Brilliant stuff, this is going to be one hell of a weapon :)
Bay pics look the dogs danglies lol
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Brilliant stuff, this is going to be one hell of a weapon :)
Bay pics look the dogs danglies lol
explain...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sturge
The way the a-bar footplate's fitted it's not really doing much, if it takes a hit on the roof the plate will just bend. Should either sit hard against the sill and across the floor, or across the top of the sill and down the side, fully welded all the way round. The A-bar should sit hard in against the body as it runs up the A-pillar, following it tight up against the side of the screen. Should actually touch the body at the bottom and top of the raked back bit of the pillar. Then the screen bar should be a fairly tight fit, pushing the pillars out and sit hard up behind the roof crossmember at the top of the screen.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Chap
Just had another look, was maybe a bit harsh in my first post, sorry, no offence meant. I have seen a lot worse lol . ^ point still stands though. Would also put an infill in under the hoop footplate to strengthen that up a bit. With ref to the basic setup btw, I'd definately recommend sticking at least a rear diagonal (bottom of rear stay at the lh strut to top of other stay/hoop above drivers head) in there to to stiffen the shell up as i'd imagine the body'll flex like a barsteward with that power going through it!:thumb:
OOOOOOOhhhhhhhh your dead meat!!!!lol
i would agree with rear brace and diagonal but at the same time, the car isn't finished.
even if these weren't in colin's plans its certainly not something that can't be added. and the front plates can also be boxed in if he likes. i don't think i've seen a cage sit that close to the a pillar and certainly wouldn't descibe an inch gap or so as "poor". but again, this can be bridged with a plate as per pro cages
I did apologise for being a bit harsh, and was offering advice as someone who builds motorsport shells for a living. I'm aware it's not finished but people tend not to add things in after there's paint on. And it looks a lot bigger than an inch gap in the photos, which is all i was going on. As i said already, no offence was meant:thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Chap
The cage was a core kit3 from custom cages and the bends were not great so you can only pi55 with the c0ck you have eh?? And also they make the cage with the intentions of it sitting on the sill top thus making it sit alot closer to the a pillers, however i wanted it sitting on the floor but still welded to the sill to add strenth to the floor.
And as for the extra cage there is a bolt on brace going between the rear shocker tops
Cheers for the cage info tho it is the first one i have fitted :thumb:
That doesn't surprise me. The core kits are made from a different wall thickness tube to the normal kits so bend a bit differently, would've thought it should still fit pretty sweet though. Will look into that as I'm likely to be fitting at least 1 nova cage for myself in the very near future. Can see your thinking re the floor strength, I'd definately get those gaps filled in though and get some gussets knocked up for down the side of the screen. Also i'd still consider putting at least one diagonal in as it's the triangulation that gives it it's strength. If you need any help or info feel free to give me a shout
Ok mate cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by Sturge
:D