difference is profound; I bet you've never clipped to inside of a round about before.
Guy at the last M.O.T was asking what's 'wrong' with the wheels when turning; maybe I should show him a picture of a single seater with some lock on :colonchin:
You got any pics of the added castor? Tempt me lolQuote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
Yes i want more pics!
Mate have you ever thought about colour coding the bumpers, would look absolutely amazing.
Can someone photo shop it?
Please, was done years ago. Wasn't a fan..
Stripped a hub off yesterday. Took it to the guy i normally use, he doesn't have the tools. As he doesn't have reamers.
Talked to a different guy and his way is much better and more like how we've talked about above.
What he thinks, is make a tapered sleeve that will fit in to the hub, once the old tapered hole is drilled out. The sleeve can we pressed/glued it, but will have a top on it so will sit flush and be held in by the joint.
This way if i have a prob, i can remove the sleeve and swap it back to the top..
A pic to help.
Yellow is standard taper. Blue is where it will be drilled out too. Red is the new tapered sleeve.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps12486b5b.jpg
Would this not be better so the insett tightens up along with the track rod? Ether that or I sketched trees
http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f6h2krp.jpg
And the pic is on it's side
Or have I missed it and that's what you said but just drawn it straight ?
Ben's diagram is correct; drill it out straight then whack in the tapered insert.
http://s13.postimg.org/46kepvzcn/fwhel.jpg