Printable View
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../05-05-083.jpg
You cut an incision down the triangular supports that mate with the back plates. You can then knock in the end plate then re-weld. Make more sense?
Be careful tho on standard inner arches as they will catch like mine above.
Or if you're putting disc conversion plates on for the first time you can tack the top in flush and pull the bottom out a little then beef with weld.
arr i see now matey. cheers for ya help. will do it this way i recon :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
or maybe even take it to a machining shop and get some taken off the face where the hub bolts the the beam :thumb:
u running discs or drums? machine shop sounds a good idea.
-0.5deg would be nough on standard arches. As long as they aren +ve! lol
lol
its on a corsa mate so turret space is'nt as bad, running disks yes. running cut slicks on the back and they catch on harsh bumps and the noise goes through me. lol so had an idea of putting abit of -'ve camber on the back should stop it. not really into hammering my inner arches or cutting them.
fair do's lol
Had some free time tonight and had a fairly productive hour or so.
First job was to mount the rad and drill the new holes bearing in mind that although I'm fitting an XE I'm also doing all the prep now for if/when I go to LET saving having to respray etc.
So turbo into place...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-081.jpg
Take a couple of the original mount rubber and chop the little bits off...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/29-09-08.jpg
Put the rad into place in the middle and drill two respective holes...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-082.jpg
Its hard to see from the pic but I drilled a whole in the slam panel and put a long bolt thru that goes to the old fan shroud mounting point. This will then pull and hold the rad as far forward as it needs to be...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-083.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-084.jpg
On then goes the fan and as you can see it all clears...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-085.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-086.jpg
Next I drilled the hole for the cav shifter to go thru. Just need to chop and straighten it now...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-088.jpg
And then I attacked my front wings. I was gonna roll then but saw both OllyH and Spanish had just grinded there's I thought sod it! Grinders are more fun anyway! I didn't take it all the way flat but can always take more off if needed. Shaved top, original bottom...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-087.jpg
Getting there :D
looking good mate, how have you mounted your cooling fan?
Quote:
Originally Posted by belly257
You can buy mounting kits which are basically 4 long plastic, flexi bolts that you pierce thru the rad fins and out the other side. You then put a plastic nut on and chop off the excess. I'll take some pics when I'm next up there.
ok matw do they not melt? ive heard you can put cable ties on them lolQuote:
Originally Posted by The Simps
na, no melting lol
Had a bit more time up the workshop tonight.
Fitted the lowering blocks with longer bolts that Shaun kindly made up for me. The front all ready now for the coilovers and hubs to go on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/08-10-08.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../08-10-081.jpg
I then put the coilovers onto the rear and got that on the ground. I took them straight off Shaun's and didn't touch the height and his wheel sat just on the lip with the tyre in the arch. It was way too high so dropped it another 30mm and it still sits like this which I'd like to get lower and can as have 100mm of thread left yet.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../08-10-082.jpg
The coilovers bodies clear the inner arches without any bashing but they're still getting turreted and move inwards to allow for wider wheels. The RHD tyre does lightly catch on the springbut then has more arch lip clearance than the other side which will need the lip rolling, which I was gonna do anyway. Typical vauxhall tolerences!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../08-10-083.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../08-10-084.jpg
I hear your pain Si lol
Altho looking rather shexual :D hmmm complete round rear quarters on a hatch... mmmm
your taking to long simps :(
I've thought of that before, mk1 Golfesque....Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Si my r/hand rear wheel was closest to my coilovers, touching infact.
Quote:
Originally Posted by burgo
Money and time mate!
The above pic it is sat low. If you look at it from the view that a normal box arch runs from the top of the bumper and in line with the bottom of the fuel cap.
Fronts will be next to go on as they need to be level with that at the end of the day, no point the back being lower.
Also looking at some other slammed coupes the rears aren't right up in the arch with the fronts very low and they look level :(
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/971/pic0050mz7.jpg
Not liking the look of the extended tiebar mount where it bolts onto the vertical of the cross member.
Although the geonometry is improved you've now weakened that component.
bend up some sheet steel and weld it around the vertical mounting area and back down to the 45º to give it the strength it should have.
Not quite sure what you mean mate? I'm assuming its in reference to the extended tabs on the bracket itself?
Exactly that I think Si (Simps)
I think Si (BG) means he doesn't like the look of the green, as you've lost the strength.
And also you'd benefit and can get the strength back using a 45° piece of 2mm, and weld it to the underside of the mount (red)
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...TBbrackets.jpg
Thats what I thought but isn't that red bit at a 90deg angle? lol
They were ok on my old turbo but admitedly those ones had a lot thicker steel on the extension.
Would the plate have to be welded in or cud it just be sandwiched inbetween? (I've already had the mounts powdercoated lol)
lol @ angle fail, I didn't even notice either lol
Despite every best effort in lowering the tiebars & mounts to prevent diving under hard braking, obviously there is still alot of motion and force at the lower section of the mount itself, which would pressing in a forwardly and downward motion (blue).
My only slight concern would be the possibly breakage of the extended/ welded tab which would leave the horizontal bolt in situ, along with the extension... (orange) and the rest of the tiebar bracket either twisting the lower panel, or snapping bolts completely without the help of the horiz bolt.
Obviously this is worse case scenario, but maybe just a whizz around with a welder would put your mind at rest? even if its a case of rattle canning the mounts once they're done.
Sanwiching a plate in between wouldn't offer the existing metal any support at all from what I can see
Groovy pic:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...Bbrackets1.jpg
I understand completely where you're coming from and suprised I missed it :doh:
I just wished I took them to the guy who done them for me on the nova last time as I waited ages for the above ones and they still aren't right.
They're coming off again anyway so will weld something in then.
Cheers for the constructive input.
Well I was only elaborating on what Simon brought up to be honest.
However I know of someone else that has done exactly the same there, but I'm always hesitant of bring stuff to peoples attention just incase they think I'm an ar.se, well, or even more of an ar.se that they think already lol
As you say, you might be fine, but then there is always that thought that you might not be...
You are an @rse and have stolen my idea!! lol lolQuote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Looking good there btw have you a deadline set for completion in your own mind Simps?
Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Thats probably because I put it in one of the *HOW TOs* for fitting an F28! lol I'll update it once I've modded mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
I'd like it ready for next spring when the nice weather comes round but depends how money goes tbh as this is last on the spending list each month and being a financial advisor in the current climate is hard work!
I've modded my tie bar brackets like yours are Simps and had absolutely no problems yet. The car has been hammered up the drag strip loads this year so if something was going to fail i'm sure it would have done by now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee H
Good to know! What thickness of material did you use for the extended bit?
Can't remember exactly, was similar to the thickness of the original bracket. Plus mine doesn't quite meet the crossmember due to how they were done so have two washers between the exteneded part of the bracket and crossmember as well which I thought might have caused a problem but hasn't.
Quote:
Originally Posted by belly257
Hope this helps you mate...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...5-10-085-1.jpg
Front coilovers are now on! And like Olly H the spring platform clearance is very close but thats without any discs on. I'm gonna pic up some discs before the weekend then I can get it on the floor and start playing!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../15-10-083.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../15-10-084.jpg
The newly axquired welder then came out for a blast and tacked my washer bottle mount in place.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../15-10-082.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../15-10-081.jpg
So next up to pic up some front discs and get some tyres swapped over so I've got 4 wheels then it can all be put back onto 4 wheels!
Carrying on from last night.
I didn't bother getting any discs as I didn't want to buy new ones as by the time this car hits the road it could be wearing 4 pots anyway.
So wheels on and dropped to the ground and I hadn't adjusted the coilovers since being on shaun's car where they were on the top of the arch...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/16-10-08.jpg
Naturally that soon got fixed and they were wound down. The drivers side was down around 40mm to the bottom of the thread and the passenger down around 20mm with 20mm still to go. The results...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-10-081.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...16-10-0811.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-10-082.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-10-084.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-10-085.jpg
Front does still sit slightly higher than the rear tho, but not much.
The downpipe clearnace is around 110/120mm or 4-4.5".
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-10-086.jpg
Control arms sit nice and flat but the tie bar does sit very close to the box so I think I will bring the front mount down from 25mm to 50mm.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-10-089.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-10-087.jpg