All looking excellent. I’m especially jealous of the new gearbox.
Just wondering why why you want to use a standard-type tank? You may have explained already, in which case my apologies.
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All looking excellent. I’m especially jealous of the new gearbox.
Just wondering why why you want to use a standard-type tank? You may have explained already, in which case my apologies.
Gearbox has been on the list for a while mate!! Just needed the planets to align!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
Both times I've put TB's on a nova it's been with what I now know to be a carb tank, terrible starvation problems below have a tank of fuel when going round roundabouts. So I ran an external swirl pot with lift pump and HP pump and filters and all that jazz.
Well I decided to get hold of an injection tank with the built in swirl pot but they're rarer than rocking horse shit, or atleast Iain couldn't find me one (he's shit), so bought the carb one from eBay and then this rusty one from a donor car we've got, cutty cutty weldy weldy!!
I also hate barb fittings with a passion, so want to use some AN fittings direct out of the tank which means a bit of chopping about too.
Edit to add as I just read your question properly Colin!!
Standard tank position is best for weight and COG, low down, outside the cabin, I’ve got a wheel well mounted tank in the current shell, it’s crap!! Annoying to fill, stinky if spilt.
Nom nom nom....nom :)Quote:
Originally Posted by House
jealous of the new gearbox :eek:
You wouldn't be jealous of the cost!!! Fucking thing!!Quote:
Originally Posted by prs
In other news.
Got hold of this Irmscher front valence, fixes directly to the front of the car for use with a skinny front bumper
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5eceb67210.jpg
Got a rear one too, undecided on it
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9eaec3b981.jpg
Fuel pump also arrived, got the connector soldered on, all these bits coming together now
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Steering wheel too
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Any chance you could PM me, or better still e-mail me directly please?
id like to chat gearboxes with you. Thanks
Evening all.
Few cool things today, well I think they’re cool, you lot might not give a flying fuck!!
Firstly to whet your appetites!!
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Ben is planning a few days work on the shell so hopefully will be some more updates.
Onto fuel system, this has been the bane of my existence over the last few months, trying to source an SPI tank and then if I could find one how to fit an uprated pump in the tank.
In the end we decided the best way was to sort it ourselves, popped to The Phirm today to borrow Tim’s knowledge.
Few pics to do the talking, mark out and cut the tank open
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Exposes the attempt at an in tank swirl pot, but it’s totally inadequate
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This is no good, it wont retain the fuel in the swirl pot, no matter what happens the fuel level in the swirl pot would never get above the level of the surrounding tank, the fuel would just drain out of the holes arrowed and thanks to the laws of physics the level in the swirl pot would equalise with the level outside it.
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Had to use an aftermarket fuel sender as I searched high and low for a brand new Nova sender but no luck, this one came from CBS and the float is secured correctly as per the instructions
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Made this little doubler plate up with the AN-8 weld on fittings
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Mocked up some tubing using the original gauze filter on the end of the pump feed
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Tim’s not bad with the TIG!!!
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Fully glued in place
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Made some little tabs to hold the swirl pot into place, was really tough welding these in, had to be so careful not to melt the plastic pot
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Tested it with the hose pipe on the return line only, you can see the jet pump effect as the return line feeds the swirl pot, with the hose on very very slowly, to simulate a return feed from the the fuel rail, it keeps the pot full to the brim and over flows to the rest of the tank, the jet pump effect also draws fuel into the pot from the tank via the clever little gauze filter thing.
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Once the hose is off the the fuel level slowly drains back to match the tank level, as soon as the hose is back on it fills the pot again. So whenever the engine is running the swirl pot will be kept full by the returning fuel from the rail. It will be possible to run the tank down to almost empty now without any chance of starvation.
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Oh and a cheeky shot of the fuel pump and inline filter, these will be mounted to a plate next to the tank, more work for Ben.
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All I have to do now is connect up my Dash2, fill the tank with 5 litres, measure the voltage on the fuel level sender, then see how much it take to fill the tank, divide that amount by 100, then fill the tank in 10% increments and measure the sender voltage, tell the Dash2 the measurements we've taken, it will create an equation and we'll have an accurate fuel level. Set the dash alarm to trigger at 15% and it will tell me when fuel level is low.
Get the hole saw back out, you can get a few more holes in that. Looking good.Quote:
Originally Posted by House
The fuel tank mods are genius, great way to make a standard one fit for your purpose.
Fuel level sensor calibration today
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Tested with water but will call it fuel cos I’ll confuse myself otherwise, set the tank as level as possible as it would be in the car, got it to hold 38.5 litres of fuel.
Set the dash to display in litres remaining as this to me is more useful than a percentage, also as litres it also means that if the tank holds 41 litres when fuel it should display 41 and not 112% for example.
Here displaying 15 litres
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It’s also pretty accurate, during the drain down test it registered each 5 litre increment pretty well so I’m confident it’ll work.
Set the 0 on the dash with around 3-4 litres of fuel still available in the tank, with the alarm at 5 litres, I’ll have to be pretty dumb to run out!!
Here is a video of the last 6-7 litres of fuel coming out of the feed to pump fitting, this was done with no return feed and back to the pot and just gravity drawing the fuel out, very happy with both the flow rate and the level at which it runs dry
https://youtu.be/6AcGOAA3QIU
Also spoke to Quaife and have ordered a gearbox oil cooler system to fit to the new box, not from Quaife, it’ll be one we make up ourselves, drawing oil from the drain plug and returning it to the redundant reverse sensor hole
Should be relatively easy to manage, nice little pump that will draw from up to 1.5m below the pump head, mocal oil to air cooler and a 200 micron in line filter.
Luckily the Quaife gear indicator also displays oil temp and can be set to alarm at a certain temp, say 95 degrees and I’ll just manually turn on the gear oil cooling at that point. The pump manufacture doesn’t recommend pumping oil below 60 degrees.
Good work House
Great idea on the gearbox cooler! Maybe take the feed from a bit higher than drain plug though. I find mine crud’s up with material from the clutch plates and unidentified metals.
Why not have a thermostatic switch to trigger at 95 degrees to save havingnti remember to switch it on or off?
We've just discussed this very thing, the quaife sequential shifter will flash quite a serious warning at 100 degrees and will continue to flash until the temp drops.Quote:
Originally Posted by stt
I discussed with Craig that I may be able to piggy back off the temp sensor already in the box and use that to turn the pump on and off. That would require me to make some kind of monitoring device that would receive the input voltage and when it gets to a certain millivolt figure to turn the fan on.
Ofcourse if I had a better ECU I could wire it to the ECU and output to a relay for the pump.
I'm thinking about what I can do on this.
Few little pics today from Ben
Wheel well is no more, it was bent and battered anyway so had to come out.
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Brake balance adjuster added to the back of the shift tower
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Also some bracing under the shift tower to stiffen things up a little
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In an idea shamelessly stolen from Craig, fuel pump pre filter, pump and post filter will be mounted in a box under the flat floor, with direct AN fittings in the side with the tank supply and feed to the fuel rail.
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Few little updates from Ben this week
Cross member off
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Drop plates made
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Welded in place
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Nice chassis leg mod for the dry sump pump
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After a few words with Craig and hearing some issues he had with standard crank sensors, I spoke to SBD who relieved me of a few quid for this bottom pulley and crank sensor. Big thanks to Harvey for sorting the links out for me to just click and buy the alternator pulley from Brise.
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Also popped to see Nick (Totalnova) in the week and picked up a set of wheels, which I'll be using as wet tyre wheels
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My phone just went mad, Ben was keeping these a secret
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Brackets just tacked on at the moment, to be fully welded
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Rad and gear oil cooler positions decided upon, gives room for a larger radiator if we run into water cooling problems.
Was a pleasure to meet you, was shame we couldn't chat for longer. I'm just glad to the wheels have gone to a good home and I'm sure they will get a good thrashing.
Nick
Yes mate, was good to meet you too, we’ll both be at some events this year, we can chat it up there!!Quote:
Originally Posted by totalnova
Wheels will get abused!! Promise!!
That crossmember is awesome, so much better than the bolt on tie bar bracket setup.
Yes, yes it is!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain
Realistic carbon effect.
Is that the £10 Corex that everyone else uses or something different?
It's £10 corex wrapped in £240 carbon effect sticky backed plastic
Few little bits today, waiting on the gearbox to come from Quaife.
Rad mounts
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Removable slam
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That cross member is a work out art.
Is the rad solidly mounted? Would it not benefit from some vibration absorbing mounts to reduce fatigue?
The bottom of the water rad is rubber mounted, as is the top of the gearbox oil radQuote:
Originally Posted by stt
It is, there’s more to comeQuote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Few little things, nothing too major.
Remote oil filter housing and laminova cooler mounts, hopefully gonna squeeze the laminova above the steering rack, or around that area, removing the water pipe from behind the engine and making a custom alloy pipe water system to feed the cooler.
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As I'm running a custom heater matrix and need a way of diverting the hot water away from the matrix, I shamelessly stole this idea from Project Binky, Ford Ranger heater valve.
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Quick explanation, water flow via blue line, purple valve set to closed (cold air)
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Water flow via blue line, purple valve set to open (hot air)
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Push pull cable to activate
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As I'm sure everyone is thinking this is a cheque book build and I can't make anything myself, I modified it as it's vacuum activated, no good for me, removed the vacuum actuator and did a bit of welding, made up a lever for it and welded that on, had to buzz it and throw it in a bucket of water a few times as the butterfly is plastic and i had to be real careful, melting it would have been counter productive.
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Bit of matt black.
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Ready to go, just needs a little clip for the cable, worry about that once we've decided where to mount it.
Quaife tell me the box should be ready last days of October or the first few days of November.
I always thought this was gonna be a propper racecar, so what do you need that heater matrix for? :wisewood:
Nothing Team Shonky Vauxhall do is proper mate!!Quote:
Originally Posted by prs
Heater matrix is a simple choice, had a wet day with Craig at CC, the screen misted up, couldn't see, needed warm air to de-mist, red car has a heated screen but it didn't work properly.
The matrix won't detract anything from the engine, hence the valve, it'll just be a closed loop when the heat is off and on the rare occasions I need screen clearing, mainly wet days, I won't be flat out anyway.
I looked into electric options but the amperage was disgusting. This is the best plan by far.
I still think it's :gay:Quote:
Originally Posted by House
even with an misted screen you should be able to beat Iain, right?
the rest of the work looks top notch. looks like it is gonna be ready for paint by the end of the year..?
Iain loves a challenge, the misted screen might have been a good handicap system.Quote:
Originally Posted by prs
I think paint this year might be pushing it but, it's possible. More than likely it'll be early Jan.
I'm relying on House being too scared to bend the new shell - with 250bhp and sequential I'll take the moral victory if I don't get lapped. lol
IIRC the old Ford KA valve is the same, but cable activated so you wouldnt have had to make anything, and keep your garage jewlery title lol
When I made the heater box for the VX220, I put a VW T25 valve in parallel to the matrix so when fully open it was easier for the water to flow through the valve, and vice versa. More or less worked but still had slightly warm air when open
That was my original idea, just to add a parallel valve but another guy I know has this aswell and like you say it still blew a little hot air when set to "cold"Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart
This is the neatest solution I could find!! I didn't know the KA had a cable valve, that is frustrating.
It'll be plenty close enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain