Looks the danglies.
Printable View
Looks the danglies.
OK, so the problems are what I already knew I'd come across.
Having it that low, on my current 8" springs leaves the tyre wall resting against the spring, and rotating the spring every turn of the wheel.
So I could possibly run 6" springs, which will drop the car exactly 2" which is 50.8mm lower, with the adjusters in the same location as they are at the moment.
However, in those pics, which is about right, height wise at the front, that is 68mm lower than previously, so 6" springs wouldn't be low enough. Going down to 5" spring would make the drop circa 75mm lower than it currently is, which is too low. lol
The ID of my springs currently is 63mm, now I could run some universal 2.25" ID springs, which are 58.5mm ID, which saves me 5.5mm ID total circumference, which is only 2.75mm on each edge, which is negliable.
So I could increase my spacers, whic could give me another 2mm... but again not a great deal.
So Me & Kristan have been chatting, and I might alter my suspension leg to enable the lower part of my shock to sit more inwardly towards the car (Kristan to supply excellent picture lol) this will solve all problems, and I could make it so it sits miles inwards away from the tyre so I'd never have problems again.
So for now, until I've decided what I'm going to do, I've raised it back up again, to do some workings out - and then I'll start the development of that.
Kris - away you go with our suggestion picture lol
Car is looking gooood! Proper track day whore!! Wings looked odd at first, but are growing on me! If they help with wheel clearance then its got to be a good thing!
God I hope I don't get all this grief when I go to put my coilovers on!
yeah me and olly have been discussing a few things and the way i see it is he could do a few things to help solve his clearnce issues at the lowest height oe any height were the adjuster is inline or below the inside tyre level
these are just quick rough sketches to try and illustrate my point not sure if it they would work cant see why not as olly runs solid top mounts with the rose joint centre so would allow shocker to move inwardly whilst pivoting
my first suggestion would be to make the brackets that come of the shock that bolt to the hub carrier longer thus moving the shock from \ plane to a more vertical plane and with the smaller id springs almost 3mm clearance just form the springs i think it could result in quite a bit of added clearence between tyre side wall and the shock/spring, and i know the spring seat adjuster is still the original diameter but that would be below the level of the rim lip so below top of wheel level :confused:
anyway heres how i see if could be done quite easily
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ockdiagram.jpg
and a very exagerated pic just to illustrate my idea
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a/untitled.jpg
another issue we could see possibly would be that moving the shock back would hit the mounting bracket where the metal brake pipe meets the goodridge sticks out but that could easily be moved and relocated further along out of the way and a new metal brake pipe made up
another way that could help with the clearance and not to sure on the consequences onthe handling weather it would be detremental to the handling and geometry setup but as olly has fully ajustable everything on the front i cant see it casuing to many serious issues, would be to move the shocker mount point turret inwards towards engine bay bit like cp has done iirc, i amsure theres an easy way to solve the clearnce issues escribed by olly
heres my view and opinons but think it could work and be a relatively easy fix,
The good thing about what we've got planned with the lower shock mounts, is that the leg doesn't sit vertical anyway, as we all know, it sits top inward, and bottom outward, so extending the "arms" so to speak, would help alot.
And I've checked clearences, and there is no way you could possibly get the shock absorber mounted in the lower "to scale" picture that Kris has drawn, which is good news.
cant see a reason why it shouldnt work mate see a pretty easy and straight forward fix to me, little gains form little things like 3mm on the springs and a few mill on the lower shock absorber mounting arms and possibly space will add up to a lot of clearence and hopefully solve your problems with tyre spring contact
That does look the fuc.king bollocks Olz!!
As the tyre touches the spring could you not run the 1.9mm spring?
I'm deffo pround, thats a nice ride height.... Ooo i think i've cum.Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Car looks funking ace! Colour match is perfect! Funking good work dude.
Looks awsome down that low!
Wings look good as well :)
That looks evil as feck!!!!!
You think you have come but i know i have all over the lap top bugger! lol lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Benn
The general idea its self i like....but in reference to the top right pic especially the 'weld' part (and please correct me if i'm wrong) you will need to be very careful about how you go about the welding the extension on given the extream heat transfer caused when good penetration is achieved (you can't piegon sh+t it on if its essentially holding the hub/wheel to the car) and the chance of blowing holes in the shock body that welding would cause (i don't think Olly wants to be buying new shocks for experimental purposes! lol)Quote:
Originally Posted by corsakid
This is only my opinion and i'm not an expert in exactly what is in that part of the shock but i bet it doesn't take kindly to that sort of heat and neither would the seals ect so not 100% sure :confused: :confused:
hahahaha thats so sexy.
Adding on to the welding bit, lengthening that bottom part will also mean that more stress is put onto the weld/bottom of the strut (think of it like a lever point....)Quote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
Not sure how much your planning on changing it though, few mm should be 'reet.
Id be tempted to leave the standard bracket on the shock body, and then weld an extension piece on the end, drill two new holes for the bolts. That way you have plenty of thick metal to play with, and could even cut off and start again if something went wrong.
Like so:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...w/shock111.jpg
If you will be adding enough metal to drill new holes in that is.
James - we (Me & Kris) totally agree with you, and also mentioned about the problems you could incur when welding the shock body itself, and as you say - I wouldn't like to do this.
I was thinking like Adams diagram, but as he's stated... if we're only looking for mm, then you'd struggle, as the hole is 10mm in diameter I think... so you'd need the "tab" to be at least... 14mm in width (at a minimum)
hubba hubba me like's.
I wish you would stop raising the bar as i will never reach it now gggggrrrrr.
that looks sweet :thumb:
with the options on the shock/spring probs would it be posible to elongate the holes on the hub or the shock and run a spacer to give it more support?
might be a rubbish plan its been a long day:tard:
welcome to man sized lowness mr olly
elongating the shocker holes could be a viable option, the top one as been slightly done already to get my camber.
the easiest option would be to not run as much camber, which'll bring the top of the wheel / tyre out... but i want to retain the camber.
burgo - lol @ man sized lowness :cool:
In that case do a CP and rework the strut top to allow the shocker to take up the camber you lose from the hub carrier :)Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Remember the welded point will be brittle due to the heat so a welded tab with holes through may not be ideal....esp given the 10mm hole 14mm tab and the thickness of the metal to begin with 5mm ish perhaps less if i remember right.Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Would an extension of the hub be possible :confused:....Along the same train of thought but there is more material there to weld to and no real danger of w@nking anything important or expensive but (and there is always a but~) there is the leaver point issue again.
Isn't it about time some one made custom hubs (runs off to get the tape measure and set square lol lol lol)
This is definately the way to do it instead of mincing around with the fecking shockers or hub. Doesnt have to be as complex either.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...turrets011.jpg
Lee I understand what you're saying, but my car is regulary used as you know... and I think that that is a major operation which means time out for my car which I don't intend on doing.
I'll keep taking in options, and then work a way around.
Don't get me wrong, I agree its a great way of doing it, the best in fact, but I just need to think viability, and when I can do these things.
I have Cadwell booked two weeks on Sunday, Donington booked four weeks on Sunday, which is the 9th November, then probably won't have another until January as December is already busy for me, but you know me lol
I'll probably book a December one next week lol
Thats what i just thought, move the hole over towards the bay, thus moving the shock over to wards the bay..Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee
Are you on eccentric top mounts olly?
If not combine that with eccentric camber nuts & bolts on the strut bottom to fine tune the height / camber / spring platforms. Give Leda a call if you can get the struts off to be machined to accept them…
Or just invest in some replacements ;o
The best idea Benn in IMO as well but i also think Olly is talking sense as he wants to use it and it would take time to sort out the strut tops
Sorry, I thought Lee was meaning to re-fabricate the whole strut top again, ala CP/MC/Jim...
I obviously wouldn't mind just elongating/ reworking the top strut hole, and re-drill the two holes either side...
Simon - yeah I'm using eccentric top mounts :thumb:
Ahhh I know why CPMCJIM has refabricated their hole strut top now, I think its because obviously if you just elongate the holes inwards, you will lose space to mount the topmount...
Does that make sense? as the edge of the topmount will be hitting the inside of the turret?
:tard: :tard: :tard: yes dear it does and that is why it needs re fabing lollollolQuote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
mate, what can i say!! strength to strength on this one, your learning so much from this motor and the results are speaking for themselves!
No, ally top mounts the center bit where the nut is is offset, so set that so the smaller side in towards the bay and you canthen move it over..Quote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
Olz will only need what 5mm?
James - not necessarily, because now the topmounts aren't used to add / reduce camber and castor, due to my other bits and bobs... I can run the off centre closest to the bolt holes on the inside edge
So don't laff at mr brown boy ;) lol
Paul - why thank you sir :)
Benn - posted at the same time! jynx... ermmm... 5mm would be plenty, as I'd never run any tyres bigger than those Michelins lol
People people you have got the wrong end of the stick here i wasn't saying Olly needed to re fab the top mounts just stating that olly was stating the obvious in post 1950 thats all...
lol i'm great at stating the obvious :p
If we are being pedantic it should have read
Happy lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
I think the idea of elongating the strut top and locating the top mount in the position previously stated will give to the needed clearance and consist of the least amount fafery (time off road or track in your case ;))
You can but try and see!
so what ya suggesting...
two angle grinder slots in towards the bay, followed by jigsawage?
and also, straight in at a 90degree right angle? or in and back for increased castor ala CPMCJIM?
For simplicity, symetricalness, I'd say a right angle, straight in. lol
When you coming up and giving me a hand James? lol
No, do like i said, use the beltsander you did your arches with, and use that to elongating the hole.. That way you dont need to be cutting anything.