As Lee said, the coilovers have pillow ball style mounts so camber/castor is adjusted from there. I will also have a lot of adjustment in the suspension arms.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
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As Lee said, the coilovers have pillow ball style mounts so camber/castor is adjusted from there. I will also have a lot of adjustment in the suspension arms.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
i never said it would be easy! personally i think you should drill or cut a hole through the top of the jam at an angle (it won’t affect the strength with all that tube in there) so you wouldn’t need an S bend, just a curve, as like you say you are compromising currently, and making it harder to make it strong without adding weight, it might be hard, but you only need to build it once!
end of the day though, its your project :thumb:
I appreciate the input, its the main reason I post it on forums, I want people to chirp up as its easy to miss things when you're close to it. As I said, I did have a look at that option but it wasn't viable in my mind. I will revisit it tho and take a few more detailed pics to give a better idea of what I'm working with.
Si,
Could you not do it like this? Bring a bar from the std chassis leg but bent tight to the top mount, which then joins the new chassis (red bar) use one of your bars you have now to join the gap at the front of the mount (red bar again)
Then thin bar off that (blue) for the wing and headlight (orange) to hang off...
This way you only need to remove two bars but reuse one and bend one new... Looks alot like what drift and race car chassis kinda use..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps32ec2283.jpg
Funnily enough Benn that's the way I thought I'd do it after seeing the pictures. Extend the red line upwards (in the pic, backwards in person) to meet the A pillar and it's all tied in to the cage too.
I thought With the bar welded in/tagged in to the std chassis leg. You get lots of strength to the front cage/frame plus you can keep things kinda flowing in the same way (shock mounts and bits)
To me in those last two pictures it looks like there is space above the turret to run from the a piller tube forward above the turret and then curving down and round to meet the chassis leg. That would mean no s shaped bar and a much simpler and stronger set up.
Did try to draw a picture on my phone but failed
Kinda like this,
Then you can remove a bar, bend a bar and a bit of flat shaped plate. (Which you could add a wheel tube too)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps7e7b52f4.jpg
No Benn not like that. Ive attempted to draw a picture. Just waiting for 15% battery to take a pic lol. Im also afraid its not alot like you design simps. Its how I think I would do it
That's just how i thought of doing it. Or having a tube at the front instead of the plate.
For me the lower dash bar is what confuses the whole thing so much, theres simply no need for it. With that in mind this is probably a sort of route I would go
.http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...psbd05afaa.jpg
I think you could adapt bars 1,2,3 into your design quite successfully though. I'll have another look at how i would do it with the two dash bars when Im not supposed to be asleep
i would go along with something like this and same on the opposite side if enough room.
http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/p...Untitled-1.png
One continuous radii of tube around the top mount from the upper chassis tube, basically encircling the top mount by 180 degrees. Then plate the remaining area between top mount & upper chassis tube. Forward triangulate it to the lower box section chassis & triangulate it from the A pillar tubing. Weld in a few gussets on the joins to finish.
No biggie. Job done.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psff59997d.jpg
And you could be really trick and continue forward "wire framing" it so youll have somewhere to mount the headlights/indicators and bumper, rad etc etc using something like thin wall 10mm OD tube. Like this mean machine built in a shed in America by a 20 odd year old lad lol
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psdb7adff6.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pse673694b.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psb216c4a0.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
This is something I considered and looked at. I had a go at taking the a pillar bar onto the top of the turret top with it being angled, like my drawing below, with the idea of then having another piece starting the other side of the turret or from the chassis like you've drawn. I discounted the idea like my drawing as I wanted something that wrapped around the turret not just start stop. The wrap around like above I would want it to join up at a right angle not angled to the main support. I personally think it would suit the look of the tubs better.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...92733ADF01.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by burgo
The reason for the lower dash bar was more to profile the bulkhead nicely and add a touch more strength.
There isn't enough room to run a bar from a pillar and over the turret. The wing is basically sat on the top of the turret plate towards the front of the car. I could I guess cut some of the wing away and the side of the bonnet but thats just not tidy enough to me personally.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonn
That would be getting a bit too close for wheel clearance and complicates the tub design and looks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
That design was also considered but getting the bend nice around the shape of the turret top is beyond my skill set but essentially thats where my current design evolved from. I know a continuous tube would be stronger but what I've done isn't exactly weak either! The important thing I need to do is support that outer right edge to counteract any twist under vertical load. I think this can be achieved with the tubbing and running along the where the wing mounts are then down to chassis.
That work of art above is from an aussie lad who believe it or not had never welded, bent or profiled tube before. He bought himself a TIG & bender and went from there. He mocked up a lot using plumber plastic pipe. Its also running an SR20DET lump and running gear and originally ran the front & rear subframes but as his skills improved he decided to just make his own.
Yellow Pages > section benders/steel fabrication.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
That's the only route Id go IMO. Granted its your car/build/time/money etc but last thing Id want to do is finish a build like this and always be thinking "I wish Id have done it like that, or like this" etc etc. But would look nice, neat, pleasing on the eye, and can easily add tubing to it in the wing mount area down to the chassis as you've already said.
My pipe bender, with the size tube I'm using, does a too tight of bend to wrap nicely around the turret. After talking with a local shop that uses a machine bender there profile was too long in comparison. So getting something to contour the turret nicely would be a challenge! I'm gonna have a go tomorrow I think if I can find a bit of scrap tube at doing small, incremental bends every 10mm or so and see if I can put a gradual bend in tidy.
I always though he was American LOL shows how much I read what he posts on facebook lol lol have you seen the wheel trolly he made?Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
See my reply above about local fabricators. Besides, looks wise its all under the wing and hardly seen! lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
I was going off the stance works build features it had on their pages, I may be wrong. Has he got a fb page then? Not seen this trolley.
Yea just seen your post lol
You follow him on facebook (Engineered to slide) his whole blog is on there if ya didn't know already?
EDIT: His facebook has all the stuff his made, even his bagged trailer lol lol his crazy wheel trolly with miniature steering rack etc. Guys a proper genius lol
Simps runs off to search Facebook.....
Even his pit trolly has stance ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
www.engineeredtoslide.com
Defo one of the best automotive blogs on the internet last/this year.
Thanks for the link.
This --> http://engineeredtoslide.com/2014/01/ps13na-re-tub/ is similar to how I want mine to essentially look with the clean tubes. Would be nice if he could finish it asap so I can see where he adds! lol
Ive lost hours of my life reading his blog & facebook lolQuote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Ah right I see.
Mount the tubs on top of the chassis tubing using rivnuts or similar and a load of anodised bolts, trick as. Thus hiding all the suspension setup/top mount/caliper/disc etc but still stopping water/dirt spraying all over the bay ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
Sort of yeah! I was going the be placing a sheet butted up against the outside edge of my front to bulkhead tubes i.e. on the outside edge of the box rail. The top of the curve would come off the side of the horizontal turret top tube and flow down to the front. I had been considering having a piece of tube running the full length along the front (holding tie bar brackets in-between the box rails) so the bottom edge of the curved piece comes down to it. But all would be welded thus the added strength!
Its perfectly doable then by the sounds of it. Fixed or welded tubs, aye its doable. Obviously depending on what way you go with the top mount chassis area because of space mind but yea. Get some ideas an see what fits and what don't.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Anyway, Ill leave you to look around his FB pics lol hours of awesomeness for what your building :)
Ive realised one thing with this thread. Ive completely forgot how I was gonna do mine lol
Havnt you kept the original turrets & chassis rails?Quote:
Originally Posted by burgo
i love the Truck build, it's fantastic!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
It will look like that yes. Still need to work out how to tie it all together thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
Ah this pics shows my thinking, but way better drawn out...
http://d1fky78qlmfyn9.cloudfront.net...9/IMG_1714.jpg
I would love to of done it like that Benn but when I looked at it it just wasn't stacking up. I'm heading up there now. Will take some more details pics and have a good butt scratch.
After much looking, debating and considering what I want in the end I'm going to continue the route I am. After being directed to another thread of a 1jz Caddy, the front end is similar with the tubs as to what I am looking to achieve and I believe it will be strong enough. This is where I'm at...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...273CC754EA.jpg
And how the caddy was done...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...32413P9c77.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...32147P40f0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...41906P4ca7.jpg
I too had always planned to triangle into the dash and bottom of the a pillar. I did look at the possibility of the outside of the turret making it through to the a pillar and it could go. So I may still tweak that yet but it will run straight down the wing line and maybe bend down to mate with an extended lower cross member. I will assess that after the tub is installed.
I appreciate the benefits of having the one piece sweep round and down to the chassis like the yute but I also have to consider routing of various parts and much like the 1jz the outlets will flow well with my design with room to have the air filter behind the headlight comfortably.
Thanks for everyones input tho and please don't stop!
That shade of green is win; spray yours like that.
Ah thought it was the purple Caddy... Love that thing, totally mental.
Glad you've worked out what your gonna do. Time to get cracking..lol
Other turret now all tacked up....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...A7E2D716E9.jpg