parrallel bodies then dave?
Check the rod caps fully, are they not stamped? (one dot for cyl 1, 2 dots for cyl 2 ect ect)
parrallel bodies then dave?
Check the rod caps fully, are they not stamped? (one dot for cyl 1, 2 dots for cyl 2 ect ect)
That box excites me :D This is quickly growing into my favourite nova, even with 'slabs.
yeah, apparently has the upper hand on torque over taper bodies..? i wanted them in red but they only do them in black nowadays..Quote:
Originally Posted by John H
i wasnt even sure of availability of taper bodies for the 1800cc ...
just checked the rod ends; cant see any dots; on one side each have a two digit number; one says 40, another 53, another 59 and the last 60...?
theres another number on the opposite face side, hard to make out..
40 one says 151, 53 one says 151, 59 one says 161, last 60 one says 161..
wierd science.
THAts a nice box of bits there :cool:
Good stuff
the general consensus is that tapers have the upper hand on torque over parallels, but its a minimal difference, i remember D walker doing some back to backs in CCC years ago, anyways, looking forward to seeing this built, hope the caps are fractured as i said so they can be easily paired back up, as they are not marked from the factory, thought i'd relpy so i can be subscribed to make it easier to find and keep up with the progress:thumb:
wow dave, you've been busy! love the goodies in the box!
cheers lee, nice one..:DQuote:
Originally Posted by lee303
well here is a pic of a cap on a rod end with hopefully at the bottom, the fracture u speak of..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/SP_A1516.jpg
they are marked from the factory tho:
this one says 40
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/SP_A1517.jpg
the others say 53 59 and 60, as mentioned in the thread earlier..
We had a look today and we think it just goes in assending order; piston 1 = 40, piston 2 = 53, pist 3 = 59 and 4 = 60..
dunno lol.
fraid not, thats a batching number, just a coincidence they were in ascending numerical value
main thing is you can get them back in the right pairings now, not so easy with flat cut types!
*Update
Previously; The rod ends indeed arent numbered arent in any order - they do fracture when you remove them- so each one is unique.
It was these fractures being unique that helped us piece together how they went back.
But non the less- Top Tip: Number them before hand. lol.
So we matched up each one back to its other half - fitting the arp's.. finally.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/SP_A1518.jpg
Then we went to refit the degreased sump back on but the last nut took the thread out of the block :-o grrr
We decided to torque-up the sealed sump reguardless and worry bout that thread another day.
I then just degreased the rest of the engine, prepping for some paint.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/SP_A1524.jpg
So it ought to be possible to rethread the one hole with the sump in place, wont it??
Anyway; we'll give it a go.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/SP_A1503.jpg
Next job CamBelt Kit. Picked this genuine new 'kit up for £50. Ace.
More again soon.
you'll easily helicoil that bolt in place, but you may need a dowty washer(washer with a rubber sealing ring inside it) to make it seal round the bolt hole once the helicoil is in place
good work on the caps!:thumb: