Forgot to add, I also have two brand new genuine doors to go along with my new and genuine wings - all courtesy of duick/Steve. Top bloke! :thumb:
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Forgot to add, I also have two brand new genuine doors to go along with my new and genuine wings - all courtesy of duick/Steve. Top bloke! :thumb:
They don't look too bad from the pics and let's be honest if you can get them pretty decent, with help from a professional firm perhaps?, they may well be good enough to fit back in the car. I would much rather see original stuff in a car like yours, with a few small issues, than brand new - not quite the same fabric etc type of things. If you know what I mean. Yet at the end of the day,if you can get hold of some better ones and can afford them, go for it.
So the less worse quarter is more worse than we hoped! :(
http://thumbsnap.com/i/nwXo4MLs.jpg
Stick a load of tube in there
But being ever positive, I spoke to a body shop today to see if I can get it in late July. That should give enough time to repair that quarter, tidy up with a light skim of filler, paint the underside and get the front panel swapped.
Also thinking ahead to the next stage after paint and what to use for cavity wax:
http://www.rust.co.uk/mil-spec-trans...kit-a-/p487954
http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-...ments/dynax-uc
http://www.rejel.com/dinitrol-clear-...g-aerosol-kit/
Read a few suggestions on here but nothing conclusive.
What of, expanding foam? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
So as a bit of a change from the body repairs, went to pick up my rebuilt engine today. A big shout out for Vinny and Mansfield Engine Centre as he has delivered perfectly (and some) on what I wanted.
Basically the original Sport engine had failed during a sprint at MIRA so I wasn't optimistic that it could be saved. It needed a replacement crank as it looked like throwing a bearing cap may have been the root cause but I am really pleased that the original block has been saved and reused (keeping the original engine number was important to me) and there is also a genuine 108 cam in there as well. A few other bits have been done such as lightening, balancing and flowing/skimming plus a few new bits added. I also wanted a fairly factory finish and I think it looks perfect for a 31 year old engine! :-)
http://thumbsnap.com/i/8h4SyRDJ.jpg
I have brand new bits to go on such as a starter, alternator, fuel pump, dizzy and I have a better cambelt cover as well.
Very nice mate, I love the attention to detail and that you are building a great car.
Stunning :)
Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
Looking goodQuote:
Originally Posted by slimtater
the only I have noticed is modern type head bolts have been used instead of the original type, if u wanted attention to detail :)
Cheers - there are a few places where newer (and better?) bits will be used as I am not building this as a factory standard concourse rebuild. :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by conza123
So a bit more good progress over the weekend and the nastiness that is in posts #157 and #163 is starting to disappear. With the repair to the section that is under the outer quarter but above the sill, this has been merged with the sill nicely to add some decent strength, especially as it is hidden. Again, some really nice blending - especially in the inner arch. The old outer and new section has now been cut and again we are keeping the good original metal to the maximum:
http://thumbsnap.com/i/W6QXlcv9.jpg
http://thumbsnap.com/i/qLBRSZi9.jpg
http://thumbsnap.com/i/61nmqdOr.jpg
Also ordered a dolly to use after we have painted the underside and taken it off the jig. Whilst the jig has been great, it goes through the lower front panel (which is being replaced) and it is quite big in my little garage. The jig and dolly will eventually be sold on so at least it isn't lost money.
Looking good.
Update without pics I am afraid. The nearside rear quarter is proving to be a bit of a pig so its taken a while to get the inner repaired and the outer section to sit. My main man ran out of time over the weekend but hopefully on the next visit it can be tacked and then finished. That just leaves the front lower panel in terms of welding but that is probably going to be done when off the jig and on the dolly. Oh yes, my dolly arrived and I have built it ready to drop the shell on to after the welding done and underside painted - we were planning to do that on the weekend of 9th/10th July but may push it now due to the quarter issues.
If anyone wants a dolly in about 3-4 months, I will have one for sale. Cost me £240 delivered but would be open to sensible offers if collected.
Cracking thread! I love a good story behind a much loved retro car.
Impressive work considering you're doing the restoration in your garage :)
Can't wait to see the finished result!
OK so not many updates recently but a huge milestone today. The worst of the repair, fabrication and welding has been completed.
http://thumbsnap.com/i/CZqEAjNX.jpg
http://thumbsnap.com/i/i8a2Khzt.jpg
So if I get the decals on next week I should make Billing lol
Not really. Plan is for the underside to be epoxy painted followed by Raptor the weekend after and off the jig so the front lower panel can be swapped. Hoping to have it in for paint Aug / Sept so it will be painted during our hot summer!
So after a bit of an interruption (albeit a pleasant one) due to Billing, some more progress. The welding is now finished apart from swapping the front lower panel when off the jig. The plan is to paint the underside this weekend so I have been gathering things needed.
Also managed to track a couple of new items - the correct passenger side mirror i.e. the large one and also a brand new coolant pipe which is possibly the last in Europe:
http://thumbsnap.com/i/59t0Qbs7.jpg
Looks like it has been on a shelf since 1985!!
Also got one of these thanks to Lee V as mine was missing:
http://thumbsnap.com/i/zBpYy3vS.jpg
It does feel like I am pretty much there with what I need. Sure I will get to building it up and finding the odd little bit missing or things that I would like better ones of (door cards spring to mind) but I just want to get on and build it and see. Its not being built as a concourse car and will be driven so I don't want to lose sight of that! :-)
Last of the seam sealing before the underside gets painted this weekend...
http://thumbsnap.com/i/f3YXQk9z.jpg
http://thumbsnap.com/i/m6oN3XBL.jpg
And some of the donor metal we have welded in! ;)
http://thumbsnap.com/i/fcEdrjq0.jpg
(that's the genius that is Will in the background)
Always like seeing progress on this, at the rate your going you'll be ready for the show season next year easy.
Cheers for that - I was originally aiming for this August but that was way too ambitious seeing how much work was required. The plan is to have it in paint in September and then a nicely paced build back up over winter. Fortunately my garage is heated and has a dehumidifier and once the shell is off the jig and painted, there will be a fair bit more space as the panels (doors, boot etc) take up SO much room!Quote:
Originally Posted by totalnova
So the weekend was hectic but the end result was still achieved. Can't thank "Will the Welder" enough as I now have a nicely painted underside of the Sport. I used Facebook Live to provide some realtime spraying updates and took plenty of pictures but here is a taster as I cannot work out how to upload the Facebook Live stuff:
http://thumbsnap.com/i/m29OkKmS.jpg
Learnt a few things over the weekend as well which may help people doing similar:
Firstly, prep and masking take 90% of the time and painting about 10% - plan that in!
The Rustbuster Epoxy 121 gives a bit of a shock when you open it - one half is greenish and the other is like white Philadelphia cream cheese and fairly solid (despite being warm) and you think a) it will never go white and b) how will it mix? We used a bit of thinners to help mixing and then a bit more prior to painting - probably a bit more than the suggested 15% but it helped. Also, if you have a removable filter in your gravity gun paint holder, take it out. Once sorted, it goes on really well.
It says you don't need to do anything prior to painting over it unless it has fully cured but we did 320 grit then scotch to get rid of all the sheen - well worth it as the Raptor stuck far better.
I got a pre-tinted kit of Raptor complete with a Schutz gun (Sealey) and that gave two problems. Firstly, the tint means there isn't enough space in the bottle to add the 250ml of hardener so you end up having to decant to mix. Secondly, the gun was a rubbish fit and we ended up having to tape it in place - not sure whether it was the bottle, gun or length of the pick-up pipe that caused this. ALSO SHAKE WELL BEFORE ADDING THE HARDENER, NOT JUST AFTERWARDS AS IT MIXES THE TEXTURE AND COLOUR FAR BETTER!
The issue with the Schutz gun actually did us a favour. We did all the thick places using this before then adding a bit of thinners and trying through the gravity gun. This gave a brilliant finish that reminded me of a white AND BETTER version of the factory finish where there are thick and thin sections. The advantage of this though is that it is almost seamless and the Raptor has created what feels almost like a plasticised yet tough continual coating.
Had to make tough decisions as well. I had managed to get some new floor drain plugs but only 10 genuine ones and in the later style. I had the originals and they were in poor shape and took a lot of cleaning up. Ideally I wanted to keep them all black rather than painted in and therefore difficult to move. I managed to get 5 for the wheel-well cleaned up nicely and they will go in later. With the rest, we put them in after the Raptor and went over them again very lightly. This was enough to give them a consistent colour yet they can still be removed and are still genuine looking:
http://thumbsnap.com/i/RqpGNB3j.jpg
Looking great keep the photos coming
A few more including the inside of the wings that we did with Raptor - all helps keep the rust away!
http://thumbsnap.com/i/WqQQtOCS.jpg
http://thumbsnap.com/i/TthT6tvq.jpg
http://thumbsnap.com/i/ObZT7rbh.jpg
Also got my Kunifer/Cunifer/Cupro-nickel (whatever its called) brake lines and unions today so we can make up new sets. Just be a bit easier doing this whilst on the jig.
Looks so so clean, you could eat your dinner off it.
This is a piece of art.
:thumb: Absolutely brilliant work. A great example how to do it properly- would like to foot the bill though as the paint job so far must have cost a fair few nicker...
This is why I love the Nova community. A genuine offer to pay for the paintjob on someone else's build, purely out of respect. Very thoughtful.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonesfach
Yeh that's what I read as well - very kind...... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain
....but don't worry too much about the cost. If it helps future projects, I can give a bit of a break down of key bits:
The shell was originally soda blasted and primed in Epoxy 421 paint which cost around £1000
The Epoxy 121 white mastic paint was about £60 from recollection (2.25ltr chassis pack). The tins didn't look much but we managed to do the whole underside with two good coats through the gravity gun with a bit of extra thinners.
The Raptor kit (including 4 litres of tinted Raptor, gun and mask) was about £90 and that was enough for a thick (schutz gun) coat in the vulnerable areas then two coats over with the gravity gun. We still have 1 litre/bottle left over and we will use that when the front lower panel is swapped as there was no point doing that bit.
All the sundry bits such as Scotch, 320, masking tape/paper, plastic sheet where at cost but probably would total about £50. The large rolls of masking plastic are well worth the £15-20 as they can effectively line a DIY booth.
The labour? Not sure yet as Will has being doing all the work in his own time ( hopefully at mates rate ;) ) so once he has finished all his bits, including prep for main paint, we will sort. I am pretty sure this will keep total costs for the shell work under about £5k - the quote for the equivalent work at Retropower was around £14k from memory but that included everything from strip down to returning a perfect painted shell. If you can do stuff yourself and use brilliant and skilled mates, it helps A LOT!
Slip of the tongue hey! lol
Nice for someone to be open and transparent about the costs - v helpful.
Wish the rustbuster fairies would visit me �� I'd pay someone to do the same to my bare sport shell, Iv seemed to hit ground hog day/year! ��
Looking good Tim, mine has ground to a halt at the moment :roll:.
Cheers Tim - having a short break from mine so at least the underside will be hardened off. Next jobs are:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Harpley
* Make up front to rear brake lines whilst on the jig
* Light skim of filler on the rear quarter joins
* Lower from the jig on to the dolly
* Replace lower front panel and cross-member as it's easier to do off the jig
* Off to the body shop for prep and paint - hopefully in September
Then a nicely paced rebuild over autumn and winter finished off by the decal application safe in the knowledge that the paint has gone hard!
Getting there Tim ;)
Coming soon, brake line updates and some light filler work...
Ok not loads of pictures or words but essentially we have started making the brake lines and made some progress this weekend. Whilst the car was still on the jig, it has just made it a lot easier to at least get the two long runs done. Got one more rear beam line and the two fronts plus the master cylinder end but very happy with the finish (kunifer) and thanks to Rich for his great work:
http://thumbsnap.com/i/U2AWUZ5E.jpg
http://thumbsnap.com/i/3lLyeqXR.jpg
http://thumbsnap.com/i/UUo1RhZC.jpg
I can't call Will "Will the Welder" any more as he is proving to be a real all-rounder. After the great work painting the underside, he is now starting to work on the repaired rear quarters and they are really start to take shape now - literally. I love that Nova rear arch shape!
http://thumbsnap.com/i/l50b1FWV.jpg
http://thumbsnap.com/i/lzsjWrUf.jpg
So the aim is to try and get the brake lines finished in the next week or so (whilst Will is taking a well earned holiday) and then finish the filler work before dropping off the jig and on to the dolly. Its made things so much easier having it up on the jig - not only for rotating to get underneath but also for getting the sills and quarters at working level rather than lots of crouching. It will stay on it until the last minute!
Paint at the end of September?!?! :thumb:
Added a few videos from the Epoxy Mastic and Raptor weekend:
https://youtu.be/cOcW8jRKS5U
https://youtu.be/eVLH5vyi2hQ
https://youtu.be/5qZfjM2D-P4
https://youtu.be/mA1cjxYlVFY
That looks very nicely done. Great work!
Picture free update for now. The two main kunifer brake lines are finished. The filler work on the offside quarter and both sills is done and primed. Looks amazing and is really the lightest skim! Should be coming off the jig and on to the dolly next weekend along with finishing the nearside quarter. That leaves the front lower panel and then OFF TO PAINT - YIPPPPPEEEEE!