Oh i never knew it was a 180HP.
Thats awesome, what a car!
Printable View
Oh i never knew it was a 180HP.
Thats awesome, what a car!
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEWI007
How mental is that, its 24bhp behind a 'let' and its essentially a 1.2 carb block lol
Shows what can happen when the money is used/placed by someone who actually knows what theyre doing:thumb:
About 4 miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by peester
I'm not, they are carbon fibre.....Quote:
Originally Posted by paul james
Spent a very enjoyable day at the Autosport show yesterday, where I picked up these nice lightweight discs/bells which I might be able to use on the front;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/003-71.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/004-60.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/005-50.jpg
They are 240mm x 6mm and weigh in at 1.7kg each.
I was also looking into custom flywheels and clutches, and would be interested to hear from anyone who has a bespoke flywheel and 7.25" or 5.5" clutch on their smallblock Nova.
Mine has a standard (albeit lightened) flywheel and Sachs fast road/rally clutch on it at the moment, and there is definite weight to be shed from the rotational mass;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/001-33.jpg
I may also get the crank pulley re-machined in alloy to save weight;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/002-68.jpg
I will post up a thread in 'MECHANICAL' about this subject.
i think lee303 has
I have got a ttv flywheel and 7 1/4 clutch Colin i run a sintered plate and and old sachs cover that my mate had ,what did you need to know ?
I know there's limited clearance inside the bellhousing, so presumably it's just a single plate? What release bearing do you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by toymex
Any photos of the flywheel/clutch please?
TTV were talking about a 3kg flywheel, is that what you have? How do you find it to drive with?
I am not sure on the weight of the flywheel i thought it was 4.5kg but not sure, the release bearing is an interesting question i had been running a standard bearing as i have only recently been informed i need a round release bearing on this type of clutch so i have got to look into a round faced bearing that will fit ,it worked fine with the standard bearing but there was little adjustment available ,the clutch is very fierce i almost everytime stall it the first time i get in it but soon get used to it other than that it is great ,my 16v revs like a banshee but it has forged pistons and steel rods etc and everything has been very carefully balanced,i dont think you get a twin plate to fit as as you say space is tight.HTHQuote:
Originally Posted by novarally
Jezz
I meant to say i have just removed the gearbox for a check over so i will get some pics of flywheel and clutch for you
Thanks Jezz, that would be very useful.Quote:
Originally Posted by toymex
It certainly does, thanks. If you happen to be removing the flywheel (ypu're probably not), could you stick it on the weighing scales for me?Quote:
Originally Posted by toymex
I just need to find the right 7.25" clutch (and release bearing) to suit mine now. I've been advised to avoid sintered plates for my car, and go for a rally spec.
TTV certainly seem to offer a good price.
hi colin
cars looking great! i run a TTV flywheel and a 7.25 and single plate, the flywheel was 2.7KG
in a small block box room is very limited for even the single plate, but it will handle 190 lb/ft all day with a red spring, i use a cerrametalic plate and its surprisingly user friendly, especially with a bit more torque like you have, all from helix via martin bowyer, i had to skim the inside of the gearbox to gain some clearance though ...
as for release bearings, i run a vectra hydraulic release, with a flat face, the round face is recommended by everyone but its very expensive and involves a bit of fab to make it fit the box, i have had no problems with the flat type though, but i do only use it for pulling away as i have a dog box now, but even with the synchro box it didn’t cause me any issues, clutch spring fingers look fine, no excessive wear or anything after 10k on it so far
Lee can you tell me where you got your box and roughly what they cost ,i am looking to upgrade sometime in the future Thanks
Sorry for the thread hi jack Colin
pm en route mate
Thanks Lee, that's excellent information. I picked up the Helix catalogue at the Autosport show yesterday, and they mentioned those aluminium clutch covers like you've used.Quote:
Originally Posted by lee303
Do you happen to know the weight of the clutch plate and cover?
Does the Vectra hydraulic set-up bolt straight into F10/13/15?
I've just weighed my flywheel - 4.5kg (lighter than I was expecting)
and the clutch is 3.8kg total (it's a paddle plate)
no don’t know the exact weight sadly, i imagine helix could tell you though, but having had it in my hands i would guess it was around 1.5 kg, and as some can attest, my engine revs like a bike even as a relatively long stroke 1800
the slave cylinder bolts straight in but the small block input shaft is thinner so the seal needs modding, no big deal, you can use the standard seal fitted into the hydraulic slave body, or you could do the daewoo style clutch release with a slave outside the box acting on the clutch arm if you don’t fancy that, but i would think with a 7.25 a hydraulic would be a must over a cable
are you running a 5 speed casing still? would have thought you could use just 4 gears on most hill climbs and iirc the 4 speed casing is a good bit smaller and lighter, but then it may also be smaller in the bell housing area like the f13/15 is to the big block box and i may also be talking rubbish about not needing 5th!
Definitely I need 5 gears. I need about 110mph, and I can only hit that with a 5th gear (on Quaife ratios anyway).Quote:
Originally Posted by lee303
I have a hydraulic clutch on mine, but it actuates as a slave cylinder pushing directly onto the clutch release lever arm.
Lee are you still running a small block box on yours? I was under the impression you switched to an F20 after finding the bearings on a small block box spit themselves out at 7500+ RPM, or did I make that up/dream it? lol
ah right ok, wonder if you could get a 4 speed to suit ratio wise, could be a good weight saving, but i digress, the clutch, yes, thats like the daewoo setup, often think of switching to that as its a pain having to remove the box if anything goes wrong with the hydraulic side, which is more common than the mechanical going wrong for sure!Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
no you didn’t dream it, i run a hewland F18 cased 6 speed dog now, i would have stayed small block but with a dog kit to get over the revs issue, with the synchros rather than the bearings being the things that couldn’t keep up, but when i built the 1800 it also started to twist the input shaft splines round on the f13 synchro, was lucky to make it home from germany!, so a stronger option was needed, the big block input shaft being a fair bit beefier and the hewland having the added bonus of a stronger tooth pattern than the small blockQuote:
Originally Posted by MK999
but i have run both boxes with a 7.5 clutch, hence my input to this thread :)
Nice one, your box is probably worth more than my build so it might have to be an F20 for me lol Nice to know there's options out there though, I guess from the rallying world mainly. Bit of sequential action would be awesome, DTA handling the flatshifting aspect :d
I'd imagine Lee has sourced his gearbox from a Vectra Challenge car. They've always been a good source of tricky bits.Quote:
Originally Posted by MK999
yup, luckily the guy who i got it from didn’t know what it was really, so i got it for a very good price, seen a few complete cars go but haven’t seen just a 'box for sale for a while
Have you thought about using a smaller alloy steering rack?
http://www.mambamotorsport.co.uk/com.../racerack.html
No, I had never considered it, and I've never seen that particular rack before.Quote:
Originally Posted by OllieKing
I shall need to do more research!
Thanks.
A few photos of the flywheel and clutch which have been in the car for the last 2.5 years of my ownership (and I suspect since the car was built in 1998);
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/002-69.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/003-72.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/004-61.jpg
On closer inspection the flywheel is showing signs of excessive heating, and there are a couple of hairline cracks showing, so it's definitely time for a replacement. The clutch plate is breaking up as well.
I'm going to have TTV make me up a billet flywheel, and Superclutch are going to make me a clutch, the only thing I need to decide now is whether to go for a 7.25" or a 5.5" clutch.
At the moment I have an F10 gearbox, with Quaife straight cut close ratio gear cluster and Quaife ATB. This still used the standard helical type CWP.
The F10 has always been on the margins of the torque it can handle, although it's survived very well considering. But I've been starting to think that traction could be improved with a plate type LSD instead of the Quaife one.
A few weeks back I bought a Corsa rally car, which has an F15 gearbox in it, with the stronger Quaife SCCR gear cluster fitted, and the straight cut final drive. But even better it has a Tran-X LSD in it on 55/90 ramp angles.
So that is going to get fitted ready for the new racing season;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/005-51.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/006-54.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/007-46.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/008-41.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/009-40.jpg
I was worried that the F15 would be heavier, but in fact they weigh precisely the same, which is great news. There are some interesting differences between the casings when you compare them............the F10 'box is the one which has been painted black.
shocked they weight the same, most bits look noticeably bigger on the f10
can you lighten the casing at all by drilling holes in the bell housing part or removing webbing etc?
with the amount of power going thru it, i'd say leave the gbox castings well alone.
There are a couple of external lugs that might get despatched, but as Mowgli says, I shall probably leave it alone internally.Quote:
Originally Posted by stt
Off to the paint shop (at last) on Wednesday, details of my colour choice will get a public unveiling here when it's finished.......
Have you thought about finding a lighter engine?
The corsa 1.0 I3 12v is all alumininium and must weigh a good 20-30kg's less than your current one.
granted you've just invested in your current engine but I would look at this engine rather than a x14xe devived one in future
you'll have problems with getting suitable parts but It would be worth it to not be lumped with the cast iron block and 2 valves per cylinder.
in PPC this month, theres a dyhatsui charade with a 1.0 3 cylinder turbo making 250bhp
The 3 cylinder is not an engine ever factory fitted in the Nova, so it's not allowed in the 'Modified Production' Class.Quote:
Originally Posted by joshy
Ahh fair enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
What about taking the shell to bare metal and just painting it in clear lacquer.... brush finish it first for the delorean look ;)
erm no.... cos its half composite
sorry smart ass :tosser:Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
you can insult me all you like, but i was only answered your suggestion.. which would look good on an all steel car (look up jimmy shines bare nekid pickup truck) but colins car has not got much outer steel left, apart from the roof.