Indeed.
Even with slight clearence, the engine is obviously going to be moving about on the mounts when braking etc...
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Indeed.
Even with slight clearence, the engine is obviously going to be moving about on the mounts when braking etc...
Good luck with that one...
Just the bigger stuff to sort now but your well on your way :)
Anyway, whilst I can't do anything about the exhaust, I removed the manifold again, and put all the tie bar setup back on, wheel back on and back on the floor...
Rolled it just out the garage to remove the seats, harnesses and subframes
What we started with
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0561.jpg
Decided to use some seam sealer to go over some edges that were left, and to make it look prettier
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0562.jpg
Primer first coat just so the paint grips
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0563.jpg
Done diddly
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0564.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0565.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0566.jpg
Now it sits in the garage drying... tomorrow I'll be putting the seats & harnesses back in for good (yeah right lol), putting fuel lines back correctly, and routing the battery live cable, and spray the rollcage feet black again.
In the mean time, I'll get onto Ashley tomorrow morning and see what they say :)
Thanks for reading all
Would those lowered rose jointed tie bar mounts that Chris is selling help?
i agree with the above..
it may lower it, so there's enough clearance?
They won't make any difference, the bracing on them is larger than the standard units as shown in the picture I posted of Ads
You could always modify them. Isn't all the load on the two big bolts that hold it on. That little bolt that holds the braket in place is not exactly beefy.
My homebrew lowered mounts don't have alot to stength in that area and have never been a problem.
That "little" bolt is possibly the most important part of the mount, its also M10, same as the other 2 longer bolts.
Leave it loose or remove it and you'll snap your crossmember off, I found out the hard way after someone forgot to tighten the ones on my white nova.
I think the issue really is how much clearance you need, I do agree you could trim the mount but when the engine moves it will touch :(
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonlem
how come corsa's dont have them, if they are very important, they only have the vertical bolt's :confused:
The corsa has 3 bolts, thus spreading the load, the bracket works in a totally different way to how the nova one does.
The problem is when the bolts are removed or left lose on the nova it allows the bracket to twist on the crossmember as the wheel pulls back on the tie bar, it will crush the crossmember a bit thus makign the 2 vertical bolts lose, for this reason I run 2 **** off plates on the top side of the crossmember where the bolts drop through, corsas run 3 captive nuts on the top side iirc
It took me 10 laps to tear the whole section of my crossmember off with one left lose.
The corsa is a far better engineered car from the factory as I'm sure you have noticed when working on one, a nova can easily be as good but a few simple things that are overlooked can wreck a good shell.