Cheers for the update SteveQuote:
Originally Posted by steveboyslim
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Cheers for the update SteveQuote:
Originally Posted by steveboyslim
ah forgot you had the +2mm head off steve, proper bit of kit in that:D
Cheers Philip it should make for good drivingQuote:
Originally Posted by philip
update time.
my heated windscreen has turned up,with my brake lines, 4 way tee piece for the front lines off the pedal box. A pressure sensor for the brake lights.
a brand new set of valeo headlights and a set of euro lights from pie (cheers :thumb: )
Also the 1st fuel for the swirl pot
the start of the bits to make the 3" exhaust and the steel for the rear turrets so hopefully bey the weekend this should all be added to the car
But I have also decided that while its in bits im going to dry sump it so it will put the eta back a bit but should be finished for may
Cheers Gareth
been reading this one for a while, really like the spec, but i have to say, you need to change your thinking slightly imo
i’m all for the home brew, as anyone who knows me will tell you, but you are trying to get 275 bhp from a n/a two litre, not building a banger
i wasn’t going to say anything as you don’t seem to take constructive criticism well, but honing the bores in situ was the catalyst! the tolerances you are dealing with in a 2 ltr that will be revving to 9k with slipper pistons mean you need to get everything absolutely perfect or it will go wrong, those bores need to be honed properly on a proper machine and measured more accurately than a feeler gauge and a ring in a few places in the bore, friction is everything in an engine like this! and on that subject what about balancing? with the new rods and pistons i would wsnt to get the whole lot done, in my 1800 i even had the cams and pullies done as it sees 8600
also, won’t you want the block out to measure your compression ratio etc? you also imo need to get the block surface faced if you’re going to use a cometic gasket, they need a finish of 50 RA or finer and the cylinder pressures you will see mean you probably want to give the gasket all the help you can get!
what are going for c/r wise anyway? also the dry sump is a must so glad you've decided to go for that now too
this may seem like a long winded rant, but like i say, this is meant to be constructive, so hope you take it that way, as for me it would just be a shame to see some very nice components go to waste due to a little bit of missing attention to detail, it may cost a bit more than you hoped, but at the end of the day it will be worth it!
I feel the same as lee its like spending thousands on all the right parts then throwing it together for it to last five minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by lee303
Needs sent to a engine builders in my eyes but keep up the good work
it needs measuring and machining properly, i see nothing wrong with assembling it yourself, but it does need more care imo, c/r needs to be bang on, as does the squish clearance, its not a whack the head on and its done engine!
Cheers for the commments Lee. Its not I dont accept the critisim im just missunderstood lol.
As you were asking the 275 was a bit optimistic i understand that realisticly in a optimistic world I would like 260bhp. Im replacing the block because after suggestions made in regards to the honing I gained advice from the chap who did the machining work the last time round and will have the correct bore finish etc. as for the balancing the bottom end was all balaced the last time and I was told that as long as all four pistons conrods etc all weight the same then it will be ok (but I will ask the question)
the comp ratio should be 12.5:1 and I was told that was done on the head side but the guy who does the maching for me is spot on and will keep it right.
The dry sump was going to be an addition at the end of the year but would mean distrubing cams etc so may aswell do it now :thumb:
Cheers stee see the reply for info :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_stee
well, i’m glad the build has changed direction somewhat, i would get the whole assembly balanced even if the rods and pistons are the same tbh, vibration free in bicester are the best there is, not cheap but well worth it when dealing with an engine like this imo