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Track rod end sits at a nasty bump steer inducing angle! This can be fixed with the rose-jointed TRE now available through trackdaynova...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-10-088.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...16-10-0810.jpg
And finally, everytime I look in the bay it suprises how much of a gap there seems to be without any inlet on! lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...16-10-0812.jpg
Looking good mate :thumb: I really hope you don't experience half the problems I have lol saying that, all self inflicted I may add lol
Looking good, cant wait to see this done. and nice to see this pic. never seen one at this angle before :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
I was right up on my tippy toes! lol :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGS
How bloody tall are you? i would need a ladder to do that and still need to be on tip toes lolQuote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
I think I'll be ok spring platform wise. Its tight but once a disc is on the hub it will give me enough room and worse case I'll run a spacer.
Gearbox clearance is an easy fix as is track rods (thanks to your good self!). I would still like to get it lower tho! lol I take it that if I'm at the bottom of my adjuster platform, by going for shorter springs it will bring it down more? What poundage would you suggest for traack use? (bearing in mind its f28)
As far as arch clearance goes the fronts can be ground back further taking out the straight edge and going up to the next curve. The rears will have plenty of room when the arches are rolled and the coilovers turreted. Had 205/50s in the back there tonight and it only just squeaked on the drivers rear on the spring.
I'm 5 10ish. I just stretched my arms out and clicked. Must be cos the car is so slammed it looks high! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by BIGS
Yea it could be that, but looks cool either way. so whats next to do the gearbox clearance when you get the rod ends from Oli?Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGS
I'm gonna weld a 50mm box section on the underside of the crossmember to lower the front tie bar brackets.
I'm gonna get some of Oli's TREs but I'm in no hurry to really spend any money yet so they'll have to wait depending on cash flow.
I'll probably concentrating on the fabrication side more now. Still got loads more spot welds to drill out. The rears need turreting. Cut out made in the sill for the exhaust. The cage fitted properly. Seats mounts to be made. The list goes on! lol Basically all the stuff I can do befre having to spend any real money.
hmm i think you should do the cut out on the sill first. then i can copy the way you do it lol.
The plan is to just find a piece of hollow tubing around 1/2" larger bore than the exhaust and at least a good 3/4mm thick and chop it in half. Gring out the sill and weld in place the half pipe.
Well thats the plan anyway! lol
why do you make it sound so easy! but what backbox are you having? as ive got the cavi btcc backbox and the box is quite big so going to find it hard to mount it right. will you have the same problem?
thanks for the pic mate, so basically its cable ties through the fan holes and then through the rad fins and round the rad elements and back through, sorry for the confusion, can hardly read the writing on pic lol:thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGS
I've got a parts bin exhast system to go on! lol a long straight with 2 powerflow boxes that came off a xe tigra and a rage 4" universal backbox. just need a 90 deg bend of which my mate has a pipe bender :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by belly257
It doesn't come back through. Think of it as a flexible plastic nut and bolt. You push the nuts on and it clips up like a cable tie then you chop off the excess.
Nice :D
thats what i thought! lol
its a budget trackcar and more than up to the job. Th price was right too. Free :D
ah i see, are these cheap/easy to get hold of? otherwise i may just use cable tieslolQuote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Yup - you're totally correct... if you're at the bottom of your threads, say, on an 8" spring, directly changing to a 7" will lower it by a full inch respectively, so on and so forth :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Poundage - it's such a personal taste, I had 313lbs on the front of mine and yet it just didn't feel enough... so I've gone to 350lbs now on a 7incher...
I would be inclined to advise a 325lb, to take into account your F28 badboy, and the fact I presume you'd drive it on the roads too?
Yeah, I think I paid something like £11 delivered for a new kit from rally design.Quote:
Originally Posted by belly257
Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
They're 300lbs at the mo and standard avo length of 8" at a guess. Same ones I had on my red turbo and that felt lovely and flat on track, then again it was never pushed "that" hard.
What have you got in your spares box at the mo? lol
ok mate thanks for the help will have a look for some now, o and smart work on the nova looking good:thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
no probs, anytime and cheers.
XE's actually look really small without the inlet. I saw Andy B's without the top hat or manifolds & almost didnt believe it was a big block.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Good progress matey. :thumb:
^ makes my 1.0 3cyclinder corsa engine look mahoosive lol
its not the size thats important, its what you do with it ;)
It's not how big it is, but how hard you press it in. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Not a huge amount done this weekend due to hangovers but I lowered the rear a little further and am gonna get some shorter, higher poundage springs for my fronts. I now have just over 13cm sill clearance at the back and I want 13cm or below at the front but its currently 15cm.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/02-11-08.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../02-11-081.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../02-11-082.jpg
Nice, shes got a great stance on it.
I then continued with the boring job of removing the old seat mounts. I'm bored of using a drill so the grinder just cam out! lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../02-11-083.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
I want to get it down as much as possible within reason. There's loads of thread left on the rears its just the front holding me back at the moment. I tempted to even try a 5" spring.
Nice, my kinda style..lol and a 5"? christ thats tiny.
Well Olly is running a 6" but I'd like to go a little lower but still retain decent shock travel.
Si, I run a 4 inch spring at the back :thumb: lol
Beautiful stance, love it! :)
I think 5" might be the way to go then. I'm at the bottom of the thread at the mo and with the 195/50 Yoko's they're sitting like this:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-10-081.jpg
I'm gonna to roll (read hammer and piece of wood) out the down part of the lip to give me the clearance needed but to give another 20-30mm drop and move the spring platform higher to give some shock movement. so 3" is about 75mm so should be about right.
Just gotta decide on poundage.
Damn it, i'm gonna have to get shorter springs too...lol
Why do you run 50s? Thats huge! I'm going to 40s..
Si, I would recommend getting as hard as you dare with regards to poundage, I'm currently on F350, R450... which leaves me with no roll even at 100mph+ cornering. which, in turn, helps clearence.
I can't recommend taking a grinder to the lips of the arches tho, rather than hammering them up on themselves, to get the ultimate clearence :thumb:
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Originally Posted by Benn
trackday tyres like the 888's or A048r's come in that size unfortunately.
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Originally Posted by trackdaynova
I've got 300s at the mo, I'm sure they are. I think I will go up to 350s tho as running it that low and no real need for road comfort it seems the sensible thing to do.
I've already grinded back the lip and I could then grind up the straight bit up to the next angle piece but I thought just pulling it out towards the top might be better.
Know what I mean?