If Piper cams own Kent Cams then it's possibly not a silly place to start.
I was always under the impression that Quaife offered both plate and ATB type diffs, hence the reason we asked for their advice on fitment.
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If Piper cams own Kent Cams then it's possibly not a silly place to start.
I was always under the impression that Quaife offered both plate and ATB type diffs, hence the reason we asked for their advice on fitment.
Nope; only in the last few years this buyout has happened. I need to be careful what I say here as I've not even driven a FWD car with an LSD of any type BUT I'm told an ATB is not bullet proof and you still need to be mindful driving it hard; whereas the plate type only wears on the transition between open-locked locked-open.
Quaife used to offer just ATB style diffs
3 years ago they bought out Tran-X - I assume to acquire the plate diff tooling / product range / brand as probably cheaper than developing their own.
They now offer TranX branded plate diffs and Quaife branded ATB diffs. As an aside, the technical guys at TranX left and set up 3J driveline and make the NXG diff.
I run a TranX in the stage rallycar. I did do an events with an ATB but didnt like it at all. I like to "lean" on the diff out of slippery 2nd gear type corners and let it tighten the line but the ATB didnt do this.
Obviously a TranX costs more to run as it has the wearable plates but I would think a road/track car would do 2k-3k miles before being needed as its not really worked *that* much compared to the rallycar. It also depends how much preload is added - mine is tight enough to drive on one shaft and get me out of a stage (as proved in barbados where we did around 8 stage miles and 12 road miles to get back to service) although that really f*cks the plates.
Paul..
Thanks for the info Paul.
I did nearly 4,500 miles last year, I'm also not sure I've got the driving skill to be able to tell the difference between the 2 diffs if I'm honest. I just don't want it to spin the inside wheel out of hairpins and having been in Elf's car his ATB stops this from happening.
I really hate taking the box apart and dropping driveshafts out to change diff plates. I wanna drive it not fix it!!! Haha
I think if you are after ultimate lap times go with a plate diff ,if you just want an improvement on an open diff and limited maintainance then go with an ATB .my plate diff is fantastic ,but is a handful in damp conditions ,it's setup very tight and needed new plates after a season and a half
Thanks for the input Mr Mex, this is exactly what the guy at Donny said on Saturday. I don't think I'm good enough to drive the car hard enough to warrant a plate diff, plus Iain's ATB was a handful in the wet at Snet, I was on the power a lot earlier out of corners (may have been due to the crappy tyres he was running) I appreciate that ATB's aren't exactly fit and forget but from what I've read they're more fit and forget than the plate ones, I've also heard from Harvey that his plate diff clatters a little and I won't be able to handle that noise!!!
An interesting debate on diffs, can I suggest you try to persuade Iain to let you have a run out in his car with the ATB, then maybe find someone who'll let you try their car with a plated diff fitted. That would I hope make it a little easier to make an informed decision, shouldn't it? Better start brushing up on your negotiating skills... :thumb:
Loving the direction your re-build is going in, I'll be following with added interest.
On the subject of your pedal box, I was looking at this option for my build, but an put off by the fact the whole assembly sits so far off to the left, especially as I've gone to a fair amount of effort to get the seat and steering wheel lined up. Imagine then my surprised when you've seemingly put the assembly even further over to the left...
Are you sure this is a good decision (i.e. have you sat behind the wheel)?
As a matter of interest I'm giving serious consideration to retaining the standard throttle (albeit after a bit of custom bending) and making up my own two pedal assembly mounted right up against the base of the inner wheel arch, but then I'm a masochist who's apparently trying to make even more work for himself....
Love the video by the way, definitely better from the inside mounting point.
Getting Iain to let my drive his car would be harder than convincing my wife to perform a special Christmas performance on the pink oboe!!
However I could probably tempt him with cheese-less pizza. I need to drive one before making a final decision.
As for the pedal box I just put it where it looked right, it feels ok for me when sat in the drivers seat, that being said the entire driving position need to be played around with so nothing is final.
Not enough porn on here anymore so thought I'd add some
checking valve clearances, we've got an issue on the inlet valves, with the buckets and a 150' shim we've still got a valve clearance of 80'. Some more investigation needed here, we're checking the seat heights as we're not sure if the seats have been cut correctly.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...7C44937D09.jpg
Bit of vac testing!! Darren just likes to see the sucker suck.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...DB0D52D2A4.jpg
Had to drill out one broken stud and tap the other 4 as they were a bit pooey.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...713905854D.jpg
Decking
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...FD3CC1A1BA.jpg
Faced the bottom of the block aswell, will get my sump faced before it's fitted aswell, give it every chance of sealing!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...482E8F2972.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...11B1E71CCA.jpg
CC'ing for compression ratio, currently at 12.75:1 little bit of work to get to 12.5:1
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...5C7F1F7A0E.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...B7CC649D7A.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...10A15EEE71.jpg
Chambers and ports look good.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...C2AA777F8B.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...5142405F6C.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...E4867B2EB0.jpg
Shiney, even took the core plugs out the head to make sure everything is correct.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...8065801324.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ECE1C3E8DB.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...C87C514C0A.jpg
Just need to solve the valve clearance questions and we can look to get something built.
Are you use PH4 or PH5 Newman cams ? . I've just got a PH3 288 for my 1.4 8 valve.