My Nova 16v Project

Be careful Olly that design of top mount has the circlip on the wrong side for running that way up. Bit shocked at the butchery! You can get alloy eccentrics for novas that run the way up you want without the need to cut anything and will give you all the adjustment you'll ever need.

Dialing those in that much will give about 5º- by the looks of it and a handful in a straight line ;o

If you speak to Leda they should be able to hook you up with the nuts I described dawg :)

filing Knuckles is the last thing you want to do (even if it has it in the Haynes manual :o ) you get miles more adjustment doing it with the nuts plus the peace of mind reliability wise too.

lol @ the top mount conversation again, I've only ever ran them this way up with no problems whatsoever, along with plenty of other track orientated cars that I know of...
12 trackdays later, 3 Sprints, TOTB, Quarter miling and plenty of very hard road miles later they're fine.

Hybrid - they are 'face up' ones, as you describe. :confused:

Simon, I have a camber & castor gauge, and running them like that is -3°, and I've previously ever run -2°. So its nothing like -5°. :)

you could get the struts machined to be like this

http://shutter15.pictures.aol.com/da...VT4Hkn0300.jpg

So just by enlarging the top hole you mean?

Machining the back of the knuckles on the hubs is so they don't foul the shock body itself, so not sure why you said "its the last thing you wanna do"...

well, if your happy with the whole of your suspension pushing on a circlip, then cool, but they are not designed to be run that way, and i bet if you ask whoever made them they would not be telling you it'll be fine
and no, i dont agree that just because you've had no problems so far it will be fine
i know you will see this as a dig, but its not, just some friendly advice, and as you are modding the turret at the mo anyways, why not fit them as they are intended?
but as ever, its not my car, so not my decision :beer:

I say it's the last thing you want to do because you introduce an element open to play should the bolts not be squeezing the strut bottom to it enough.

If you don't machine them out exactly the same (combined with less reference to strut angle inherent of doing this) then you might find getting each side exactly the same quite difficult.

Didn't read it as a dig Lee :thumb: as I know you're only offering friendly advice/ constructve critism, tis whats forums are for! :) totally understand the advice, and I will have a look to see how much more of the turret needs to be removed for me to flip them :thumb:

Simon - not sure if you understand what I meant I was doing, regarding the machining, I meant I am elongating the bottom hole inwards, and the top hole outwards... once I have the clearence from the leg itself, I will then weld a washer around the hole so they cannot move anymore.

I would do the measurements to the side of the bracket on all 8 holes (4 holes per leg, 2 holes per side), to ensure they're the same. ie: top hole 4mm from edge of bracket, bottom hole, 16mm inwards from top of bracket etc...

Once they're set, and I've welded a washer to prevent them from moving (as this is purely for clearence problems) then I still have my RJ TCA and my Ecc TM to get the desired camber I want to be running :thumb:

The hub knuckles themselves, again, thats only to enable me to push the lower hub knuckle further towards the shock... the top one is staying untouched as I'm pulling that one away :)

Much clearer Olly are you making a trip to the machine shop tomorrow?

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Originally Posted by trackdaynova

Hybrid - they are 'face up' ones, as you describe. :confused:

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Edit: Yeh you have got the "top up" ones but their still upside down so your not using them to their advantage

Who's got the GTI-6? Very smart person :D I spy with my little eye :D

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Originally Posted by Martin

didnt Krobinson do a simlar thing with his holes on his old NDZ front chocks?


lookin good

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Mine came with an adjustable top hole as standard, At the nurburgring this allowed the knuckle to move. So when I got home I had a metal plate welded over the hole and it drilled out to the correct position.

If you enlarge the hole olly, get it to your desired position and then weld a washer on to stop it moving (like you said you would) :thumb:

Just wondering here, why you want sooo much camber?

I don't, I want -1.5degrees, which is less than I have been running, currently -2degrees.

The moving of the topmount inwards was to create clearence from the sidewall of the slick, and the spring.

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Originally Posted by Dar

Who's got the GTI-6? Very smart person :D I spy with my little eye :D

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My Jeep now hates you Dar lol

Ah, I see! I miss-read I thought you wanted -5degs! lol

Wouldn't coilovers like these solve the clearance issue?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/SP_A1155.jpg

By the looks from that photo, that'd do exactly what I don't want... ie: making the top of the wheel lean towards the leg, rather than away from, if you get me?

The holes in those aren't parallel with the leg itself (like std?), so it should push the leg in and retain the angle of the wheel...?

Peester had some similar ones from Compbrake IIRC.

They are Peesters,Lol

Iain has just kindly linked me to Peesters thread, which I had obviously replied to, and then forgotten about...

(http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99617)

But I thought it'd do this, with the holes being not above one another

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2...a1155aaze7.jpg

Iains just drew a lovely picture for me,

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5367/suspip9.jpg

I suppose my head was just twisting, but I get it now, rather the top hole being closer than standard, the bottom hole is further away - and most people have a set length TCA, it'll work by the bottom ball joint on the hub only holding the lower hole the same distance apart and thus making the leg sit inverted... is that right?

EDIT/ADDED: lol
But then the top hole on the left leg, is elongated to give the ability to add more camber, so why when the right leg gives the same end result does it not? :tard: lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/SP_A1163.jpg

My head hurts.....

Thank god someone elses brain cells are aching, I'm starting to think its me just making myself look like (more of) a tit by not understand this fecking thing.

*goes off to reply to a pm that he read earlier, and forgot to reply to* lol

So, do the slicks still rub the spring even with the short springs on, or have you not tried yet????

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Originally Posted by trackdaynova

Thank god someone elses brain cells are aching, I'm starting to think its me just making myself look like (more of) a tit by not understand this fecking thing.

*goes off to reply to a pm that he read earlier, and forgot to reply to* lol

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lol lol lol

Thought you didn't love me any more!!

And no its not just you that has a bald patch through head scratching! :tard:

Adam - yes the side wall of the slicks still rub with the 7" springs on, because I've lowered the spring platforms about 65mm down the threads on the coilover body, PLUS lost an inch on the spring lol (25.4mm) :eek:

Pm replied add me on msn buddy!

You might have to upset Benn and higher it up? lol

I hope thats a joke, or you reallllly don't know what the point of these past 25 pages of my WIP are all about lol

Right, i'm gonna try and give a teeny tiny bit of proper input here... although I imagine its exactly what you're already doing anyway lmao...

It you elongate the bottom of the two holes on the coilover body 'inwards' you should be able to get a bit of a pivot on the hub sufficient enough to adjust the camber, weld in a washer and have happy thrashing times again...

Rather than doing both holes that is... as would fancy going any closer to the edge on the coilover body tbh...

Can do a picture if you don't get what I mean :)

Oh and beer = yes. But don't call me strange LOL

Olly,

as to the subject of camber adjustment: many moons ago I had a pair of camber bolts fitted to the Red Shed. These things (bit like a miniature version of a single lobe camshaft shaped bolt) allow you to alter camber within a certain angle. (see links)

As to what Keith Robinson stated about elongated shock holes: when not done up properly, your setup can wander about a bit. Same will happen with camber bolts, but to a much lesser extent. I've had this happen on the Red Shed, and it proved a bit odd. Retightened the camber bolts, had everything re-aligned, sorted.

http://www.courtenaysport.co.uk/inde...&productId=194
http://www.performancealloys.com/low...ts_springs.asp

Hope this helps - well unless you have found a better solution. :)

Cheers,
Niek

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Originally Posted by trackdaynova

I hope thats a joke, or you reallllly don't know what the point of these past 25 pages of my WIP are all about lol

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:p :p

i think what 'ace media' suggests is the best option and i assume this is what olly is planning anyway!

adam why would he higher/rasie the nova when for the last 10/20 pages he has been trying to do the complete opposite and is so close to achieving his desired height,

ive got a little annoyed at some of the comments on this thread regarded the top mounts not sure why lol surely if olly runs his top mounts upside down then its up to him! surely people can see from what hes done with his nova that he fully understands how things work and is fully aware his top mounts arent of the usual orientation! and the risks involved in running them as they are, the top mounts still function, surely that circlip if it were going to 'snap' bend etc
would have done so by now, just my opinion:thumb:

i think this is pretty imformative thread as i can see hes trying/doing something people say cant be done!
which is run his car very low (lower c.o.g) and keeping the geometry pretty much as he had it before it was lowered 3" and still get it to handle and be able to run slicks and big sidewalled tyres (reason imho why so much modifying/ re engineering is involved clearance)

nearly there olly 90 % of the work is done

CorsaKid-Yes, my reply was a joke ;) lol lol

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Originally Posted by corsakid

i think what 'ace media' suggests is the best option and i assume this is what olly is planning anyway!

adam why would he higher/rasie the nova when for the last 10/20 pages he has been trying to do the complete opposite and is so close to achieving his desired height,

ive got a little annoyed at some of the comments on this thread regarded the top mounts not sure why lol surely if olly runs his top mounts upside down then its up to him! surely people can see from what hes done with his nova that he fully understands how things work and is fully aware his top mounts arent of the usual orientation! and the risks involved in running them as they are, the top mounts still function, surely that circlip if it were going to 'snap' bend etc
would have done so by now, just my opinion:thumb:

i think this is pretty imformative thread as i can see hes trying/doing something people say cant be done!
which is run his car very low (lower c.o.g) and keeping the geometry pretty much as he had it before it was lowered 3" and still get it to handle and be able to run slicks and big sidewalled tyres (reason imho why so much modifying/ re engineering is involved clearance)

nearly there olly 90 % of the work is done

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Nail head job done and well put!

i never once suggested it was a joke, i saw/read into it as a genuine suggestion and a rubbish one at that imho, thats why i said what i did glad it was a joke lol

count just my opinion :thumb:

It might be just your opinion but IMO you are spot on were as others are further from the mark....

Glad you got the pad dude, didnt send any paper as you said you had some, you've been buzy again, but have done perfect what i was talking about to move the coilover away from the tyre. Good work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corsakid

ive got a little annoyed at some of the comments on this thread regarded the top mounts not sure why lol surely if olly runs his top mounts upside down then its up to him! surely people can see from what hes done with his nova that he fully understands how things work and is fully aware his top mounts arent of the usual orientation! and the risks involved in running them as they are, the top mounts still function, surely that circlip if it were going to 'snap' bend etc
would have done so by now, just my opinion:thumb:

i

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i guess thats aimed at me, well, just as you have had your opinion, can i not have mine?:wtf:
the top mounts do indeed function, but i'd be impressed if you can prove to me they are designed to run like that, or that a circlip is the best thing to put the load of your entire front strut on, as that is what you are doing running them that way, and as for the 'it would have gone by now', that is a poor excuse tbh, and i would counter that olly has just been lucky so far and none of the above would not help if it does decide to let go at any time
my point is, why take the risk when there is no need to?
anyways, olly has made his opinion clear, and i did say that its up to him as its his car, and if he's happy with them like that then thats cool
maybe, just maybe, you should stop thinking i'm attacking olly and springing to his defence needlessly, its a discussion on a forum, thats all...:thumb:

anyways, sorry to put that sort of thing in your thread olly, good luck with your mods, although for all the work involved i think i would have just lowered the engine in the car and gained a lower c.o.g that way:thumb:

If I can borrow James' uber-awesome Snap-On file so I can do a dead neat job, then I might open out that little bit more to take the knuckle pointing upwards.

As we've established, I no longer use my topmounts for castor adjustment now, so there isn't a need to get full rotation on them anymore.

Actually, turning them the other way up, will lower the car by the height of the knuckle as it'd now be protruding into the bay, rather than below the turret.

Ever since Span' mentioned lowering the engine, it kinda got me thinking about it, but then I think i'd struggle with the manifold on the floor lol

Course you can borrow it! So when are we lowering the engine then?