Nice work. Gonna bring it down when its done? lol
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Nice work. Gonna bring it down when its done? lol
Maybe on a trailer! Feck off if I'm driving all that way I wouldn't have a spine left!! lol
A stiff body actually gives a better ride.
That's what she said.
LmaoQuote:
Originally Posted by Pistol Pete
No more to do on the front end at this time so back in with the engine, luckily it looks like I measured clearances correctly for my frame design!...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0F5ACCE199.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...742372F437.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...9632878728.jpg
Offering up the gearbox and working out the tunnel is next...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...C60BB73B0A.jpg
Then once thats in I can angle it up and start on getting the rear subframe attached to the car!
Was great to see the engine back in again. Makes it look more like a car again and gives you a little gee up after weeks on end of cutting, grinding & profiling of tubing!
This thing's gonna handle
Sarcasm? Can never tell with you! LolQuote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
I think that might be a genuine comment. Based on the position of your engine. Far back to enable good weight distribution.
By the looks of things No.2 cylinder will be inline with the front axle, it's a good position but a few inches further back would be even better.
Are you going to have opening rear quarters simps?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny A
There's certainly room to go further back but I didn't want to have to start making my own mounts or modifying the subframe at this stage. Moving the existing subframe further back would mean I'd have even more castor to dial in! I've got to dial in 3-4 inches already i think.
Not sure what you mean mate? As in the windows??Quote:
Originally Posted by burgo
Yes the windows. Reason I ask is you are fairly tall are you not? And with how far back your bulkhead is your seat is going to be to far back to reach the fronts or are you going to run electric windows?Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Ah I see! Polycarbs all round mate with probably sliders on the fronts and vents on side & rear. Remember its a track car and unlikely to ever be on the road.
Yes I know it is but it'll still get hot inside but you've planned for that so all good. Have you measured up to see where your sitting? When I did I realised I need to alter my cage
Funny you should ask that Burgs....Quote:
Originally Posted by burgo
Took a couple of hours out this morning for a play as I have guests all weekend and working late most nights next week :(
Put the gearbox into place...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...8DC214AF15.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...4EA48611EC.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...6C7877D49B.jpg
Its not bolted up yet just resting on the lugs and about 10mm off the block. It may not be in entirely square but close enough for what I was doing today.
Here you can see the clearance I have either side of the block, bearing in mind my sheet metal will be going on the outside edge of the box rail...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...E2B023046A.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...392438B7A1.jpg
Next up was to try and get a feel for seat clearance and leg room. Where I anticipate the seat to be this is where my leg out stretched comes too. I'm about 6ft...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0C1BF77C04.jpg
With a bent leg there should be room there for the floor mounted pedal box.
Seat height will be something like this as they will be about an inch or so off of the floor. Should be enough clearance for a helmet...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...438DBA56E3.jpg
I can't get a true representation of how the seats sit at this stage because the box rails are in the way. But this gives me a feel for it. The seat will be around 4" lower and hopefully another 1-2" further back and moved closer to the door...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...C46111C7EC.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...C4E67C97A2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...BA65A0A139.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...004B56B1C2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...82E0DC2A6B.jpg
The winged seats make it a tighter fit but hopefully I can work with them as I do love those seats!
Had a quick squizz at the prop situation. I'm going to need to shorten it by around 8". Now do I chop it down to one shaft or shorten each section to keep it 2 piece? Thoughts please...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...756E674B76.jpg
Cheeky barn door shot to finish on....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...EACF473C42.jpg
Christ you'll be sitting nice and far back... Good place tho as you'll be sat kinda in the middle of the car.
Lots of room around the box too. Guess you'll get a all in one bent sheet for the tunnel. Then gonna run a fully flat floor? Could have vents pressed in to it to aid cooling...
Box is quite small and light really. The tunnel will be tight against where the gearstick is tho I feel but manageable (hopefully!).
For the tunnel, not sure if I'll box it or have a nice curve or maybe a combo. A bit of cardboard design will help with that ;)
Once again you're reading my mind! I want a totally flat floor front to back and the panels that will bolt up under the engine, tunnel and rear subframe with have louvres pressed in. Thats the plan anyway!
Sweet, all good. Flat fllor with pressed loouvers will be awesome.
if you do have any louvres in the floor, makes sure they’re a decent way back, as they tend to wreck the splitters aero and actually increase lift, better off trying to duct in through the front efficiently and out through the top and take advantage of the pressure difference you can create
Good to know Lee, cheers!
Even where the engine is there it'll be excellent, of course any distance further in will amplify the gain.
Have you figured exactly where you'll have the seat, pedals, steering wheel will be in relation to the gear lever? What I mean is if the sky's the limit (which it may well be here), consider putting the seat as far back & lowdown as possible; providing you can get to the gear lever. Pedals & Wheel shouldn't be too difficult to cater for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
Seat will be going as far back as possible and around an inch off of the floor. Steering column will have some adjustability in length for different drivers. Pedals will be a floor mounted setup thats adjustable. The gear stick will hopefully be ok but if not I will have to do something like this...
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53...ps0207c266.jpg
I thought about saying about a shifter thing like that, but as the pic with the seat in look ok i didnt.
Yeah I'm hoping I won't need to but won't know for definite until I can get the rear end tagged in and lose the box rails, hence why thats the next job! Same story with the front end, need to wait until wheels are on and mounted before looking at it further.
I've got my A8 in for MOT in a week or so, so the plan is take the front wheels & tyres to get mounted at the same time. Can then get an idea of clearance etc then.
Good thinking.
Have you started looking at rear frame?
Yep :) Just waiting on some bushes to arrive then i can start building the framework.
Been a while since I updated so....
I took another look at the turret top set up and decided to slowly chop away at the a pillar to see what room I have to run a continuous bit of tube from the cage a pillar around the outside of the turret. It can work with only a slight kink needed as shown by the measure...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...E57409668A.jpg
Next up I bolted on one of my wheels I had a tyre put on this week so I can get an idea of clearance for the inner tubs. The car has been designed so the bottom arms will run just under level. So with the wheel onl I jacked the wheel until it was at this point. The hubs I intend on running raise the spindle which has the effect of lowering the car 50mm without even touching the coilovers. So to replicate this I then tried to jack the wheel 50mm but only got to about 35-40mm before the std shocks bottomed out. But it gives me a rough idea...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...A1B8E070D2.jpg
As I moved the engine back 2" I still need to dial in some decent amount of castor so the wheel is going to go a fair bit further forward as yet, so that in mind I started to think about the inner tub design and my new outer tubing route. If you can imagine the bit of upright box is tube it will be something like so...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...3179A43AD4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...2B564B8FE4.jpg
The upright tube I plan on being a one piece hoop that goes through the centre of the box rails, 90deg bend then straight across between the box then 90deg back up and through the other side. The bends and straight will be under the box, so an inverted hoop, and the tie/tension bar brackets will attach to this. The uprights either side that will come up through the box will meet up to the slam panel and be used to mount the rad, intercooler & oil coolers. As the force exerted on the lower cross member will be mostly forward motion under braking I intended on adding a diagonal from the upright down onto the tube coming from the bulkhead. Still with me? lol
So the new tube that will come around the outside of the turret top will bend down slightly and attach into the upright, probably at the same point the diagonal piece going to the bulkhead tube attaches. I will then run a piece of tubing (well actually 2!) to connect the new outer piece to triangulate into the bulkhead. Here's my half assed attempt at drawing it out...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...F6333A5734.jpg
Top drawing should hopefully be self explanatory and the bottom from a birds eye view shows the shaded areas where I will add sheet metal.
I would like to thank at this point all the people who gave constructive criticism on this area and got me to rethink the design. I gutted to loose the beauty of the full front wheel tubs but its function over form on this build. It needs to work!
So next was to take a look at getting a wing in place. So market out a preliminary cut along the existing swage line and set to it! *Remember the wheels has to come forward yet!*
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...6D6E058FEA.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...030E03F8DE.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...5AF588F42E.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...1063F8890E.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...9229B36D45.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...00B1AF5B75.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...48D55EB9FA.jpg
I think I will end up cutting it back to where we pencil line is then adding a flair a similar shape to the e46 M3's design...
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/1536/bse46m3002.jpg
Its certainly going to take some creativeness to blend it all in nicely with the sills/skirts...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...E9B9D08CA2.jpg
More progress at the weekend hopefully of which the plan is to get the rear end all lined up and square ready to be tagged into the cage. Oh and in other news, based upon the current gearbox and rear subframe position I will be able to run a completely flat floor from bulkhead back. The front subframe sits every so slightly below the floor line but only maybe an inch. Happy days! :D
Have you thought about golf arches? Possibly with G40 arch trims on? As they'd look similar to nova arches but bigger :)
Good work by the way :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by maddogdaz666
I had thought of going the golf route but they just won't be big enough. Will need to custom fab, something along the lines of this is the plan (at the moment! lol)...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Simps/1cad.jpg
With the outer tubing your gonna add, will you still want the side bars on the top mount? As you could replace them with flat sheet?
I think the bent tube will look better tbh.
I like your thinking with the arch. Could you not use a skirt and arch idea like the oval racer like boys do? As they add about 4-6 inches a side(arch) width.. They would i think easily cover the rear wheels and have a skirt that would still work... Altho i love the Caddy above! I love how and where they've widen the front arch...
.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
This is your only solution:
http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-conte...6_IMSA-001.jpg
Don't think - just do :)
Yeah the ones that hold the turret in place, surely you wont need both? If you could plate it.. But.
I'll try and get a pic of a racer, the are round and wide so might work.
Any link to the caddy build? It's not the one i thought it was.
Caddy Build - http://forum.savarturbo.se/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=69003
The tubing will be stronger than just the plate and weight negligible.
what about mk2 escort forest style arches?
Oh it is the same one i've read! Never seen the early photos when the inside was green.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Now Mr Day, i want to be able to take a photo of you like this...
http://forumbilder.se/CE0QO/301929-1...66841646-n.jpg
Not a huge fan of that style, besides, after all this effort with the custom fabrication why not fabricate my own arches! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by _Jake
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Oh Benn, believe me, I often dream about that day! :D
Bit more today focusing on the rear end as I really want to get it tagged into the frame!
So using a spare subframe I put in the polybushes i'll be using and I had some 5mm thick plates made up. I put the plates into place and bolted down then put a temporary tack bar in place...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...F122826089.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...27789FD36B.jpg
I then moved this over to my frame as I know its level and got the discs clamped down and temporary tack out the way...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...4CFF85A48A.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...510E24FEDC.jpg
Tack in the uprights then horizontal tubing making sure it was level. After tacking it ended up close enough to level for me!...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...D4D7A0F2BF.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...2A280082FD.jpg
That could then be put into place on the rear end...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...9A4C64851E.jpg
I could then get the rear end lined up level and with the use of the box rails I could get the whole thing true left to right, front to back and the diff angle matching that of the engine & box - i.e. for a straight, level prop! It would of been nice to then get it tagged into the cage but I've not enough tubing so will have to get some ordered.
In the meantime I made a clamp for use with my tube bender to help keep the pipe in the die and not rising and therefore kinking! Can't wait to test it out...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...95A381AD09.jpg