Hit the manifold with a big hammer.
Alternatively, just give the car to my mrs, and she'l bend your tiebar for you, like she did on my SR lol
Printable View
Hit the manifold with a big hammer.
Alternatively, just give the car to my mrs, and she'l bend your tiebar for you, like she did on my SR lol
Right then, time for an update - was out there early doors seeing if this manifold it going to fit. good news. it does. but... I'll explain with pics.... how very unlike me!? lol
Had to remove the tie bar, to see just how much it wasn't going to fit by - as it wouldn't get past the tie bar bracket before it fell onto the studs
First up, upper left hand shoulder was too beefy and fouled on thermostat housing preventing it to fit flush against the head
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0547.jpg
Grinder - DONE
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0548.jpg
Once it was on, I wanted to see if the tie bar would even start to go on... suprised and good news that it did, so i loosely put the front bolt in, so i was sure it was in the correct place, left to right, and vertically
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0549.jpg
then dropped the bolts thru, and loosely put the nuts on, again, just to make sure everything was as it should be
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0550.jpg
along with bottom ball joint bolt, just put it through the hole
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0551.jpg
I was suprised that all the bolts went in reletavily easily, next up to prove it wasn't sagging at the head, causing the easyness, i put on a manifold bolt at the top, to hold it tight onto the head... mmmm big bores
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0556.jpg
right, now the slight problem, and need your advice, here are the pics of it fitted, and the next 4 pics of what I have in mind, and where it touches
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0552.jpg
misses the actual tiebar by about half inch
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0553.jpg
you can see where it touches here
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0554.jpg
and the shape of things here
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0555.jpg
Here is my ideas, but would like opinions
The red it where it touches, but I think I can grind off the lip where the dotted green line is, think that'll solve that problem
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0557.jpg
Actual tiebar misses by about half inch, so I dont think thats an issue
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0558.jpg
The only way I can see it fitting is to cut the lip off the tie bar bracket, and grinding down the side of the washer, which I don't really want to do
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0559.jpg
However, you can see how primary no1, takes a different and wider route than 2/3/4 (and seems longer/ lower?!), so the other option is to take it back to John, and get him to make primary no1 closer to the others, so its more over to the passenger side
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0560.jpg
Would like peoples opinions if possible...
Couple questions:
> if the manifold clears the tie bar by half inch, is this enough? I'm thinking so, I'm on solid mounts so the engine hardly moves anyway, as when the engine is under load it tilts back (away) if anything, so it won't ever tip forward anymore...
> if they do modify it so its closer to 2/3/4, do you think that'll be enough to get the clearance I need, or am driving down a dead end?
> any ideas/ opinions/ suggestions are more than welcome - thanks
Think you should take it back to get rebent, kinda looks like its in the wrong place anyway with the other 3 next to each other and all in line.
If not what about a tight bit of heat wrap to pull no1 into the other 3 pipes !?!
Looking at your pics again that prob would sort the washer issue but you still would need to cut the bracket.
Yeah I agree actually, and that would also pull it further away from the tie bar even moreso...
Even cutting the bracket isn't something I'm keen on, but I guess as long as I keep the bend in it, the strength will remain?
I mean, just shave some off, rather than remove the lip completely...
Any other suggestions you can think of?
Its close that!
Not sure what your planning but when JB did mine it "almost" went but when its wrapped in heat wrap there was no chance.
Are you going to wrap it?
If so take it back to Ashley's and get it rebent/remade, im sure they will be able to do that.
As for cutting the tie bar, probably not a good idea incase it weakens it. If you have the funds get something like mine made ;)
that pic of the scissors made me chuckle
Would running lowered tiebar mounts on the front move it away from the manifold?? Or is there a reason your not already running these?
The protec tie bar mounts I think would make the problem worse, they are heavily braced, typically around the area where your having problems.
The setup we used won't help either as the main brackets are very similar to the pro tec ones.
The engine will move a lot more than you think, especially at that point too so grinding the bracket and washer down is really out of the question, is the manifold now tight against the head ?
These are Ads :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...c/DSC02544.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...c/DSC02543.jpg
I can't see them fitting at all :(
Take it back to John and get him to modify it, you need atleast 1/2 inch of clearance imo.